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iTrader: (2)

I just did the fuel pump rewire writeup from 1300cc.com, and i check the fuel pump voltage and it was 13.5-14volts. Is it possible the resistor went bad? which wires should i check because it looks like its bypassing it and just running full voltage all the time, instead of knocking it down to 9volts during cruise.

Icemark

or the 5th gear switch is disconnected

NZConvertible

Not very likely. Is this watching the fuel pump voltage while driving?

Double-check all your wiring. Here's my wiring schematic for the S4. S5's are basically the same except from some wire colour differences.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=48650

For S5's the colours are:

A, B, C: blue/red
D and F: blue/green
E: green/red
Fuel pump power: blue/green

If it's all okay check the operation of the factory relay as per the FSM's instructions.

According to the FSM the 5th gear switch is not an input for this system. The AFM, both air temp sensors, coolant thermosensor, CAS, TPS, neutral switch, clutch switch and ignition switch are, but not the 5th gear switch.

HAILERS

The Green/Red wire is what makes the relay pull in and govern whether you get 9v or 12v. It puts a Ground on the relay. The Green/Red comes from the ECU.

So, get a piece of wire and ground one end. Now jumper the fuel pump resistor relay and start the engine. Then insert the other end of the wire you grounded in back of the green/red wire at the relay (everything connected up, no plugs off). Now look at the voltage of the meter and see if the voltage dropped down or not. It should have.

IF the voltage dropped (and relay clicked) when you did that, then you have a non ground output on the green/red wire from the ECU. Not good.

Is there any chance that you have a non turbo boost/pressure sensor in this car? Might make a diff if you do.

Or another tack.......all the wires in the connectors can be removed. Usually by looking into the mating face of the plug and seeing a plastic cog/tongue that holds the wire terminal in the plug. You depress the plastic cog/tongue with a jewelers common screw driver while pulling on the wire. The wire now comes out of the plug.

So let's say you pulled the green/red wire out. Now start the engine and jumper the fuel pump check connector. Pump now runs. Monitor the voltage,. Should be 12vdc approx.

Now insert the green/red back into the plug. The relay should click and the voltage drop to approx 9vdc.

jpg attached of jewelers screwdriver

HAILERS

Are you measuring the voltage with the engine at idle?? Or just with the key to ON and the fuel pump check connector jumpered?

blimp

iTrader: (2)

yes this is the voltage measured when the car is on at idle.

blimp

iTrader: (2)

i'm still stumped!! I found out that i had E/A to 87 and B/F to the pump switched. I switched that and its still the same. Getting about 13.5volts to the pump. When i start the car i don't hear any clicks or anything turning on back there, besides the walbro whining like a ****. I have a feeling my fuel pump resistor is causing the problem. What are the specs for the the resistor/relay and which pins do i test?

Before when i first did the rewire and did a test drive i would hear the relay clicking off and on back there depending on how much gas i gave it. Now i don't even hear it click anymore. I just hear this loud rattling noise (resistor/relay)??? when i'm on the highway at full boost.

NZConvertible

Have you tested the factory relay yet? FSM page F2-53. Put power to pins C and D and makes sure the relay clicks.

blimp

iTrader: (2)

Alright i tested out the fuel pump relay/resistor, the ohm specs were fine and i put power to it and it was clicking. I also checked the radio shack relay ohm specs were fine and i put power to it and it clicked also. I checked if there was continuity from the the wires ran from the front of the car to the back and those were fine.
I'm thinking the radioshack relay is being switched on all the time pretty much just bypassing it totally. I was playing around with the relay, disconnected the on/off switch wire(85 on relay). The car would start to die obviously but i heard the relay clicking on/off when i would connect/disconnect it. No wonder why i wasn't hearing the relay clicking anymore, because it was switched(full voltage) immediately when i start the car. What would cause the the ecu to send a signal to the pump as its wot all the time?

NZConvertible

That could only occur if you wired it up wrong. The new relay sends power to the resistor/relay. The stock relay acts as a bypass around the resistor and is wired Normally Closed so that without a signal from the ECU the relay is closed and full voltage is sent to the pump.

The ECU provides a switched ground to the relay, so with the ignition on and the engine not running, the relay will be off and the G/R wire will have 12V on it. If you jumper the fuel pump check connector to run the pump you'll see it has 12V (full voltage) too. When the engine starts it should stay like stay for a few seconds then drop to 1-2V as the ECU switches the relay on to drop fuel pump voltage.

HAILERS

Maybe you have your Blue/Red and pure Blue wires crosssed up? Jpg of the original stock wiring attached with colors of the wires.