Front Differential Mount Replacement Write-Up (PICS!)
07-21-07, 01:24 PM
#28
Sorry to dig this out again but I just did mine and thought I'd add to it alittle.
Be sure to remove the bottom mount bolt for the sub-link.
I was prying and jerking and twisting to no avail. Took out that bolt and the sub-frame fell out. Just my 2 cents.
Be sure to remove the bottom mount bolt for the sub-link.
I was prying and jerking and twisting to no avail. Took out that bolt and the sub-frame fell out. Just my 2 cents.
02-06-08, 07:57 PM
#30
-100 for welded diff mount
Where do you think the rest of the forces are gonna go if you eliminate that rubber? If you're gonna do that, might as well reinforce everything else so that they can handle the increased loads.
+100 for pinion snubber.
It's cheap, easy, and doesn't put much strain on the rest of the rear subframe. Think of it as an extra avenue for drivetrain forces to dissipate. It's an easy job to knock out once the diff mount is out. I've done it in my TII, haven't had a problem since, even with countless hard launches. I've eliminated my wheel hop issues too.
Where do you think the rest of the forces are gonna go if you eliminate that rubber? If you're gonna do that, might as well reinforce everything else so that they can handle the increased loads.
+100 for pinion snubber.
It's cheap, easy, and doesn't put much strain on the rest of the rear subframe. Think of it as an extra avenue for drivetrain forces to dissipate. It's an easy job to knock out once the diff mount is out. I've done it in my TII, haven't had a problem since, even with countless hard launches. I've eliminated my wheel hop issues too.
02-09-08, 09:36 PM
#34
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Man, just finishing this up. I don't know how you guys did this in that amount of time. Maybe cuz mines a turbo II. Theres a couple little extra things I had to unbolt to get the subframe to come down. Ended up dropping the whole diff. The rear diff mounts didnt want to go in smooth. Had to sand them down and bit and put a tbolt clamp on the top of one to shrink it down so we could ram it in .
02-10-08, 12:49 AM
#35
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this took me a full day to do. and i put the exhaust back on the next day. i dont know how it can be done in a few hours. just getting to some of the nuts took what seemed like a few hours. i didnt have an assistant though. but just getting to the mount seemed like 90% of the work. thank god for the hollow pipe from my floorjack. dont start this repair if yer not ready for some work. but it is a very worthwhile pain in the ***. i would add take both wheels off and dont do it without taking the catback section of the exhaust completely off. shortcuts will bite you in the *** on this one trust me. just take everything off and drop the subframe as low as possible. and have something to torque yer sockets with. most of what your onbolting here is torqued to hell. and have a u joint adapter and extender handy for yer socket wrench. great writeup should be archived
02-10-08, 01:21 AM
#36
Some helpful tips while doing this job:
-Have LONG extensions handy & breaker bar
-Know how to use the double wrench trick to increase leverage
-Use PB on every fastener to be removed
-Remove both rear tires
-Remove exhaust from y-pipe back
-Remove the 2 main subframe nuts & the parts that attach to it.
The rear nut(of 2) on the outside face of the diff mount can best be taken off with a 1/2 inch ratchet with a stubby extension, from the rear.
The front one can be removed with a wrench (I use the double wrench trick)
The subframe should drop off the studs and hang for about an inch below it. The nuts on the ears of the diff shouldn't have to be loosened.
-Have LONG extensions handy & breaker bar
-Know how to use the double wrench trick to increase leverage
-Use PB on every fastener to be removed
-Remove both rear tires
-Remove exhaust from y-pipe back
-Remove the 2 main subframe nuts & the parts that attach to it.
The rear nut(of 2) on the outside face of the diff mount can best be taken off with a 1/2 inch ratchet with a stubby extension, from the rear.
The front one can be removed with a wrench (I use the double wrench trick)
The subframe should drop off the studs and hang for about an inch below it. The nuts on the ears of the diff shouldn't have to be loosened.
10-03-08, 05:16 AM
#37
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I dunno if i am resurrecting this from the dead, but i am on a laptop doing this as i type. Now the subframe lowered for me fine and i didnt have any problems getting the mount out. I got the 3 nuts on that connect the mount to the diff but is there a trick to getting it to align with the subframe, i used a jack and raised the subframe so it was hitting the bottom of the mount however lost all my access. How critical is where these studs sit on the subframe is it possible to just lower it a lil then do em? And as for the guy that sanded down the rear mounts, if your read the FSM they require 2 tonnes of force to press in.
06-12-12, 11:15 PM
#38
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write up
This is a good write up. I just wanted to add something and give a warning to anyone doing this job. If you remove the nuts connecting the lateral links to the subframe be carefull. The nuts holding the lateral links have a different thread pitch than the nuts holding the front diff mounts. They are both 17mm heads and can get mixed up easily because they look the same.
