I just installed new front bearings and races. I have done everything per the FSM so far. I have preloaded the bearings and I am at the step where I tighten the axel nut according the friction force (0.9-2.2 lbs at lug).

Problem:
The friction force is over spec (~3lbs) even before the axel nut is snug.

What could I have done wrong?
How do I know how tight the axel nut should be?

The only thing I can think of is the bearing grease. I used Coastal Lithium Hi-Temp Disk Brake Wheel Bearing Grease and the hub is packed full of it. Is there such a thing as too much grease?

It is about 45° here now. Could the colder temperature be causing a lower grease viscosity and a higher than normal friction reading?

Any ideas?

Thanks!
-Jason

 

So? Who said the nut had to be snug? You put a cotter key thru the nut to secure it.

 

I just replaced a wheel bearing on my driver's side rear, due to a broken axle.

Just press the new bearing in, press in the hub until it seats, make sure it spins around. Reconnect your brake assembly and all that noise, and go for a drive. If something's making a noise, check the dust shield, mine was contacting the rotor. If it works and there are no noises, don't worry about it.

Where'd you get your bearing, NAPA? That's where I got mine, and I have no problems with it.

And regarding the axle nut, tighten it down to what the FSM specs are, and punch the side with a hammer and punch, to keep it tight on the axle. If you're not getting enough threads, pull the axle shaft towards you, the plunge is on the inner side, but it should still move a bit out past the hub.

 

It certainly has to be snug to a certain degree to hold the bearings in their seats and keep the hub from wobbling on the spindle.

On one of the hubs, I can take the nut completely off and the friction force is still ~3lbs.

 

not to bump an old thread.

but I buzzed mine on after I repacked them and they are loose already, after like a week!

I'm going to get new ones and pop them in, was it my impact that gave them too much force? but that wouldnt make sense that they came loose then.

 

bad nut? you might have a spur in the threads or the nut is oblong or something. I doubt a new nut is real expensive, try a new one out.

 

Impact is way too much force on a wheel bearing, so the nut probably backed off to a closer to acceptable torque afte being driven.

Did you install the cotter pin/castle cover?

 

Reviving an old thread...found while searching.

Everyone's mixing up front and rear bearing/hub info.

The front needs to be preloaded, then hub spun 2-3 times (OP - did you remember to do this?), loosened until you can spin the nut by hand, then tightened using a spring scale to the initial frictional force while the hub nut is hand tight PLUS 0.2-2.2lb at the lug. (OP, add this to your ~3lb you mentioned). make sure you have the washer behind the nut. Once tightened, you add the crown like nut cap, cotter pin, and hub cap.

The rear is where you tighten to spec. (do not over-tighten), using a *NEW* nut, and stake the collar to the groove in the axle.

For anyone doing this, 21mm socket for the wheel nuts, 23mm for the hub nut (and a few more like 14, 17mm wrences or sockets for the brakes and slider grease and anti-seize), torque wrench, spring scale, wheel bearing grease, parts washer and air compressor are things you'll need or want for this job.

 

Brand new bearings will be tighter than used ones, as they need to break in a bit so to speak. I had a discussion about this with a very experianced mecahnic friend and he says he always sets up new ones to be slightly tight, as they loosen off a bit. So either set them up a little on the tight side, or check them a while after installing them and re-set them.