The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

When I was working on my car- the BAC connector eventualy fell apart and the wires came undone.

Now I am not sure but am almost positive that the lines touched and probably toasted the little resister in the ECU that conrols this.

I already replaced the connector, but it wont work now. Nothing I do can change the bac adjustment.

Only thing I did notice is that when I have my stereo/amps on- the idle levels out at 1k perfectly.

Ive never had a better idle.
I bought the car and it started and Idled at 1k.

I remove the coolant TB lines- now I have a 1.3k+ idle that jumps all over the place. .

Im about ready to replace the damn things to how they were.

After the car warms up- I either get a 600 idle, or a 1k, some times a 1.5-.7 idle.

I replaced the TPS, used a DMM to set it to 1ohm after letting the car warm up.

Im kinda lost to what else I can do.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I had a tear in my newer TID couplers weak rubber- got a much nicer thicker coupler.

Idles still bouncing everywhere and being completly random.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Did I really toast that part of the ecu?
COmmon guys I cant answer my own questions most the time.....

ilike2eatricers

Have you tried pulling your ECU and opening it up to see/smell for any burnt spots? Check resistance/voltages at BAC connection.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Any specific voltage/ resistance I should check for- I have a DMM here to use.

ilike2eatricers

Check the fuel and emissions section for your year in the FSM http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Will do. Thanks!

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Did you jumper the ISC?

ilike2eatricers

I was kinda under the assumption that you got a CEL. Did you?

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Yes.