See this fuel bleed off device for leaking injectors????? http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm

You gotta click on the url to see it (for slow heads).

Now I looked at that and say, why buy it?????? You can do the same thing for no money. Just yank your fuel pump out. Get a drill with a very small drill. Say a 1/32 give or take. Drill a hole in the pressure line of the fuel pump. The HARD pressure line inside the tank. Say about a inch above the rubber hose that attaches to the real pump. Done.

Well almost done. Got the hole too big??? Or don't like it since you did it??? Not a biggy. Get a commone hose clamp and attach it to the pressure line and clamp it over the hole you drilled. Now it's not a hole anymore. OR if you drilled a too large of a hole, then clamp the clamp over most of the hole you drilled to cut down on the size of the hole.

This device was made as a stop gap measure for leaking injectors. REad the http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm

So what happens when you turn the key to OFF, is the fuel pressure drops to zero in moments, preventing fuel from being dribbled into the rotor chambers causing a flood. Normal cars will have the pressure stay above 30psi for thirty minutes or more. Depends on the checkvalve in the pump and FPR.

It takes b/t one and two seconds for the rail to repressurize to 38psi once the key is turned to START.

Let's see. $52.50 vs free. Which is better. Got me. I'll work on it.

And while I'm here.......You want to make the engine run richer. Why mess with the AFM temp sensor???? Ever notice how if you start and drive a cold engine, that the mixture stays rich UNTIL the water temp gets to 120 degrees F?????? I have. So what you could do, is fool the water thermo sensors output to the ECU into thinking the water temp is colder than 120F. Maybe a voltage clamp like on the home made FCD's. Or???????

 

Hailers... you're a very cheap cheap individual and we all appreciate it.

 

Or you can install a fuel cut switch.

Most people seem to think it only comes in handy for starting the car....well yes it does, but to help it start, you need to help it shut off.

Instead of killing the car with the key, flick the switch off and all the excess fuel pressure will be spat out the injectors as the engine winds down (I would even mash the pedal as a precuation also)

Then when you go to fire it back up you're good to go.

 

My only answer to that is.........the drilled hole in the fuel pump pressure line is a "HANDS OFF" method.

But I totally agree that if using a fuel cut switch, the best way of using it is to kill the engine so there is no *Flood* conditoin to be overcome in the first place. IF using a fuel cut switch to deflood the car on starting.....well that's the wrong way to use it. Washes the rotor housings down if done like that and wears the starter out for no good reason.

But to use it like that requires on shutdown for you to rev the engine and turn the switch off when you reach high revs. IF you just turn the switch off at idle, then the fuel rail will still have pressure in it and if the injectors are leaking, they will leak away. Drip, drip, drippity. Floodo.

I've watched fuel rail pressure when just killing the engine using the switch at idle vs reving and turning the switch off at high revs. Big difference.

Even better is the Simple Voltage Switch I made using the water thermo sensor voltage. Any water temp over about 120 F and then during START, the ECU start map isn't used anymore but the afm is used for fuel delivery. Much smaller fuel amount is injected that way which results in a no flood start.

 

Cheap eBay "resistor" mods do that. It's a very bad way of doing things because it'll run so rich it'll cause hesitations around 5000 rpms if you fool it into thinking it's running too cold while the engine is actually hot. Been there and played that game with a bad temp sensor.

 

Interesting information. I've always just shut it off with the switch from idle. Guess I won't be doing that from now on.