Well, you guys were right. Without even looking at the mount prior to starting, you guys diagnosed it's failure just from descriptions members gave you about the noises eminating from the rears of their cars. WestJaxVert came over today with two floor jacks, his tools and in 2.5 hours had the broken mount out and the new one in. Here's a little advice I can give that may help if you have to do this too:
1. have ramps and two floor jacks available
2. wd40 the nuts the night before
3. have a breaker bar handy
4. remove the "squarish" block of rubber that juts out first from tthe mount to make room for the other nasty nuts and bolts.

BTW, why is there a block of rubber that sits offset from the mount?

Overall, it wasn't too bad of a job. And getting the new mount in is easier than taking the old one out.

Good luck!

B

PS: Thanks a mill WestJax!

 

did you have to drop the subframe at all??

 

thnx..

 

When I replaced my broken mount, I had to lower the sub frame a few inches. Sounds harder than it really is. The whole job is pretty easy and its not a hard job like everyone on here makes it sound. Breaker bar is a good idea to have around. I found that removing the exhaust after the "y" pipe gives you a bit more room to work.

 

Thanks for lunch!



Scott: We removed the four main nuts that hold the subframe up (two 22mm and two 17mm) and the bar on the middle-left of the subframe that mounted up to the undercarriage. Then we lowered it down about 3-4 inches (no more than 6) to get access to the mount bolts. Then we removed the two nuts that attached the mount to the subframe which allowed us to maneuver the differential upwards to get access to the nuts that attached the mount to the differential. Installation was easier and the reverse of removal.

Dan