Freshly Rebuilt Streetported and Painted13BT Motor
09-24-03, 09:10 PM
#1
Freshly Rebuilt Streetported and Painted13BT Motor
Things are finally starting to come together. I recently had the Motor taken Into Can-Saf Performance for for major evaluation. At first I opted for a drop In, but quickly ruled that out. I gave to the old adage - If you want to do It right, do It right from the beginning. So Can-Saf did the Incredible deed which turned out fantastic!
Heres what I started out with. Not to bad for a J-Spec. I was amazed how clean It was, the shape of the Turbo and how freely the bolts came off.
After being sandblasted, shot of Clearcoat and a float of Gloss Black.
Can't really see the Exhaust Ports. Slick on how well It turned out.
The black is where they Ported it is the same size as the secondary street port.
General concensus - BIG Streetport?
Boosted silverrotor's
More pics to follow.
Many thanks to 20B-3Rotor, Ivan and their crew up at Can-Saf. I'm very pleased with the setup and look forward to the drop In and a follow up! What'cha guys think?
Heres what I started out with. Not to bad for a J-Spec. I was amazed how clean It was, the shape of the Turbo and how freely the bolts came off.
After being sandblasted, shot of Clearcoat and a float of Gloss Black.
Can't really see the Exhaust Ports. Slick on how well It turned out.
The black is where they Ported it is the same size as the secondary street port.
General concensus - BIG Streetport?
Boosted silverrotor's
More pics to follow.
Many thanks to 20B-3Rotor, Ivan and their crew up at Can-Saf. I'm very pleased with the setup and look forward to the drop In and a follow up! What'cha guys think?
Last edited by Icemark; 09-25-03 at 05:59 PM.
09-24-03, 10:21 PM
#6
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Dec 2001
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Did mine the exact same way. Looks good for now, but even though I used special high temp clear, after seeing the high heat from the engine, they turned a sorta **** yellow color I now regret not painting them a different color, maybe when I have the uim off I will try and tape everything off and hit them up.
I now regret not painting them a different color, maybe when I have the uim off I will try and tape everything off and hit them up.
09-24-03, 10:29 PM
#7
Originally posted by Rxmfn7
Looks really nice. Any pics of my clutch and flywheel?
Looks really nice. Any pics of my clutch and flywheel?
Originally by 2a+RoN
Did mine the exact same way. Looks good for now, but even though I used special high temp clear, after seeing the high heat from the engine, they turned a sorta **** yellow color I now regret not painting them a different color, maybe when I have the uim off I will try and tape everything off and hit them up.
Did mine the exact same way. Looks good for now, but even though I used special high temp clear, after seeing the high heat from the engine, they turned a sorta **** yellow color I now regret not painting them a different color, maybe when I have the uim off I will try and tape everything off and hit them up.
Thanks for the heads up.
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09-25-03, 03:47 PM
#9
She bangs! More pics have arrived. Thanks again
20B-3Rotor for the pics.
Signature pics.
Distance side pic.
Disclaimer - Aluminum Flywheels are plenty streetable but suck for launches. For this reason, I opted to go with a FD Flywheel also, It's7lbs lighter than stock.
Keg shot.
20B-3Rotor for the pics.
Signature pics.
Distance side pic.
Disclaimer - Aluminum Flywheels are plenty streetable but suck for launches. For this reason, I opted to go with a FD Flywheel also, It's7lbs lighter than stock.
Keg shot.
09-25-03, 05:41 PM
#15
Thanks guys. I let you know 2a+RoN. I saw the bottle but forgot the make. Initially, I was going to use VHT High Temp Clear Coat but 20B-3 Rotor suggested this. I will also find out the solvent/method used to clean the silverrotor's Leonard.
This will be complemented with my much anticipated, finally arrived, long *** wait, Microtech LT8. A week from than, It's off to Brullen for a full ss 3" Exhaust and presilencer.
The NA was excellent but I'm hoping to see double the payoff now.
This will be complemented with my much anticipated, finally arrived, long *** wait
, Microtech LT8. A week from than, It's off to Brullen for a full ss 3" Exhaust and presilencer. The NA was excellent but I'm hoping to see double the payoff now.
09-26-03, 08:43 PM
#20
The Black Is - Dupli colour High Heat Ceramic, rated at 1200F - Part # 1602. The Clearcoat Is - Plastikote Engine Enamel , rated at 260C - Part # 229. I have seen Marlins 20B and Manifolds and they have not seen the slightest bit of yellowness that Is common (I guess) with clearcoat on Motor applications. No matter how hard I tried, he wouldn't tell me how he got the Rotors that clean.
09-27-03, 01:26 AM
#24
OBEY YOUR MAZDA
Looks very nice, resurfaced flywheel and stuff
It looks like you have grinded some aluminum from the rotors, is that for weightsavings or in order to run higher boost?
It looks like you have grinded some aluminum from the rotors, is that for weightsavings or in order to run higher boost?
09-27-03, 02:31 AM
#25
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Join Date: May 2003
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Oh my god guys... can you say "steam clean cabinet". After you do a steam clean (if you have one), you can use glass beads or wallnut shells to blast the rotors. Very common with aluminum heads, but you wouldn't know anything about that right? If you don't have access to a cabinet I've gotten away with going to the pressure washers (hand carwash) and using their engine cleaners, then using fine grit sand (silica) for blasting with about 70-80PSI (don't want to leave dimples). Get out from behind the monitor and into the garage (I don't even have that luxurey).
Very supprised he has had good results with paints that you have mentioned. There is some much more quality paints at:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
and POR20
http://www.por15.com/subcat.asp?id=4
POR20 is pretty expensive but a little bit goes a LONG way. You brush it on, so masking isn't as nessesary. VW people use POR15 to rebuild rusted spots and its basically liquid plastic. It stays completly flexible years later and protects metal on a molecular level.
Nice parts, should be sweet!! Sorry for sounding harsh earlier, but there is so many things to learn about cleaning and prepping before paint. Its at least 75% of the total outcome of the finish and how long it will last -is in the prep. Just like paint for a car body.
-Bobby
(I don't even have that luxurey).Very supprised he has had good results with paints that you have mentioned. There is some much more quality paints at:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
and POR20
http://www.por15.com/subcat.asp?id=4
POR20 is pretty expensive but a little bit goes a LONG way. You brush it on, so masking isn't as nessesary. VW people use POR15 to rebuild rusted spots and its basically liquid plastic. It stays completly flexible years later and protects metal on a molecular level.
Nice parts, should be sweet!! Sorry for sounding harsh earlier, but there is so many things to learn about cleaning and prepping before paint. Its at least 75% of the total outcome of the finish and how long it will last -is in the prep. Just like paint for a car body.
-Bobby