Has anyone run braided lines for there fuel systems? Im about to go replace my FPD(since its been leakign without a fire now for about a month or two) and I figured I might as well pull the emissions crap and run braided fuel lines if I was able to. Any pics and tech advice woul dbe appreaciated, and yes I have done searching but all ive seemed to find is more ppl saying to search and to replace the FPD asap.

 

It's going to cost you a lot of money.
IF your doing it the good way. If you just going to use the line and clamp it on then it'll be cheap and probably useless.

If you get the AN adapters and terminals then it will cost you since they range from $5-$15 a piece.

Trying to think what the fuel system is made of.

I guess you can try and find a AN Banjo bolt for the stock FPD position.
Then run SS line to it.

Then you can probably do the same for the FPR return line.
Although it depends on what you've done. I have removed the ratsntes so there isn't even hardline under there to work with.

 

I wish to do it the right way so I wont have to deal with these rubber hoses ever again. But Ive not touched the rats nest as of yet. Ill be buying lines for 2 motors so that I have one to use as a test fit then do the actual running of lines on the running engine. Im also goign to attempt to get down to teh essential vac. lines for the space savings and so i wont have to worry about leaks too. I have no emissions standards to pass so I am free to do what I wish.

I just need nudged in teh right direction and ill be good from there....I can already forsee seeign 20-21 mpg from this engine if I can fix the FPD by itself.

 

There is no fix for the fpd, unless it is one of the crush washers leaking. Good quality fi rated rubber fuel line will suffice for many years, unless you just want to spend extra money for the bling.

 

I agree. I went with the best rubber fuel line I could get my hands on at $10/ft. and it's worked real well. I think I went through five feet total when I eliminated the rat's nest.

 

Discounted from baxters through employee friends and family is still $5.50 a ft . I bought 25ft .

 

Well, my reasoning for not using mroe rubber lines is simple: Im tired of busting and scrapign my hands on hoses and lines that are not sishign to remove themselves from teh unit, and to have a reusable system. But thanks for the input gentlemen.

I woul dlike a little bling under the hood, since I wont be having the nice bling of BOV's and turbos under the hood. So all i can do for appearances sake is paint and ss lines and such. I have no problem with spendign money on the car. Its cheaper than the only new realistic car I would buy, teh Mustang Gt at a price tag of nearly 30 grand, maybe less with the a-plan. So anything spent up to that point is money well put.

 

Well, Keeping the stock stuff kind of limits you due to the placement and threading/etc...

Here is the pimp setup.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fsystem.htm

Parallel

Traditional/Stock style


Pimp way.


I started the parallel setup but it got too expensive as I was getting the parts so I cut it down the the bare need for running SS line. My secondary rail/FPR/return line are all SS.

The Y block and fittings to get the primary and inlet was getting up there in $$$

EDIT
Oh yeah. While your at it get a fuel pressure guage. It'll be around 60 I think. It's a HUGE help when diagnosing flooding/fuel issues.

 

I have done that to my Rex and it wasnt too expensive...it costed me more time then it did money. It ran me about 150 bones through JCW.

 

Nope. No one in the past 20 years that 2nd gens have been available has ever used braided stainless. Not even once.

Seriously, plenty of cars hve been done (including mine).

The diagram has already been posted in this thread, but it does not include a pulsation damper. Please check the pulsation damper threads in the archives so you can make an informed decision whether or not to use one. For me, it's not a hard choice to make...yes.

It's certainly not cheap, since while you are doing this you will probably want to run new lines from the pump forward and eliminate all clamped connections. This means a new fuel filter, regulator and pulsation damper.

Get the injectors cleaned while you are there.

 

oooooohhhh injector cleaning GOOD point!

Since we're kind of on the fuel topic. Any recommendations from you guys on Fuel filters other than stock? AN or Clamped?

 

Thanks for all the input guys. THough I still cant see either the pics nor use the link that Digi7ech posted

 

Mallory makes a great filter. Aeromotive also has one. Both come with AN ports.