fuel relay cuts off after 10 seconds and I don't know why
#1
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fuel relay cuts off after 10 seconds and I don't know why
Tomorrow I'm going to start bringing my new TII back to sound running order and before I start tearing into everything and finding out more problems I wanted to gather some ideas on the immediate needs.
After about 10 seconds when the car is started, the fuel pump relay clicks off and the car dies. Right now the car runs because of some MacGuyver jumpering of the fuel pump, but I'd rather have everything back to normal before I start turning this car into a beast like my last
So if anyone has any ideas, let me know.
Also, is it real bad to drive around a turboII without a turbo hood?
Thanks!
.[ matt ford. IM:XimbueX
.[ 88 GXL. -> Modded [to death (literally)]
.[ 87 TurboII -> Fresh Canvas
.[ Mazda Sports Car Club of NC http://www.msccnc.org
After about 10 seconds when the car is started, the fuel pump relay clicks off and the car dies. Right now the car runs because of some MacGuyver jumpering of the fuel pump, but I'd rather have everything back to normal before I start turning this car into a beast like my last
So if anyone has any ideas, let me know.
Also, is it real bad to drive around a turboII without a turbo hood?
Thanks!
.[ matt ford. IM:XimbueX
.[ 88 GXL. -> Modded [to death (literally)]
.[ 87 TurboII -> Fresh Canvas
.[ Mazda Sports Car Club of NC http://www.msccnc.org
#2
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Quick queation. Are you calling the CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY located under the dash and next to the steering wheel column *fuel pump relay*? If thats so then I suggest the ground for that relay is being lost. It(the ground) comes from the air flow meter, specificaly the micro sw inside opened and closed by the flapper door. If the above is true, then try jumpering the *fuel pump circuit terminal * on the r/h strut tower. That should bypass the flapper door. If the system works good then, then the afm would be suspect, at leat the sw inside that is operated by the flapper. If indeed you meant the fuel pump relay located near the r/h front bumper....well it would'nt matter if it falls out or pulls in unless the resistor inside has failed.
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if the circuit opening relay is what clicks, then yes that is what I mean. I tested it, and it tests fine, I've replaced the relay resistors under the airbox, w/ no change.
I think it may be the AFM as well; I tested it and the resistance is supposed to be infinite when the door is closed, and zero when it is always open, but it is always infinite, however I'm not sure how that would affect the fuel pump turning off right after startup like it does.
The car has a host of other problems, but I'm planning on replacing the wiring harness, ECU, AFM, and some other things. Right now I'm just trying to gether as much info as possible as to what all I need to replace and check to get the car running right.
I think it may be the AFM as well; I tested it and the resistance is supposed to be infinite when the door is closed, and zero when it is always open, but it is always infinite, however I'm not sure how that would affect the fuel pump turning off right after startup like it does.
The car has a host of other problems, but I'm planning on replacing the wiring harness, ECU, AFM, and some other things. Right now I'm just trying to gether as much info as possible as to what all I need to replace and check to get the car running right.
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Yes, it sounds like the afm switch is bad. If you ohm out the two wires on the end, I forget which end right now, and you don't have continuity, then the things bad. But don't sweat it. Work around it. Jumper that yellow in color, two wire, plug that hangs out close to the boost sensor. Just jumper the two wire with a piece of wire. With the key in the on pos you should hear a click when you do this. Then start the car and see if it runs for longer than ten seconds. One wire on that connector is pure black and the other brown(on a 86 or 87 anyway. Write back and tell us if that worked. Please. P.S that plug is used to pressurize your fuel rails and is normally used only for leak checking the injectors.
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We jumpered something back near the fuel pump to try to drive it home, and it runs like that. I can hear the relay click off, but the car still goes. Unfortunately that only lasted for 30 miles, then the car started to overheat, so its definitley going to be a project. I'm planning on replacing the wiring harness and the AFM and hopefully that will solve the fuel problem and a couple others.
thanks,
.matt ford.
.87 TII building up.
thanks,
.matt ford.
.87 TII building up.
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