full on rebuild in progress, 15,000 2 spend what to do???
#1
full on rebuild in progress, 15,000 2 spend what to do???
alright well for starters i find myself in a jam, i just put my 380whp gtp into a highway wall, which leaves me with a alright settelment check, a bitchy girlfriend and an 89 non turbo fc,
my goal set out for this car is 400-500whp, which is upwards of impossiable without a turbo or any kind of non rotory big block power house.
im thinking i can prep my 13b for a turbo, the motors currently pulled, and ive confirmed why i was getting 0's across the board for compression along rotor 2, all the seals where gone and the d bag that had it before me hooked up the trailing coilpack to one rotor and leading to the other, which i assume caused this among other things.
but aside from this, i understand that the turbo 13b's have a very different air intake system (aside from being turbo), and lower compersion rotors with 3mm apex seals, ive been told that id be running into a hugh headake just slaping the brand new hks 60tr turbo set up ive got laying around on it.
so what is the best choice (and most cost efficent)
-get a blown 13b turbo and rebuild it with a singel 60tr turbo
-bore out the n/a rotors for 3mm seals and use the higher compression as an advantage, and 60tr singel turbo
my only worry is if the n/a's intake system can handel boost,
cuz im not exactualy shure how different the to motors are?
lets not for get i still gotta do full front end,coilovers, rear axle, trans, and interior.
so i gotta try to get most of all this done with 15000, not to mention the best stand alone ecu they offer to get the best tune.
at least until i get more cash.
guys help me out i need it
my goal set out for this car is 400-500whp, which is upwards of impossiable without a turbo or any kind of non rotory big block power house.
im thinking i can prep my 13b for a turbo, the motors currently pulled, and ive confirmed why i was getting 0's across the board for compression along rotor 2, all the seals where gone and the d bag that had it before me hooked up the trailing coilpack to one rotor and leading to the other, which i assume caused this among other things.
but aside from this, i understand that the turbo 13b's have a very different air intake system (aside from being turbo), and lower compersion rotors with 3mm apex seals, ive been told that id be running into a hugh headake just slaping the brand new hks 60tr turbo set up ive got laying around on it.
so what is the best choice (and most cost efficent)
-get a blown 13b turbo and rebuild it with a singel 60tr turbo
-bore out the n/a rotors for 3mm seals and use the higher compression as an advantage, and 60tr singel turbo
my only worry is if the n/a's intake system can handel boost,
cuz im not exactualy shure how different the to motors are?
lets not for get i still gotta do full front end,coilovers, rear axle, trans, and interior.
so i gotta try to get most of all this done with 15000, not to mention the best stand alone ecu they offer to get the best tune.
at least until i get more cash.
guys help me out i need it
#3
dude you can build one helluva FC with 15,000
it will cost you more money and in the end much more work hours to make your N/a engine turbo - probably most 13bt's you find will be "blown" in some way or another so in my own quick estimates...
jdm 13bt engine + transmission +shipping = roughly 1,200 bucks
engine rebuild = roughly 1,000 if you do it yourself - 2 grand if a shop does it for you
fmic = 700 bucks
coilovers and suspension ill say 1500 - 2000 depending on what you do maybe more
standalone ecu = i want to say at least 2 grand???
and im not going to say what all the other **** may cost but honestly with 15,000 i can DEFINANTLY see 350 to 400 rwhp happenin
GOOD LUCK with your project i hope i have been somewhat helpful
it will cost you more money and in the end much more work hours to make your N/a engine turbo - probably most 13bt's you find will be "blown" in some way or another so in my own quick estimates...
jdm 13bt engine + transmission +shipping = roughly 1,200 bucks
engine rebuild = roughly 1,000 if you do it yourself - 2 grand if a shop does it for you
fmic = 700 bucks
coilovers and suspension ill say 1500 - 2000 depending on what you do maybe more
standalone ecu = i want to say at least 2 grand???
and im not going to say what all the other **** may cost but honestly with 15,000 i can DEFINANTLY see 350 to 400 rwhp happenin
GOOD LUCK with your project i hope i have been somewhat helpful
#4
heres some links you may find helpful:
2nd gen projects thread: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=608165
Tiger Japanese (i have found this to be cheapest place to find a jdm t2 engine and shipped and the do compression testing with a 30 day start up warrenty) :
https://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.php
FC3S Pro: http://fc3spro.com/sitemap.html
and of cOURSE rotary ressurection : http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html
2nd gen projects thread: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=608165
Tiger Japanese (i have found this to be cheapest place to find a jdm t2 engine and shipped and the do compression testing with a 30 day start up warrenty) :
https://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.php
FC3S Pro: http://fc3spro.com/sitemap.html
and of cOURSE rotary ressurection : http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html
#5
Passing life by
Where did you get this fallus information about rotary engines? But its still ok we all get bad intell at times and 15k is right around what it should take for a shop to properly perform a single turbo conversion. With a new motor might actually be more. My single turbo price for the 500whp+ range sits at 10k plus labor no motor work.
And no they did not have 3mm seals nor should you ever consider putting them in.
ud be best off starting from nothing and having your builder just piece a new motor together.
Don't go to crazy on the EMS setup. I cold drop 10k just on a motec EMS setup without blinking. Want to make it crazy talk about 6 staged injectors on a custom mani running a motec or E11v2. I would suggest just buying an E8 and go from there sometimes the crazy best is far to capable for what you really need. 500whp is an easy number with the right setup but difficult to do reliably on pump.
And no they did not have 3mm seals nor should you ever consider putting them in.
ud be best off starting from nothing and having your builder just piece a new motor together.
Don't go to crazy on the EMS setup. I cold drop 10k just on a motec EMS setup without blinking. Want to make it crazy talk about 6 staged injectors on a custom mani running a motec or E11v2. I would suggest just buying an E8 and go from there sometimes the crazy best is far to capable for what you really need. 500whp is an easy number with the right setup but difficult to do reliably on pump.
Last edited by iceblue; 05-27-07 at 04:58 PM.
#6
thanks for your help, sence i do all my own whench work, it will keep a relitive cost down.
ill look into the motor site for a 13bt, cuz it seems like my best bet, i can fab my own single turbo mani, and as far as stand alone goes what system would you all reccomend??
but time to fine a blown 13bt and go from there.
ill keep you guys posted throughtout my whole rebuild and restoration,
ill get pics up whenever, but with a few more pointers and time ferrari owners will be turning there heads to look at my car.
not to be cocky or ne thing but theres something about haveing a ride that will smoke another rich mid life crisis banker, for 1/12 the cost, and a hell of alot more style.
ill look into the motor site for a 13bt, cuz it seems like my best bet, i can fab my own single turbo mani, and as far as stand alone goes what system would you all reccomend??
but time to fine a blown 13bt and go from there.
ill keep you guys posted throughtout my whole rebuild and restoration,
ill get pics up whenever, but with a few more pointers and time ferrari owners will be turning there heads to look at my car.
not to be cocky or ne thing but theres something about haveing a ride that will smoke another rich mid life crisis banker, for 1/12 the cost, and a hell of alot more style.
#7
anyway there are a ton of guys on these forums who are WAAAY more knowledgeable than me that can give you some for real tech help
and as for ecu... haltech is good stuff
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#9
Passing life by
You will never beat a Ferrari or produce a comparable car with 20grand and a FC no matter what way you look at it. The car is betor built race ready from day one. So don't hang onto that notion very tightly, theres a reason they cost 100k 250k 600k and an FC is found in someones yard for 200$. Theres a reason a SCCA cup RX8 chassis cost 250k$ and a new rx8 put together from the dealer cost 25k
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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where in MI are you? i can hook you up with lots of fc goodies. im in royal oak,mi 48073 if you want to map quest it. as far as tuning theres not much, how ever in ohio you have more options. with a base tune you could drive in and get tuned and be back for dinner. if you live near me. theres a great junk yard with lots of rx 7 parts new and used. they also build 7's if you need. let me know what i can do for you
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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id go jdm s5. defenately streetported at LEAST. im running a mcrotech lt8. suits my needs. for now atleast. but im sure it will hold up to 400-450 hp.
are you planning on runnin pump gas? alky injection?
greddy is pretty good for front mounts. thats about all i can think of for now.
are you planning on runnin pump gas? alky injection?
greddy is pretty good for front mounts. thats about all i can think of for now.
#15
ok well im assumeing that the 13b-re will bolt directly up 2 my fc's motor mounts with no trouble??
and i dont know what 2 think about the tri-rotor 20-b, it sounds like a hell of a swap, but really what has to be done to get it to link up w/o lots of trouble, does it use the same mounts, and how will the drive shaft match up w/ the trans??
im more prone to the 13b-re cuz 15g's is all i got to get this whole car off the ground and looking pretty for now.
and i cant be without a car for much longer, its killing me, will it bolt up?
and i dont know what 2 think about the tri-rotor 20-b, it sounds like a hell of a swap, but really what has to be done to get it to link up w/o lots of trouble, does it use the same mounts, and how will the drive shaft match up w/ the trans??
im more prone to the 13b-re cuz 15g's is all i got to get this whole car off the ground and looking pretty for now.
and i cant be without a car for much longer, its killing me, will it bolt up?
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