Fuel leak! Why??
#1
Fuel leak! Why??
Whenever I fire up my car its ok for about a minute, then fuel starts gushing from the fuel rail all over the LIM, and down the transmission. I thought it was a leaky PD, but I replaced the PD with a banjo bolt, and no change. I thought it was because I used old crush washers, so I went around town trying to find new ones, but nobody had them in the right size. So I bought ones that were too big and cut them down with a dremel. They aren't pretty, but they are damn close to stock sized. No change in the leaking after that either. The only things I can think of now are:
A. go on mazdatrix or something and replace the washers again
B. get an FPR because maybe the fuel pressure is too high with my 255 pump
note: the problem started after I removed my vac rack, and I have been running the 255 for months.
A. go on mazdatrix or something and replace the washers again
B. get an FPR because maybe the fuel pressure is too high with my 255 pump
note: the problem started after I removed my vac rack, and I have been running the 255 for months.
#2
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Posts: 7,323
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Are you sure the leak is from the pulse damper?
If the FPR was stuck you'd be running way rich.
I'd look closely at the injector O-rings. They are not a real tight fit and the slightest scratch in the rubber will make them leak.
The best practice is to replace them if the're old. Then any time you seperate the injectors from the rail, clean the rail sockets & injector grooves very carefully, and lightly oil the O-rings just before reassembling..
If the FPR was stuck you'd be running way rich.
I'd look closely at the injector O-rings. They are not a real tight fit and the slightest scratch in the rubber will make them leak.
The best practice is to replace them if the're old. Then any time you seperate the injectors from the rail, clean the rail sockets & injector grooves very carefully, and lightly oil the O-rings just before reassembling..
#3
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
You can re-anneal your old copper washers by bringing them juuust to red hot with a mini torch and then letting them cool. Do a google search on re-annealing.
What about the injector o-rings where they insert into the fuel rail and make a seal with the inner bore?
Did you replace the lines and clamps when you were in there?
What about the injector o-rings where they insert into the fuel rail and make a seal with the inner bore?
Did you replace the lines and clamps when you were in there?
#4
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
The best solution here is to remove your UIM. Jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector on the passenger side shock tower area and feel around for leaks, obviously with the car off. Don't do this guesswork stuff. Whatever is causing this (since it's not PD) is likely a $10 part or less (piece of fuel hose, grommet, whatever). You just need to take the time to diagnose it properly.
#7
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
Yellow plug near the airflow meter - plug has a rubber boot around it...follow the Boost sensor/Variable resistor wiring. Once jumpered with ignition on, activates the fuel pump circuit.
If you don't find it, turn ignition on, and move airflow meter flap (after getting access to it).
If you don't find it, turn ignition on, and move airflow meter flap (after getting access to it).
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