I have tried adjusting everything to make it idle smooth even re-set the ecu but it sounds like its missing or something and it backfires when you give it some gas

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Sorry bout the poor lighting

 

mod list? It sounds like it's idling high. Did you put a timing light on it? Did you set the TPS?

 

I have a K&N air intake set up. I did a rats nest removal upon when I rebuilt it but I don't think thats it ive seen other cars that idle just fine that way.

I have not put a timing light on it yet. I have tried adjusting the TPS. What would cause it to idle so high like that and does it sound normal for it to sput so much. Also in the video I adjust the CAS to show how it idles when adjusting.

 

Yea man, set that timing up and make sure you havent got any vac leaks.

 

Yeah I am thinking vac leaks to I am pretty positive I have them all hooked up. Kinda wondering if I got a hose in the wrong place or something to. But I will try tweeking the timing here and get back to you. The idle is just so high around 2k if i remember right.

 

Unplug your BAC and the ACV or w/e

(its on the right side of the very top of the intake, it is a solenoid thing that is bolted into it.

Unplug both, and if your car goes back to normal they they are the problem.

You frankly don't need them, once makes your idle go to 3krpm on startup (for the cat) and the other 2krpm or something. I forget.

On an s4, you should be fine with the thermowax idle adjuster (make idle go to ~1200 rpm when the car is cold, afcilitates cold starts) and the stock idle adjuster.

My car did the same thing when those solenoids stopped working. (for other reasons then age :P)

 

I will try unpluging the BAC since I eliminated the ACV. You think it could have went bad just from sitting for a year? I dunno will check it out be sweet if thats the problem. I am gonna check all this stuff out in the morning will get back to you guys with the answer to my problem.

Also its been so long since I adjusted the TPS don't the wires for the bulbs go into the green plug next to the air intake? I tried to adjust it the other day and the bulbs were not coming on no matter what way I turned the adjuster maybe the bulbs are bad but the last time I used them they were fine.

 

Sitting for a year is bad for a motor unless it was stored properly, which doesn't usually happen it seems. The acid buildup in the oil and old coolant/fuel can cause real problems, seals can deteriorate, electrical systems can corrode. Did the motor get rebuilt and then sit for a year, or did the car sit then the motor was rebuilt just recently? That could make a difference. Use a voltmeter to adjust your TPS instead of the lights, that way you can get it spot on as well as see which way you're adjusting.

 

^ true enough, with the lights i had to do it about 2-3 times :P

 

Car sat then I rebuilt it. What kind of reading am I looking for on the meter? I've never used the meter to adjust it.

 

If I remember right The TPS should be 1k resistance? Still have to go and try everything out.

 

Ok well my car is now idling at about 1200rpm I can't get it any lower than that. I tried the BAC trick didnt work it made the car idle horribly. So here is where I stand now sorry bout the idot cluster beep lol. Took it for a quick ride don't remember it being so responsive and quick lol although it has been two years since the car has been it self.

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How long have you run it for after your rebuild?

I'm under the impression that I need to leave my rebuilt motor running for a while (sort of break in) before I can expect it to do things like crank great and have a perfect idle.

You may just need to adjust the idle post rebuild with all of the removal of everything (and now that you are making more power and have less load). Make sure you set the initial set.

I saw that you already made sure to stab the timing right, but you may just want to double check the precision with a timing light.

 

I have only ran it for maybe a total of an hour since I first fired it up. I am still in the process of checking it out with a timing light never used one before. I messed with the INS and tried adjusting the idle that way to came down very little though.

My problem right now is that the car don't want to start everytime like if it sits over night it will take a few mins to get it running any idea's?

I am considering putting the air pump back on if I can't resolve that issue.

 

A fresh rebuild is going to have some issues idling until the housings and seals have a chance to sear into each other and increase compression. I've noticed that engines will get smoother and smoother with each start and drive.

 

Odd, this was my fresh rebuild...
http://www.youtube.com/user/captainf.../1/ZwoZZYdXtbo

 

Sounds great this is my first rotary rebuild to. What did you do to get your idle so low. I have tried adjusting everything under the hood but won't go down anymore than shown my car used to idle as good as yours.

Also any suggestions on my start up issues.

 

Well here is where the idle stands now keeps getting better the more I drive the car.

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it takes time for the engine to build decent compression, at least 800 miles before it will be near peak compression and idle at its best.

it also needs to idle under 1k RPMs to be at base timing and idle smoothly, generally you will feel some slight misfires when the car isn't under a load and is revved up.

 

Looks like you are doing fine!
I run a standalone computer so... I am able to fine tune my idle. I actually keep it a bit higher around 900RPM.

 

So I am driving home from work last night and the battery gauge in the dash starts dropping and dropping till finally it stops on the line just before the bottom. All my lights went out while driving pulled into gas station and popped the hood. I thought to myself has to be the alternator not charging up the battery right. But the car was still idling around 700rpms but like crap so I turned the car off. I took a look at the fuses under the hood and bam there it was the main 80amp fuse was blown so had to be towed home. What in the world would have caused this to blow besides it just being and old fuse?

 

Ok so after replacing the main fuse the car starts but the alternator is not keeping up. I put one of those dual pulleys on it the other day has anyone ever heard of those causing problems such as the belts not being tight enough because other wise its my alternator. But im kinda refusing to believe that because the thing was brand new before the car blew maybe it went bad from sitting for a while who knows.

I set the TPS to 1k today to don't understand though why the car sputters so much when its rev'd up.

 

I found this thread on adjusting the Throttle body I think this will be very helpful when trying to set my idle up now. Also printed off some stuff from FSM should help out alot.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hermowax+screw

 

So after removing the throttle body and adjusting the fast idle screw my car is running and idling alot better and revs up alot smoother. Following that post I found helped out alot. Who would have thought a stupid little screw could clear up so much lol.

 

Funny thing is the fast idle screw needed so much adjustment that when I turn the TPS screw you can actually hear the engine change idle. Before you could turn the screw all you wanted and hear no change.