how do i remove the fuel pump in a 87 base ? do you have to drop the fuel tank ? what other methods have you used ? any tricks ? i need help since im removing mine and replacing tommorow in auto class.

 

You don't have to drop the tank. The fuel pump is accessible under the carpet in the back on the drivers side. There's really no easier way to access it.

 

ok , i also heard the bolts snap easily ?

 

They strip easily I would buy 8-10 new screws for it from Mazda, and try each one, if it starts to strip drill the heads off, and use Vise Grips to remove the remaining screw.

 

Pb blaster or wd-40 would help just let it soke for a little while. I had one that was a paon because of and it vice grips fixed that then the others I have never had a problem with.

 

if i do strip it or break the heads , would the fuel tank still be useable ? or would it be ruined ? or could i just drill out the part of it ? and use new screws just like he stated ?

 

You drill the heads off, and then pull the sending unit off, then twist each threaded section out with Vise Grips, they will come out, and install new pump, put sending unit back in, and use new screws.

 

Drilling them out would be better and cheaper than buying a new fuel tank. Drilling them out and replacing them won't hurt anything if that happened.

 

wait ? do i need to replace the sending unit too ? because i was talking about the fuel pump ( sorry im a noob)

 

I feel like Ted...

NO!

 

Remove screws from the cover (silver thing on the left side of the picture).



Remove little screws from the fuel sending unit, I had to spray the screws down before I tried to remove them.





Then remove the lines and make sure you mark which one is the return and so forth.

Take out the sending unit.

The long cydrincal metal thing is the fuel pump. Pretty self explainitory to remove. Just make sure it looks the new pump looks the same as the old one.



Put everything back together the way it came and enjoy life.

 

thank you

 

How is spraying penetrant on a blind hole with a screw head going to do anything? The problem is here in Canada they rust and the sending unit, and screw head rust together. So you have drill them out.

 

I live in Northren Minnesota and my car was driven in winters up here. Before that it started in Maryland. So for the last part of the cars life it has been in a harsher climate.

I sprayed it in so I could get the screwdriver in the screw easier (instead of stripping it out with my phillips). Also I wanted to break away any gunk next to the screws. I didn't have to drill anything and it went pretty flawless for the first time of it being off in 21 years.

I didn't have to drill anything. So you don't HAVE to drill them out, but some cases you do.

That and I also like to clean. Spraying penetrat in there was the first start of the process.

 

I never said you had to drill them off, I said if they start to strip, you're screwed, and they should be drilled out. To clean the head anything would work really, the key is to keep constant pressure on the screw. I have had to drill at least 3-4 screws per tank of the 15 sending units I have removed. I said to get them from Mazda because the last thing you want to do Is drill them out, and not have a replacement, I always prepare for the worst case scenario.

 

Ah I think we had a lapse in communication. I thought you didn't like my advice which seemed straight forward.

I concur, I rather be safe then sorry.

My bad yo.

 

No it's not bad advise, it just it won't do anything to lube it, a wire wheel could have done the same thing.

I'm not trying to be a dick either, but I think saying that would give someone with this level of a mechanical skill set a false sense of it working.

Now back to the regular scheduled programing.

 

Penetrant might work because the problem isn't the treads in the blind hole, it's where the screw head has corroded to the cover plate and that's exactly the sort of creep that these products are supposed to be capable of.

BTW, when you do finally get the screws out- no matter how you managed to do it- don't be an idiot and replace them with more of the same silly Phillips heads that caused the problem to begin with.
Use Allens or hex head bolts and liberally apply anti-seize to the threads and the underside of the bolt head so the problem doesn't reoccur.

 

hey just got back from picking up a fuel pump from Renns , i dont think i need the fuel level sender connected to the fuel pump ? and it says its from a 86 will it still fit my 87 ?

 

I guess for now on I'll leave all the advice up to you for now on.

Disregard my previous posts.

 

UPDATE: hey i found out my fuel pump works but is not getting power from the harness ( not the one connected to the body the one that goes from the top of the fuel tank to the body harness ? ( the blue wrapped one ) . can the wires be replace seperatly ? or do i need a whole new sending unit ? please i need a awnser fast ....

 

i cant seem to find a fuel pump sending unit .... so i was wondering if i cant snip the wires on the top and just put new bolts in a different area on the lid ? ( but leave the old ones there to fill the hole ? )would it work ?