mrpoopie

iTrader: (1)

I finally bought me a fuel pressure tester, and I have it connected between the fuel filter and the engine.

With the test connector jumped and the key in the on position, I get ~ 60 psi of pressure, but the second I turn the key to the off position, I have no pressure in the fuel line.

Would this indicate a bad fuel pump?

I doubt it would be leaking injectors since I don't think injectors would dump that much fuel into my engine, and I don't have have any flooding symptoms.

I do however have hot start issues at times where I have to crank a few times in a row to get the car to start, and sometimes have to start the car twice twice cold to keep it running.

My car does rather low at times (~250-350) rpm, but also idles at ~750rpms as well.

Any ideas?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

need more details on your setup

HAILERS2

IF it were a stock RX pump and nothing out of the ordiary..............I'd say the check valve INSIDE the fuel pump is not acting like a checkvalve. Like it's stuck or??? IF the pump is not a stk RX pump.......who knows.

Then again..........that probably would not cause a flooding problem imho in any way.

dbruesch

sounds like faulty equipment or you set it up the wrong way, but ¨what do i know lol¨

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

check theses

bad check valve in the fuel pump.

leaky fuel injectors. or its leaking externally.

mrpoopie

iTrader: (1)

oops forgot. its a stock fc na. afaik, it has a stock oem fuel pump.

mrpoopie

iTrader: (1)

Afaik, its a stock rx pump. i will take the pump out and check the check valve. i doubt it would cause a flooding condition, but i am trying to fix the hot start and low idle issue. i have a feeling that it has something to do with fuel.

HAILERS2

On a outside chance it might also be related to the FPR. The fuel should be trapped b/t the fuel pumps check valve and the FPR. My money is on the checkvalve in the fuel pump.

Low idle is probably related to the BAC being non functional/broken/disconnected/BAC transistor burnt out inside the ECU.

Take the two nuts that hold it on the engine off. Pull the BAC out where you can see its guts. HOLD the key to START and observe the opening inside the BAC. It should open and stay open if the key is HELD to START. To me that gives you a clue whether or not the transistor is good/bad inside the BAC.

Normal operation of the BAC is a 120hz duty cycle............but this observation of the BAC going full open or not is a clue of whether or not the thing is working or not. Usually a fully warmed up engine will cause the BAC to vibrate during idle. Vibrate at approx 120 hz give or take.

Next time the engine goes into a non start 'cause it's hot.............disconnect the START input signal to the ECU and try again. The car most probably will start normal 'cause the afm will now be used for fuel delivery in lieu of the INTERNAL START MAP of the ECU. In other words less fuel using the afm vs the internal *start fuel map* of the ECU. Much less fuel.

mrpoopie

iTrader: (1)

So it looks like the check valve is broken, and it looks like that is causing my erratic idle and possibly low idle issues. I am also thinking that the check valve is also causing hot start issues.

Here's a video of what's happening to the fuel pressure are idle:

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...3-19-10-36.mp4

I am going to find a inline check valve later today, and see if that does the trick.