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Fuel pump not working

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Old 07-20-10, 06:32 PM
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Fuel pump not working

Car is a 1990 na. Ran last year until tps went bad.

Just replaced the tps with a working one, went to start car, and "brbrrrrbrrrr" (the sound of cranking). It would not start.

Checked all egi related fuses (EGI, room, engine) to find each in perfect working order.

Went back to fuel pump to find only five volts with the key on the ON position. Fuel pump seems to NOT be getting appropriate voltage.

.... so after checking the resistance of my fuel pump resister relay found

.................................................. ............. SHOULD BE
a-b = .5 ohms...........................................0 ohms
c-d= 81.1 ohms.......................................... 60-92 ohms
e-f = 1.3 ohms ............................................. .70-.94 ohms

Is this enough "out of spec" to give the fuel pump a low voltage reading?

I am currently searcing for a link to the jumper connector that makes the fuel pump kick on. Havent found it yet.

Also when i checked terminal voltage at this same fuel pump resistor relay, terminal "fc", which should have 12v, has none.

Please suggest anything that you think will help.

Thanks in advance,

john ny
Old 07-20-10, 06:56 PM
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You shouldn't see any voltage with the key just to on unless you jumper the green test connector. If you still don't see any voltage at the pump with the green test connector jumpered then you need to check the circuit opening relay under the dash around the steering column.
Old 07-20-10, 10:49 PM
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Ok i will definately get on that tomorrow.

Thanks.

Could someone please post a picture of the green test connector just so i am sure.

john ny
Old 07-21-10, 07:54 PM
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http://img338.imageshack.us/i/circui...relaypict.png/

(Image thanks to satch.)

This is the circuit opening relay near the steering column, under the dash. You're looking for the green check connector though... I bet there's an image somewhere around here on the forum. Try searching for it.
Old 07-21-10, 08:06 PM
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If one is in need of jumpering the fuel check connector you can do the same thing at the Circuit Opening Relay by jumpering the Black (constant ground) wire to the Brown (not so constant ground wire). With the key to on the fuel pump will be provided w/power. I said Black and not Black/White, so B goes to Br.
Old 07-24-10, 01:11 PM
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About to jump the black to ground on the circuit opening relay by steering column.....after battery is finished charging.



Oddly that five volts at the fuel pump is now about 3.1 (assuming battery needs to be charged) but tested the power to the fuel pump during CRANKING and is between 16 and 18!

These readings are with the above connector jumpered and with it not jumpered. Tried it both ways, same readings.

So.. another thread that said this is the appropriate connection (not always green i guess), is either incorrect, or i have a bad fuel pump.

An average of 17 volts should more than power that thing at crank.

Or a resistor is bad somewhere which spiked the voltage too much and fried the pump.

Or there is an inline resistor to the pump after the rear speaker area connection which reduces the voltage.

Or the pump likes the 17 volts and is just bad.

When battery is charged i will jump both (under dash and previously jumped yellow connection) and take more readings.

Does anyone else have any ideas, as well?

Or can anyone confirm that this is enough data to determine fuel pump is shot?

Thanks again,

John ny
Old 07-24-10, 01:34 PM
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When the battery is properly charged just park it near the fuel pump and connect the positive post of the battery to the wire that supplies voltage to the fuel pump and the negative battery post to the fuel pump ground and your pump ought to pump! Disconnect the harness to the pump and use the wires that are part of the fuel pump harness to run your test.

Also, with the proper wires jumpered the key would only need to be turned to on and not start to get the pump working and this is the purpose of the fuel check connector regardless of its color. The voltage should be equivalent to battery voltage and voltage over 15 I think would be a no no!
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