i just got my fc rebuilt. its a s5 tii block with s4 rotors, using goopy apex seals, 550 primary and 860 secondaries, the motor is street ported and the exhaust is ported also, i am using the ffe trigger wheel, godspeed fmic and radiator, factory coils with the secondary modded, t4 turbonetics turbo, and a haltech sprint re ecu. i have already tried putting oil in the leading plugs and preheating the plugs with a heat gun, and i have tried spraying starter fluid into the throttle body but still no luck to get it started. i have tried running the haltech base map and the base map from claudios list in the haltech section with no luck on either. does anyone have any suggestions on what i should do next?

 

Have you seen if you're actually getting spark?

 

have you confirmed the essentials?
- fuel getting to the chambers?
- spark?
- ignition referenced to TDC?

 

i have checked for spark and all 4 plugs are firing, i have fuel, and when i do ignition lock on the haltech and check the timing it is spot on. while i am cranking it i will occasionally get a little pop and i get exhaust the whole time. my battery usually dies down pretty good after a min or two of cranking and the fastest cranking speed i can get is 180 rpm but not for long generally its around 140 rpm. i have been searching and cant find what it needs to crank at but im guessing that has to be it. im thinking about pull starting the dang thing if i dont get it running by sunday.

 

180? yeah, that doesn't sound right. maybe try another battery ....

 

And make sure the fuel hoses, feed and return lines, are set up properly. Remember, a JSPEC engine has them connected opposite of a USDM motor.

 

And Vac lines!

 

fuel lines are ran correctly and i removed all rats nest so only running the essentials on the vac lines (map, wastegate, fpr, boost controller and bov). i will try a new battery i was thinking that 180rpm tops was way to slow for a first start with all new bearings.

 

I'm having the same problem with my rebuild. have spark, fuel, and timing set used ATF unflooding ect... been cranking and cranking like yourself so I came to the same conclusion about the motor not turning over fast enough to build compression. so heres what I'm going to do tomorrow "bump start" it using a tow rope and a chevy at 25 mph drop 2nd and see how that goes tomorrow so I'll let you know.

 

as well as being sure you have the in and out correct for fuel lines you also have to be sure that the fuel injector connectors are on the correct fuel injectors as it is common to see people put the primary clips on the secondary injectors,, and worse ,, put both primary connectors on the front rotor or vichy versa


check the wire colours.. and no .. im not going to spoon feed them to you ..

 

what he said!^^

 

lucky I helped another guy with this earlier today.
recheck the routing of your fuel injector wires to make they are going to the correct injector.

pin 3E-front primary injector (Lg) light green
pin 3C-rear primary injector (Lg/B) light green/black
pin 3H-front secondary injector (Lg/W) light green/White
pin 3F-rear secondary injector (Lg/R) light green/red

oh check to see if your sparkplug wires go to the right coil. l1, l2, t1, t2
good luck!

 

I will check injectors and change battery and get back on what I fund

 

So I checked injectors and they are all good. I ended up putting 880cc in primary and 1000cc injectors in the secondaries since I was there and the car still wouldn't start. I tried putting a better battery and new starter in and still no luck. I tested compression and it was showing 70ish psi all around using a piston tester with the shrader valve removed. So my next thing was I pull started it which worked. After unhooking it i was able to pull it into my garage so it makes some power. After running for 30 min at 2k-2500 rpm I idled it back down and as soon as it hits about 1200 it just dies and won't start again. I pulled the plugs and the front rotors plugs looked black so it was burning nice and the back looked a little wet. After testing the compression again the front rotor is at 75-80ish and rear is at 70 still. Any ideas? I thinking I just need to pull it and run it for longer for the goopy seals to seat nicely

 

And make sure you're not fighting a vacuum leak to keep the car idling.

 

I didn't find any yesterday when it was running but I will go through it more and see what happens when I pull start it again on Thursday

 

a vacuum leak shouldn't affect a standalone fitted vehicle, as you can tune the fuel to offset the leak. you could run with the brake booster hose open and not even notice the massive leak, aside from a low vacuum reading and high idle.

compression numbers sound low. the Goopy seals seat in rather quickly so if it is going to get better it is going to take quite a bit of time. what condition were the housings in? and what were the exact pulse readings for each of the 6 faces? 70 is a general number and if even one face is 20%+ lower than the rest then the engine will struggle to start.

try some new spark plugs and try to lean out the maps so that it isn't fouling the plugs so readily, even with lower compression you should be able to tune the haltech to start an engine that a stock ECU would laugh at. cranking timing should be roughly 10 degrees advanced. cranking fuel should be pig rich 6-10Ms injector, idling should then lean back out after the 300 RPM crank threshhold is passed and drop down to nearly half that.

a video of it running might also be helpful so that we can determine if it sounds like it is only firing on half the engine. i suspect this based on the condition you said the plugs were in, one set being black and the other clean but wet usually means the clean plugs are not firing anything of mention.

 

I was thinking one isn't firing right but it sounds smooth here is a link to a video though.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151984548005469

 

Also I had the motor built for me ha said the housings were reconditioned from goopy and its using all new bearings and seals with a large street port. I will have to recheck compression on Thursday to tell you exactly on the readings

 

I pull started the car again today and it pull starts really easy get just drop the clutch push it back in after a second and its running. I did find this time that my t1 coil isn't firing at all so I'm guessing my coils must be crap and not giving enough supply. I am going to try running ls1 coils and new plugs and hope that fixes my starting problem. I didn't try comp testing again yet but will do so on sunday

 

plugs get fouled on a fresh engine, i bet if you pull that particular plug out and replace it or simply clean it that you find there is nothing wrong with the coil.

of course this wouldn't be the cause of your issue.