87TII
Is there anyway to tell if the front chamber is building compression... I dont mean a compression test... I mean some sign that the front rotor is doing its job..

Had the car into the dealer a month ago and they said it had compression but it wasent building it while driving?!?

Now I think I might have fixed the problem but I want to make sure... 150. kms on the rebuild now and i feel that its slowly getting power... when i touch the boost i cant notice anything but maybe I need to wait on that...

by the way the boost kicks in constantly when I go above 3000 rpms I dont remember it doing that before but hopefully its just breaking it self in...

The car has a hard time starting in the cold but when its warm 2-3 tries and it fires up. I rev it once and she sets back at 1000rpm idle and purrs.

Plugs are new. Spark on all 4 but when I remove the front chamber plugs they look clean, almost unused....
Back chamber seems to be working the plugs are black.

she is getting fuel cause she floods (have a fuel cut off switch installed.

fuel and spark are both there so whats not?

anyone know how I can tell if the front rotor is working?

 

If the front rotor is getting:

Spark
Fuel
Compression

It's doing it's job.

 

but it seems like the car has a lack of power... when i pull onto the highway i need about 1km to get upto speed...

 

If it has compression while testing, it's going to have compression on the road...what were the numbers from the compression test?

 

if it only has 150km then you are not going to have gobs of power yet. and don't go into boost at all if you can.

 

Doh! I completely missed the part about the rebuild...My reading skills in the morning are pretty shitty.

 

try ATF to build some compression, get rid of carbon crap.

 

couldnt u just like cutoff fuel to the second chamber, and start it, and see if it runs?

 

can you do that?
how how how??

the car is running as I type and im actually very suprised it started considering its -1 out now...
still very hard to start though.


I did a compression test but i did it wrong.. i was getting 120 but i was holding my thumb over the valve hole. im going to do it again now

 

um you can pull the plug to the primary injector. i did that accidentaly, definetly keeps the rotor from working.............

 

Don't do the ATF trick! You have a new engine don't go compromising it.

It still has low miles so it might flood and so on.

One thing I woudl ask is.
Did you get your injectors cleaned?

Maybe you have a bad injector which isn;t spraying enough or too much because it isn't flow matched and cleaned.

www.cruzinperformance.com does cleaning for $11 each.
I'm sending mine today to him. I want to make sure my engine gets perfect fuel so it doesn't lean out in spots because of old/crusty injectors.

 

yeah i had my injectors cleaned before i put the motor in the guy said he has never seen anything that small pump out that much fuel.... but they should be all good

On one of them the little protector cap was broken but he said its just that a "protector cap"

i just removed the plugs again...
the front chamber plugs are still spotless and are fuel soaked while the back are black and bone dry.. i definately think the front rotor has a problem...

Im also hearing a light buss comming from the powersteering pump.... sounds almost electric...
.......
also just found that there is a green plug not connected to anything there... comes off of the 4 plugs (green, grey, blue, orange) ...

still cant figure out why its not clicking!?!?

 

just switched the plugs and at first it wouldnt idle...

I was hoping it was a faulty plug that i missed but i dont think so..

went for a run around the block and it has SOME power its just im terrified of breaking it before I even really got it back...

down around 1000-2500 rpms it boggs out but anything above that she seems to purr quite nicely...

do you think i would notice the front rotor not working?

If its just the rear rotor pulling me along then well rotories the engine of gods!

 

I guarantee you would notice the front rotor not working. You would be blowing lots of smoke and the engine would barely idle and it would feel as if there was NO power.

Pull the plugs out and then the EGI fuse.
Have some one turn the engine over and see what comes out of the spark plug holes.

Are you sure it's fuel soaked and not coolant or some thing? Also when the plugs are out listen for a variation in noise. If it's WOOSH WOOSH woosh then maybe one side isn't building compression.

I can only guess on that green plug/Maybe it's a Vac rack solenoid plug thing.

Check the Factory Service manual.

 

lol, yes you would easily know if one of your rotors was not "working"

Dont go boosting on the engine unless you want to rebuild it right away again.

 

dont worry im not trying to boost it just seems to happen when i go above 2500 rpms...

I cant figure out whats wrong with it... now that ive changed the plugs it seems she wont idle.. maybe 1 is faulty?!?

 

The green is for the Twin Scroll Solenoid. Not a player in your difficulties.

Just off the top of my head: the rear fuel can be cut by applying a source of pressure to the pressure/boost sensor and making sure the pressure you apply is above 9psi. Yes, you can hit fuel cut in your driveway.....if you don't have a fuel cut defender. That's what MittyVacs were made for.

You probably won't do that, so check the plugs on the injectors. Check that the right wire colors are going to the right injector.

Make sure that both LEAD sparkplug wires are going to the bottom plugs....and that T1 is going to the top fwd sparkplug and T2 is going to the top aft sparkplug.

When it's idling, carefully withdraw one of the LEAD sparkplug wires from the COIL bore. Make sure you do that slowly and only withdraw it to where the wire just barely comes out of the bore. YOu should see the sucker sparking away. If not, then the lead coils have died on you or the lead ignitor has died. If you have spark...then thats not the problem.

The car should not be acting funny like that just because its a rebuild. As long as the rebuild was done right.

I think it'd be kinda cool to pull both lower sparkplugs and spin the engine and see if you have a mist of fuel coming out that front plug hole. Thirty minute job to prove that you have fuel and get that thought put to bed. And no, I don't worry about the mist exploding because the sparkplug wires will be a arcing. Just pull the small white, two socket connector off the LEAD coil assy first. No need to be pulling fuses.

 

well i tried testing each one of the plugs and they seem fine...

guess im going to have to suffer through putting it through the dealer....

are rebuilds supposed to be hard to start?
i turn it over and it revs to 1k then dies unless i hold the gas....just when its first starting...

 

Don't take it to the dealer! Their idiots.

Most of the mechanics will probably ask where the head gasket is on it.

The symptoms your stating sounds just like my 88SE the night before it totally blew a coolant seal.
That shoudln't be your case though if it's a rebuilt unless they screwed up.

Did they testbed run it before they gave it to you?

 

i realy sounds like only one rotor is working. i dont know whta else to say about getting it fixed but thats what it looks like to me.

 

has anyone ever had anything similar to this?

I cant imagine why its not working..
spark and fuel is all you need and i have all of that!?

 

i found the receipt from when i last get her checked out...

says.. front rotor has no compression but did chamber check and compression still good.

i cant figure out how that works....

 

how can i cut the fuel to the rear rotor?
i want to see if the front one will start the car or not.

also how can i cut back on the fuel to the front rotor?
im thinking maybe it is getting too much fuel and the plugs are drowning???

 

What about the oil metering pump being bad OR oil not injecting into one of the housings due to a clogged or bad oil injector...that would cause the apex seals to not be lubricated thus lowering compression to a minimum!

 

yeah i suppose it could be the oil metering pump or the o-injectors.... where is the oil metering pump again?