I am trying to clean up my engine bay and one of the biggest eye sores is my rusty brake master cylinder and old brake lines. I am interested in running full -3 AN stainless lines all the way from the master cylinder to the caliper. nI have a few questions.

What are the sizes of fittings I will need to make the stainless lines to the caliper? I am looking to use male -> male adapters to the -3 AN hose ends

They are the same size for the master cylinder right?

Should I go with an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve?

What is the ID of the stock lines?

I am thinking about leaving the hard line from the stock prop valve to the rear of the car. Problem?

Any other comments/concerns are appreciated.

 

It wont matter what size you make the lines as it doesn't flow, its a pneumatic system. its more important that the lines and all fittings are pressure rated to suit. you could use -8an if you wanted, your system would just hold a **** load of fluid.

for me I used -4an for clutch (which if I do my brakes I would do something similar)

Leave the stock proportioning valve and go from there..

 

thanks. do you know the size of the fittings for the master/prop/clutch slave/calipers?

 

All the hydraulic fittings- calipers, master cylinder and prop valve- are 10mm x 1.00.

I can see the attraction of this idea- it could be made to look very cool and would eliminate some fittings but wonder about the expansion of such a long run of soft tubing.
Whether it'd be enough to notice at the pedal, I don't know.

 

thanks. i am looking at running the teflon-lined speed-flex hose from earls.

Earl's Speed-Flex™ Brake Hose

 

which fitting would i use? or does it matter? something else?

inverted flare: JEGS Performance Products 100765 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters

bubble flare: JEGS Performance Products 100769 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters

 

Being fully stainless should keep it from expanding. Wouldn't worry too much for a road car.

 

Common misunderstanding.
The stainless outer mesh protects the inner teflon sleeve but does nothing structurally.
In other words, if the inner sleeve expands, the stainless will do zip to contain it.

To the OP:
Japanese cars use the inverted flare, Europeans use the bubble flare.

 

^Then why does everyone use stainless braided lines (at each wheel well off the hardline to the caliper)? Or is it coincidence that every stainless upgraded line has teflon inside?

 

I don't know why "everybody" uses braided lines but I can tell you why I did...they're cheaper than OEM rubber hoses and available in a variety of lengths and fitting options.
I wanted to eliminate the extra hardline that the 4-piston caliper uses and have a banjo rather than screw in end fitting.
Used generic Russel lines that cost @$20 apiece.
Not sure what you mean about "coincidence" but yes, all braided lines use a teflon inner hose.

The stainless outer sleeve is intended as a more abrasion resistant cover than the original all rubber hose, which it probably is.

 

I ran all -3 ss teflon lines can't help with he sizes but u can find it on here that's how I got mine

 

thanks

 

oops, left something out in the beginning. I meant as far as everyone who "upgrades" goes for stainless. Then again going from rubber to anything is kind of an upgrade...
I was under the impression/told to go with it because stainless line doesn't expand. But there is more to the stainless upgrade than the braiding. Now that I think of it, something braided has room to expand in it's nature, and that wouldn't make much sense. Thinking chinese finger trap now... My mind is wandering...

Boy do I feel stoopid!

 

Idk why -4 is nessisary.. all the fittings are the same size. I just used a crush washer under my fittings. Also get a set of earls ezbleeds they're pretty conveinient I can take a pic of the fitting tomorrow

 

This, I ran -4an on my friends hillclimb only rx7 with good results, good pedal feel and not to horrible on the wallet

 

Going from 20 year old rubber hose to anything is a more accurate way to put it..
I'll bet I could replace your stainless lines with new OEM rubber hose and you couldn't tell the difference.
Of course it expands, the question is "how much"?
Answer: Less than the old rubber hose but more than a steel hardline.

More pertinent question: "Can I feel the difference"?

 

I ran nicop lines, impossible to get straight, but cheap rust free and direct replacement.

 

This may sound like more labor than cost of parts but have you considered re-routing the brake hard lines? Brake line tucking parts can be had at your local autoparts store. I'm getting to that point in my fc project where I'm going to try and run my lines behind the firewall while the dash is out.

 

good idea about the crush washer. i wasnt sure if that would be necessary.

a big reason is i really dont want to deal with bending and flaring brake lines.

 

I'd like to see that.

 

Do you have a estimated price range in parts your looking at for this project?

 

I started a build thread but needed some reserved post deleted from a mod but hasn't happened yet so in the next couple weeks I'll just create a new build thread.

 

You can buy pre-flared lines w/ fittings at most auto parts emporiums for next to nothing.
I just redid my front brake hardlines for under $15.

Bending these lines is dead simple.

BTW, you only use crush washers on banjo fittings.

 

i am thinking it will cost between $200-$300, speed bleeders included

thanks. i didnt ever recall seeing a crush washer on a non-banjo fitting before but wasnt sure.

 

Also think about installing a line lock if going thru the troubles of the braided.. Price of everything doesnt compair to fuel stuff lol
With the left over line i was also abled to run my clutch line from master to slave to eliminate all the hard lines in the bay.