Fuel leak ideas
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Fuel leak ideas
I can see it now, coming from under the intake manifold. And the mileage is crap, plus the fire hazard, this needs to be fixed. S5 NA. Been researching the 'banjo bolt' mod as $230 is rather alot right now for one part, but it seems that it can only be done to S4s? Alternately, I've read that the injector seals can wear and cause the leak, how likely is this?
In all honesty, this car cannot be down more than 48 consecutive hours at a time, should I just source a low-mileage PD and injector o-rings, and spend an afternoon R&R'ing? As to sourcing a low-miles PD, what is 'low miles', and what should I look for as to damage/wear?
In all honesty, this car cannot be down more than 48 consecutive hours at a time, should I just source a low-mileage PD and injector o-rings, and spend an afternoon R&R'ing? As to sourcing a low-miles PD, what is 'low miles', and what should I look for as to damage/wear?
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u shouldent drive the car untill u fix that leak.. u may cause a fire and then the car will be down for more that 48hrs
i have a replacement fuel rail ...$30 shipped to u .. came off my s5 NA... with 122k miles... it never leaked when i had it on.... let me know
i have a replacement fuel rail ...$30 shipped to u .. came off my s5 NA... with 122k miles... it never leaked when i had it on.... let me know
#3
Since your downtime is limited, you don't want to get stuck when something breaks/needs replacing and you're not prepared. The first time I removed my UIM, I ended having more problems than I anticipated, so be prepared.
Shopping list:
injector o-rings
PD
New gaskets (I like to use non-permanent gasket sealant, so it comes apart easier next time you need to remove your intake manifolds)
vacuum hose (old ones are most likely hard/brittle)
fuel line
OMP line (the stock ones very well might snap)- apparently weedwacker fuel line does the trick (do a search for that write-up)
masking tape, ziplock bags, and a sharpie; label everything as you go and reassembly will go much quicker
There are a few "while I'm here, I might as well..." items you can take care of if you have the time, while the UIM is off. Remove the ECU ground, clean the contact area, and replace. Remove the EGR and clean the carbon out. Probably something else I can't think of.
If you remove the primary fuel rail, there is a black spacer between the bracket (attached to the fuel rail) and the engine, be sure to put the space back during reassembly.
Shopping list:
injector o-rings
PD
New gaskets (I like to use non-permanent gasket sealant, so it comes apart easier next time you need to remove your intake manifolds)
vacuum hose (old ones are most likely hard/brittle)
fuel line
OMP line (the stock ones very well might snap)- apparently weedwacker fuel line does the trick (do a search for that write-up)
masking tape, ziplock bags, and a sharpie; label everything as you go and reassembly will go much quicker
There are a few "while I'm here, I might as well..." items you can take care of if you have the time, while the UIM is off. Remove the ECU ground, clean the contact area, and replace. Remove the EGR and clean the carbon out. Probably something else I can't think of.
If you remove the primary fuel rail, there is a black spacer between the bracket (attached to the fuel rail) and the engine, be sure to put the space back during reassembly.
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Since your downtime is limited, you don't want to get stuck when something breaks/needs replacing and you're not prepared.
Shopping list:
injector o-rings
PD
New gaskets (I like to use non-permanent gasket sealant, so it comes apart easier next time you need to remove your intake manifolds)
vacuum hose (old ones are most likely hard/brittle)
fuel line
OMP line (the stock ones very well might snap)- apparently weedwacker fuel line does the trick (do a search for that write-up)
masking tape, ziplock bags, and a sharpie; label everything as you go and reassembly will go much quicker
There are a few "while I'm here, I might as well..." items you can take care of if you have the time. Remove the ECU ground, clean the contact area, and replace. Remove the EGR and clean the carbon out. Probably something else I can't think of.
Shopping list:
injector o-rings
PD
New gaskets (I like to use non-permanent gasket sealant, so it comes apart easier next time you need to remove your intake manifolds)
vacuum hose (old ones are most likely hard/brittle)
fuel line
OMP line (the stock ones very well might snap)- apparently weedwacker fuel line does the trick (do a search for that write-up)
masking tape, ziplock bags, and a sharpie; label everything as you go and reassembly will go much quicker
There are a few "while I'm here, I might as well..." items you can take care of if you have the time. Remove the ECU ground, clean the contact area, and replace. Remove the EGR and clean the carbon out. Probably something else I can't think of.
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Also, I was looking at Mazdatrix putting together a price list for the parts I'll need for this, and they said that the air bleeds 'almost always break when removed from the engine'. Are they just trying to sell $40 pieces of plastic, or is there truth to this? And hypothetically, if I don't need to buy new bleeds (if I'm careful), will the injector O-rings also fit the bleeds?
#6
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You're right about the S5 PD; you can't do the banjo bolt mod since it does not thread in like the S4 version. Everyone always thinks the S5 is less likely to fail, but the reality is that it's just harder to replace when it does.
As for air bleeds/diffusers breaking, I've disassembled 5 engines and never had a broken one. And I don't think injector o-rings will fit onto them.
As for air bleeds/diffusers breaking, I've disassembled 5 engines and never had a broken one. And I don't think injector o-rings will fit onto them.
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Thanks all, for the offers of parts. But this might have to wait, just spent $300 because the alternator dumped 50mi from home. (Bad decision to have it rebuilt by a local shop. Lesson learned.)
#10
Sucks! Normally I recommend getting the alternator rebuilt by a local shop, I had a great experience with mine, and much cheaper than new/reman alt.
If you're putting off the fuel rail issue, DO NOT drive the car until you can address it.
If you're putting off the fuel rail issue, DO NOT drive the car until you can address it.
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Alright, so I think I have the list of grommets and seals made, except for the lower O-rings. I know that they go on the diffusers, but I think it would still be a good idea to replace them. However, Mazdatrix does not sell them, they'd rather I spend $120 for new diffusers with the rings already installed. Can anyone give me the Mazda part # for the lower injector O-rings? And are the part numbers on Mazdatrix the actual Mazda OEM #s?
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You can dig through the parts fiche for the PNs (http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/), but Mazdatrix uses the actual Mazda PNs too. As far as the o-rings on the diffusers, I think you may be better off just buying a generic o-ring assortment, then finding the right size. I doubt Mazda will sell them without the diffusers, and the cost probably wouldn't be worth it if they did.
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You can dig through the parts fiche for the PNs (http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/), but Mazdatrix uses the actual Mazda PNs too. As far as the o-rings on the diffusers, I think you may be better off just buying a generic o-ring assortment, then finding the right size. I doubt Mazda will sell them without the diffusers, and the cost probably wouldn't be worth it if they did.
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