Druken

Engine: 91 13B n/a

When I connect the (+) and (-) to the battery, my fuel pump turns on and stays on until I disconnect the (-). Thing is I've had this problem before but because the car has been sitting for awhile I forgot how I fixed it. Before I got it so that my fuel pump would turn on when I have the key in the 'ON' position in the ignition. Now, the key doesn't even have to be in the ignition for the pump to turn on.

I've noticed that a lot of the components that are suppose to turn on after the car starts stays on as well. It seems as if power is bypassing the ignition.


How do I fix this?

HAILERS

Connect the battery up. You say the fuel pump runs without the key being ON. So.........now reach over and pull the small plug off the alternator and see if the pump stops running when you do that.

Druken

What does this do? Wouldn't I need it plugged in?

initial D is REAL!

So the fuel pump runs as long as the batt is connected?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Just do what hailers said. It's a check to see if the alternator internals are bad and causing your symptoms.

HAILERS

Nah. You just go out to the car and put the battery cables on the battery. YOU said this causes the fuel pump to run , even if the key is out of the ignition. So you reach over there and pull that small plug off the alternator and see if the pump stops or not. Your seeing if the alternator is backfeeding the system ...or Not.

Because you didn't mention it, I assume the wiring is stock and hasn't been fiddle fucked up.

Druken

Hmm, now that makes sense. I'll give that a shot.

Druken

So I checked to see if the alternator is backfeeding, and it doesn't seem like it is. I first tried with the plug still in the alternator, connect the battery, disconnected the plug and still it runs. Then I tried disconnecting the plug, connect the battery, and still it runs. So I think we can rule the alternator out.

I didn't mess with any of the wiring after I got it fixed awhile back, only to disconnect everything from the engine so that I can change the flywheel,clutch,PP. I connected everything that I had connected and yet I receive the same problem.

Is there any other option? I would like to get it running again, but not if the fuel is going to stay active and circulate while the car is parked and off.

PS. "Initial D is Real" Yeah, the fuel pump will stay running as long as the battery is connected.

HAILERS

Ok. Do you have any lights in the interior on with the key out?????? It sounds like a ignition switch problem IF nobody in the past has rigged a fuel cut switch to kill the fuel pump. That ring a bell?/?????? Fuel cut switch????????

IF no other lights are on in the interior with the key out, then I'd say someone has put a fuel cut switch in and imho, rigged it wrong.

The way a normal car works, is voltage is sent from the ignition switch to the ENGINE fuse which in turn does two things. One it pulls in the MAIN RELAY and TWO it powers the Circuit Opening Relay which feeds power to the fuel pump. BUT that relay only feeds the fuel pump if the key is HELD to Start OR the fuel pump check connector in the engine bay is jumpered with the key to ON, or the vane of the afm is pushed aft with the key to ON.

From that I'd say it's a Fue Cut Switch installed not quite right and that switch needs to be flipped to the OTHER direction.

If it were a bad ignition switch, I'd expect to see some lights on in the interior as soom as you put the battery cables on the battery.

Druken

Yeah, my tach would read like a volt meter, and the idiot lights would turn on and stay on.

I was thinking it would be an ignition switch problem too but I don't really know where to start to diagnose it.

I did make a fuel cut switch, with an inline fusible link, just in case since I now run an external fuel pump. I have to keep it in the "OFF" position while the battery is connected so that it doesn't turn on and keep pumping. But the weird thing is, I had it working before so that I could keep the switch in the "ON" position and the pump would only work when the key is in the 'ON' position.

HAILERS

Well, remove that inline fuse and see if the problem still exists or not. I figure the pump won't pump with that fuse out, but go look and see if those lights are still on in the interior. I'm talking with the inline fuse pulled and the key out of the ignition and battery connected up.

Druken

Well, I am assuming that the fuel pump wont work at all since I connected the switch and inline fuse to the actual fuel pump wire. So if there is no fuse there to complete the circuit the fuel pump wont work.

But, the lights in the instrument clusters are still on and the tach is still reading as a volt meter. Could it really be that my ignition switch is broken now all of a sudden?

HAILERS

So the new fuel pump cut switch has no stock wiring in it? So that switch can't be the problem with the lights in the interior.

The tach acting like a voltmeter. Does not make sense to me. The tach works off the trail coil signal if memory serves. Off a yellow/blue wire coming off the trail coil assy if memory serves.

If the idiot lights are on.......well that power comes off the ignition switch alright, sorta.

On a series four the igniton switch is fed from pure black wire at one of the igniton switch connectors. The ignition switch connectors are about a foot below and aft of the igniton switch. Maybe three or four connectors there. PUll the pure black wire apart there and see if the lights go off.

On a series four car, the idiot lights are caused to come on IF one of the two wires on the alternators small connnector has a ground put on it BY the alternator (any time the alternator is not turning). So. If you pull that small plug apart on the alternator, do the idiot lights go off?

Druken

Freaking aye. I figured it out.

Before I post what the problem is, I would like to thank HAILERS for all your help. I've been following up with your posts, with timing/etc. Good guy to listen to.

Well anyways, apparently when I installed the engine back in, I made the mistake of connecting these 2 sets bullet connectors with the wrong connectors. I made the proper connection and everything is back to normal. Geez.... I'm an idiot. There goes to show you guys, at least TRIPLE CHECK YOUR WORK!

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

I was gonna say check the circuit opening relay, but good thing it wasn't a big problem.