Full stainless brake lines
12-11-12, 06:45 PM
#1
Full stainless brake lines
I am trying to clean up my engine bay and one of the biggest eye sores is my rusty brake master cylinder and old brake lines. I am interested in running full -3 AN stainless lines all the way from the master cylinder to the caliper. nI have a few questions.
What are the sizes of fittings I will need to make the stainless lines to the caliper? I am looking to use male -> male adapters to the -3 AN hose ends
They are the same size for the master cylinder right?
Should I go with an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve?
What is the ID of the stock lines?
I am thinking about leaving the hard line from the stock prop valve to the rear of the car. Problem?
Any other comments/concerns are appreciated.
What are the sizes of fittings I will need to make the stainless lines to the caliper? I am looking to use male -> male adapters to the -3 AN hose ends
They are the same size for the master cylinder right?
Should I go with an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve?
What is the ID of the stock lines?
I am thinking about leaving the hard line from the stock prop valve to the rear of the car. Problem?
Any other comments/concerns are appreciated.
Last edited by 87 t-66; 12-11-12 at 07:14 PM.
12-11-12, 07:29 PM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
It wont matter what size you make the lines as it doesn't flow, its a pneumatic system. its more important that the lines and all fittings are pressure rated to suit. you could use -8an if you wanted, your system would just hold a **** load of fluid.
for me I used -4an for clutch (which if I do my brakes I would do something similar)
Leave the stock proportioning valve and go from there..
for me I used -4an for clutch (which if I do my brakes I would do something similar)
Leave the stock proportioning valve and go from there..
12-11-12, 07:41 PM
#4
All the hydraulic fittings- calipers, master cylinder and prop valve- are 10mm x 1.00.
I can see the attraction of this idea- it could be made to look very cool and would eliminate some fittings but wonder about the expansion of such a long run of soft tubing.
Whether it'd be enough to notice at the pedal, I don't know.
I can see the attraction of this idea- it could be made to look very cool and would eliminate some fittings but wonder about the expansion of such a long run of soft tubing.
Whether it'd be enough to notice at the pedal, I don't know.
12-11-12, 08:02 PM
#6
which fitting would i use? or does it matter? something else?
inverted flare: JEGS Performance Products 100765 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters
bubble flare: JEGS Performance Products 100769 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters
inverted flare: JEGS Performance Products 100765 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters
bubble flare: JEGS Performance Products 100769 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters
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12-11-12, 08:08 PM
#8
Common misunderstanding.
The stainless outer mesh protects the inner teflon sleeve but does nothing structurally.
In other words, if the inner sleeve expands, the stainless will do zip to contain it.
To the OP:
Japanese cars use the inverted flare, Europeans use the bubble flare.
The stainless outer mesh protects the inner teflon sleeve but does nothing structurally.
In other words, if the inner sleeve expands, the stainless will do zip to contain it.
To the OP:
Japanese cars use the inverted flare, Europeans use the bubble flare.
12-11-12, 08:44 PM
#10
I don't know why "everybody" uses braided lines but I can tell you why I did...they're cheaper than OEM rubber hoses and available in a variety of lengths and fitting options.
I wanted to eliminate the extra hardline that the 4-piston caliper uses and have a banjo rather than screw in end fitting.
Used generic Russel lines that cost @$20 apiece.
Not sure what you mean about "coincidence" but yes, all braided lines use a teflon inner hose.
The stainless outer sleeve is intended as a more abrasion resistant cover than the original all rubber hose, which it probably is.
I wanted to eliminate the extra hardline that the 4-piston caliper uses and have a banjo rather than screw in end fitting.
Used generic Russel lines that cost @$20 apiece.
Not sure what you mean about "coincidence" but yes, all braided lines use a teflon inner hose.
The stainless outer sleeve is intended as a more abrasion resistant cover than the original all rubber hose, which it probably is.
12-11-12, 08:54 PM
#13
oops, left something out in the beginning. I meant as far as everyone who "upgrades" goes for stainless. Then again going from rubber to anything is kind of an upgrade...
I was under the impression/told to go with it because stainless line doesn't expand. But there is more to the stainless upgrade than the braiding. Now that I think of it, something braided has room to expand in it's nature, and that wouldn't make much sense. Thinking chinese finger trap now... My mind is wandering...
Boy do I feel stoopid!
I was under the impression/told to go with it because stainless line doesn't expand. But there is more to the stainless upgrade than the braiding. Now that I think of it, something braided has room to expand in it's nature, and that wouldn't make much sense. Thinking chinese finger trap now... My mind is wandering...
Boy do I feel stoopid!
12-11-12, 08:57 PM
#14
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Idk why -4 is nessisary.. all the fittings are the same size. I just used a crush washer under my fittings. Also get a set of earls ezbleeds they're pretty conveinient I can take a pic of the fitting tomorrow
12-11-12, 08:57 PM
#15
It wont matter what size you make the lines as it doesn't flow, its a pneumatic system. its more important that the lines and all fittings are pressure rated to suit. you could use -8an if you wanted, your system would just hold a **** load of fluid.
for me I used -4an for clutch (which if I do my brakes I would do something similar)
Leave the stock proportioning valve and go from there..
for me I used -4an for clutch (which if I do my brakes I would do something similar)
Leave the stock proportioning valve and go from there..
12-11-12, 09:13 PM
#16
Going from 20 year old rubber hose to anything is a more accurate way to put it..
I'll bet I could replace your stainless lines with new OEM rubber hose and you couldn't tell the difference.
Of course it expands, the question is "how much"?
Answer: Less than the old rubber hose but more than a steel hardline.
More pertinent question: "Can I feel the difference"?
I'll bet I could replace your stainless lines with new OEM rubber hose and you couldn't tell the difference.
Answer: Less than the old rubber hose but more than a steel hardline.
More pertinent question: "Can I feel the difference"?
12-12-12, 12:33 AM
#18
This may sound like more labor than cost of parts but have you considered re-routing the brake hard lines? Brake line tucking parts can be had at your local autoparts store. I'm getting to that point in my fc project where I'm going to try and run my lines behind the firewall while the dash is out.
12-12-12, 06:25 AM
#19
This may sound like more labor than cost of parts but have you considered re-routing the brake hard lines? Brake line tucking parts can be had at your local autoparts store. I'm getting to that point in my fc project where I'm going to try and run my lines behind the firewall while the dash is out.
12-12-12, 06:43 PM
#25
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Also think about installing a line lock if going thru the troubles of the braided.. Price of everything doesnt compair to fuel stuff lol
With the left over line i was also abled to run my clutch line from master to slave to eliminate all the hard lines in the bay.
With the left over line i was also abled to run my clutch line from master to slave to eliminate all the hard lines in the bay.