Fuel pressure - Heat question:
#1
Fuel pressure - Heat question:
Story:
I'm curious why I haven't had any issues running my engine at over 120C on several occasions. (x5) S5-T2 JDM Block 20W50 Lol just tossing, no real reason AM gauge at highest point. (stock gauge wasn't maxed out for reference)
(gauges are higher just using as a reference) Highest points and aftermarket aluminum old as well
My question:
I had my fuel pressure increased to over stock (stock build). I've then encountered heat levels of silly portions again 100 for 2-5 minutes.
ISSUE: FPR set to 55PSI no issues - weak boost
Overheated around 100C
Pulled over turned it off dropped to around 85-90C
Adjust to -50 PSI then ran around operating temp of 82C
Can someone explain the science behind this question of fuel pressure to heat?
(255lph/FPR/stock injectors)
Cars always ran 3.0-4.0KPAx100 = 44PSI (cold day 70-80C)
Side-note:
Will change my fuel filter and inspect oil (CHANGED day before)
I'm curious why I haven't had any issues running my engine at over 120C on several occasions. (x5) S5-T2 JDM Block 20W50 Lol just tossing, no real reason AM gauge at highest point. (stock gauge wasn't maxed out for reference)
(gauges are higher just using as a reference) Highest points and aftermarket aluminum old as well
My question:
I had my fuel pressure increased to over stock (stock build). I've then encountered heat levels of silly portions again 100 for 2-5 minutes.
ISSUE: FPR set to 55PSI no issues - weak boost
Overheated around 100C
Pulled over turned it off dropped to around 85-90C
Adjust to -50 PSI then ran around operating temp of 82C
Can someone explain the science behind this question of fuel pressure to heat?
(255lph/FPR/stock injectors)
Cars always ran 3.0-4.0KPAx100 = 44PSI (cold day 70-80C)
Side-note:
Will change my fuel filter and inspect oil (CHANGED day before)
#4
I think my question will be different after I check into my gauges:
Good example my oil pressure is dropping and when my engine was hot the fuel pressure was spiking.
Should be the complete opposite:
FUEL
56 Psi idle and 70psi on boost...
If I compared these to stock guidelines I'm backwards.
OIL
21-35psi on my oil isn't correct either.
keeps dropping while I adjust the FPR I have no leaks and cannot figure out why It would be so low...
Update: I don't think oil pressure builds when ignition is on.... Backwards
Good example my oil pressure is dropping and when my engine was hot the fuel pressure was spiking.
Should be the complete opposite:
FUEL
56 Psi idle and 70psi on boost...
If I compared these to stock guidelines I'm backwards.
OIL
21-35psi on my oil isn't correct either.
keeps dropping while I adjust the FPR I have no leaks and cannot figure out why It would be so low...
Update: I don't think oil pressure builds when ignition is on.... Backwards
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-08-15 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Update
#5
Ok, so I figured everything out and oil pressure is ok at 40-70psi
*gauges backwards*
My fuel pressure is the issue : turn up over heats but it doesn't want to stay static my fuel pressure needle is jumping 5-10psi at around 29 - 38PSI idle for example consistent needle bouncing.
bad injector?
*gauges backwards*
My fuel pressure is the issue : turn up over heats but it doesn't want to stay static my fuel pressure needle is jumping 5-10psi at around 29 - 38PSI idle for example consistent needle bouncing.
bad injector?
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-08-15 at 02:02 PM. Reason: edt
#6
Let's get this more written out:
Stock S5 jdm block:
Issue: Heat
Cause: turbo/fuel?
Mods to fuel system:
1.255 pump < no issues
2.Cheap FPR < Mabye
3.Stock regulator removed.
My fuel economy is good: Maybe my dampener is wearing out but not leaking to my knowledge.
I'm replacing my FPR to-nite to fix any issues related to that part: I will also check the pulsation dampener. I just can't tell myself for overheating.
This all happened after I swapped stock turbos, but: this new one isn't smoking white and seems to boost fine.
Stock S5 jdm block:
Issue: Heat
Cause: turbo/fuel?
Mods to fuel system:
1.255 pump < no issues
2.Cheap FPR < Mabye
3.Stock regulator removed.
My fuel economy is good: Maybe my dampener is wearing out but not leaking to my knowledge.
I'm replacing my FPR to-nite to fix any issues related to that part: I will also check the pulsation dampener. I just can't tell myself for overheating.
This all happened after I swapped stock turbos, but: this new one isn't smoking white and seems to boost fine.
#7
SOLVED CLOSING:
ISSUE Previous owner ran fuel lines too short and cut under UIM - Pinching secondary fuel rail - Causing leaning out at higher rpms - poor boost and the bouncing needle of the fuel pressure.
Replaced : Fuel filter, FPR, Lines, Fittings
In all-was it bad Not so much, could it have been worse, yes. Did it kill my turbo by wearing it out, it sure did, did I almost kill my new one I just put on. No but eventually Id assume it would wear out.
Do others lack of knowledge make mine stronger, Id say yes. Closing Thread.
ISSUE Previous owner ran fuel lines too short and cut under UIM - Pinching secondary fuel rail - Causing leaning out at higher rpms - poor boost and the bouncing needle of the fuel pressure.
Replaced : Fuel filter, FPR, Lines, Fittings
In all-was it bad Not so much, could it have been worse, yes. Did it kill my turbo by wearing it out, it sure did, did I almost kill my new one I just put on. No but eventually Id assume it would wear out.
Do others lack of knowledge make mine stronger, Id say yes. Closing Thread.
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#8
Re-opened:
I had adjusted the MAF sensor attached to intake filter and throttle - started to bounce again.
I have zero issues when it comes to running and idling aside from fuel pressure + boost seems stock.
I'm running around stock fuel pressure 33-38 but the needle will bounce within that range and under throttle it will continue, untill the 4,000+ range when the boost builds and forces it to 70psi+. or 30-50 depending on playing with these two.
My plugs are black and brown, with no build up and I can only guess it's my FMIC and INTAKE causing this higher build and UN-responsive stock ECU, with response only from manually adjust the FPR and MAF.
Would my best bet be, changing injectors and finish installing my standalone EMS. I changed the pump, filter and fpr fixing and not fixing the issue. Meaning maybe poor fuel line routing causing this surge due to placement and direction of fuel lines under the UIM.
The only outstanding issue is steady build up of fuel pressure under throttle as idle it can be adjusted to stay steady at 35psi.
I had adjusted the MAF sensor attached to intake filter and throttle - started to bounce again.
I have zero issues when it comes to running and idling aside from fuel pressure + boost seems stock.
I'm running around stock fuel pressure 33-38 but the needle will bounce within that range and under throttle it will continue, untill the 4,000+ range when the boost builds and forces it to 70psi+. or 30-50 depending on playing with these two.
My plugs are black and brown, with no build up and I can only guess it's my FMIC and INTAKE causing this higher build and UN-responsive stock ECU, with response only from manually adjust the FPR and MAF.
Would my best bet be, changing injectors and finish installing my standalone EMS. I changed the pump, filter and fpr fixing and not fixing the issue. Meaning maybe poor fuel line routing causing this surge due to placement and direction of fuel lines under the UIM.
The only outstanding issue is steady build up of fuel pressure under throttle as idle it can be adjusted to stay steady at 35psi.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-10-15 at 07:35 PM. Reason: iknfo
#10
I wouldn't think so, but checking would be simple:
I did do a battery relocation: I do see the value of that, could cause voltage drop. Throw my tester around the positive and ground *while its running. This is a singular issue.
Will check tomorrow night: If no, I can only assume the issue is under the UIM.
That fueling issue sure brings my temperatures up on a warm day quick.
I did do a battery relocation: I do see the value of that, could cause voltage drop. Throw my tester around the positive and ground *while its running. This is a singular issue.
Will check tomorrow night: If no, I can only assume the issue is under the UIM.
That fueling issue sure brings my temperatures up on a warm day quick.
#11
Tested the draws, seems to be same across the board nothing irregular:
Put on new fuel rail system with larger injectors same problem, but it's more of a Slow increase and decrease that is audible. Raises up and drops down, the bouncing has stopped. I'm at the point where I think my issue is ECU related as I'm sure there was a small porting job done.
(port was known long ago, just not documented so couldn't say yes, but with steady idle you can hear it often.
Small street port , on a turbo motor running a stock ecu. Anyone else agree this ecu would be more of a culprit?
Put on new fuel rail system with larger injectors same problem, but it's more of a Slow increase and decrease that is audible. Raises up and drops down, the bouncing has stopped. I'm at the point where I think my issue is ECU related as I'm sure there was a small porting job done.
(port was known long ago, just not documented so couldn't say yes, but with steady idle you can hear it often.
Small street port , on a turbo motor running a stock ecu. Anyone else agree this ecu would be more of a culprit?
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-14-15 at 06:31 PM.
#12
Solved:
Strong fuel pump holds pressure well, injectors fine (New)
Issues was related to an aftermarket FPR and MAF needing to be adjusted into a setting where the stock ECU would recognize readings at proper levels.
Changed: Adjusted the FPR down to reduce fuel pressure and adjusted the MAF down to lean out mixure. These will need to be readjusted once I replace my broken AIT Sensor.
Strong fuel pump holds pressure well, injectors fine (New)
Issues was related to an aftermarket FPR and MAF needing to be adjusted into a setting where the stock ECU would recognize readings at proper levels.
Changed: Adjusted the FPR down to reduce fuel pressure and adjusted the MAF down to lean out mixure. These will need to be readjusted once I replace my broken AIT Sensor.
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