aka_rocket

so i finally have my rebuild finished. thanks to karack for a MAJOR portion of the work. now that its up and running (started the first time i tried), i would just like to know how a freshly rebuild engine feels like. i don't what to expect and don't know if mine feels right or wrong. low oil pressure is present on mine, which is at about 30-35lbs/inch. besides that, i can't go past 55-58 mph. initial moving off the line is like 35 mins (feels like it) from 0-25 mph. ofcourse my TPS is dead so that totally sucked. so far i have about 50 some odd miles on the rebuild from driving it home from karack's place then to school. i drove it back up to chico and ran a 48-58 all the way home. for the love of rotary, i couldn't go uphill and the fastest was maybe 62, and that was down a steep downhill. rpm range, it was around 2k to 2.5k. i couldn't go higher even if i wanted too. so yea, please let me know how a usual fresh rebuild is supposed to feel/operate like so i can gauge how mine is doing. mine's done the usual flooding on me a couple of times but the quick EGI trick fixes it for now. starting is also very hard. i have to constantly and repeating (alot) step on the gas pedal when i try cranking so it catches.

i read all the low oil pressure threads already but im still not sure what can be wrong. im pretty sure we did everything said in the threads. oil pellet from atkins, i believe karack checked the eccentric shaft (saw him).

this weekend, i will replace the feul filter, check all sensor connections. i already replaced the spark plugs when i got back to chico but haven't had a chance to check the leading and trailing coil packs. don't know for sure but when i replaced the plugs, the front housing plugs were totally burnt and ugly black while the rear were a nice brown/yellowish color.

oh yea. basically an S5 block with S4 intermediate iron and front cover. everything is S4. running on premix, no MOP.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

fix the tps.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i will list everything to check in case you didn't write t down.

1)find a good working TPS or test yours and adjust it to spec (i usually do 1 volt dead even at the ECU pin on a warmed engine key on engine off).
2)check your AFM, thermosensor, CAS, coil connectors and all engine sensors for a tight connection.
3)clean the connector to the oil pressure sending unit and take some sandpaper to the copper on the pressure sensor connection, i'm pretty sure i remember it being oily and dirty which can throw off the reading.
4)change the fuel filter and all your coolant hoses
5)double check your vacuum lines especially the pressure sensor one(from the middle of the intake manifold to the RF strut tower) to be sure they are all still in place and have a tight fit. i recommend getting some tighter fitting vacuum lines and replacing them one by one when you have the time though.
6) be sure you are getting spark to both leading and trailing plugs, i would recommend replacing the old plugs with new ones as well.


oil pressure should be a little higher than that normally, i did double check everything but i didn't like the looks of the connector looking back on it. i cleaned the oil jets and installed the thermo pellet, if the pressure is in fact low then the most likely cause is the front cover o-ring.

the power should feel as it did before the rebuild if not better, even with low compression it should run and produce plenty of power so you have a problem but where is the question we need to answer.

does the RPM race (go up) like the clutch is slipping when you try to accelerate?
the engine idles ok still right? sounds ok still as if firing both rotors and smooth at idle?

try to get as much info on how the engine feels or what it is doing when you drive so we can try and troubleshoot it.


you could have a clogged catalytic converter, if there still is one on there that is. if it was on it's last leg prior to the rebuild all of the coolant and oil could have pushed it over the edge and sent it into a meltdown.

geargrabber

ive had this same problem, uphills sucked ***, and the car doenst accelerate worth ****.

clogged cats. what tipped me off to this is one day when i came home from school at night, i poopped the hood and saw my manifold was glowing under the heat shields. And part of the first pre cat.

im sure its the first precat thats clogged, dont gut the main cat if its good-- you need that for emissions. Pre cats are expendible, just make sure your car is good and warm when you go get smogged, and leave the car running when you get there.


btw, theres a break-in period for a rebuild...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i know there was no pre cat left but i think the main cat may have taken a dive.

aka_rocket

yep, i know bout the break-in period. so, being that the car is running worst then before (it does feel stronger, just not running right), i'll go source some better vac hoses and coolant hoses, and any other ones i can get. i have two NA exhausts i can put on, the RP catbacks with the bonez hi-flo cat or the other one, catco cat with sebring catbacks. im not too worried about the exhaust setup. though now that you mention it, it does feel like something was shoved up its *** (u know, that kind of feeling). a muffled type feeling. it sounded fine last night when we first started it but now it has a low, muffled type exhaust sound. maybe the cat took a dive like you said. i will swap exhaust to see if it fixes anything. then the vac lines and down the list. karack, seemed like we did the front cover o-ring ok. if it comes to that, what's the usual reason it does do that? i read the mazdatrix o-ring page but not too sure. pinched or something?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

If I were you I would do a compression test. I was kind of freaking out when I got my TII rebuild running, (about 2 1/2 weeks ago) because it felt the way my N/A did when I blew the rear apex seal (low, buzzy exhaust note w. NO power). Thankfully when I did a compression test I got 80ish front and 70ish rear. Which are low numbers, but what should be expected. I would definitely do a compression test just for peace of mind, so you know you still have both rotors, lol.

To do a test:

-Buy a cheap, conventional tester from any auto parts store ($15).

-At the tip of the tester is a little springly deal called the 'check valve'. Remove this by gently unscewing it. Removing this allows the needle to bounce around so you can get an idea what the compression is for ALL the rotor faces (instead of just the HIGHEST).

-Install the adapter onto the end of the tester that fits your spark plug holes .

-Remove the lower spark plugs (might as well remove all of the plug wires)

-disconnect the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) by unplugging the white connector coming out of the top of the front cover.

-remove the EGI fuse (closest to the block) from the underhood fuse 'box'.

-Screw the comp tester into either of the lower spark plug holes

-have a friend get in the car, depress the clutch and crank for several seconds while you watch the needle bounce around. Keep cranking 'til you get an idea of the compression #'s.

-Repeat step above for the other spark plug hole.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Oh, BTW my rebuild is driving great. I fixed the big coolant leak (where the coolant hose goes through the firewall into the heater core). I adjusted the idle so that it doesn't stall when I stop. Tomorrow (today, lol) I'm fixing the oil leak under the turbo (hard line that goes into it somehow is loose). I have about 100 or so miles on it and I'm still unable to start it with the starter (only compression starts for me).

I rode in my friend Steve's (13bpower) TII today with 1200mi. on a fresh rebuild and that thing is STRONG. Granted he has the full Apexi N1 exhaust and N/A rotors it was still very impressive at 2psi of boost and 5k rpms.

good luck dude, and thanks agian Karack for helping me out a couple weeks ago with my "low oil pressure" problem.

aka_rocket

i've never ever done a compression test besides reading how to's. guess i will learn how to now. i wanted to learn how anyway. i will go check those things out as well. so what was the cause of your low oil pressue problem?

aka_rocket

this morning, i went to start the car and it wouldn't start. pulled the EGI and cranked it a couple time then popped the fuse back in. i cranked again and it started, slowly. i stepped on the gas a couple times to bring the rev up so it could catch. it does so then slowly sputters and dies a few seconds after i stop revving the car. didn't get the car started, too early in the morning to keep cranking it. vac. leak? weird thing is that oil pressure was at 60 lbs/in instead of usual 35 lbs/in. i also heard a loud gurgling sound from the rear. is it normal for the feul pump to gurgle like that. i just started premixing, so could that be related? i was by myself so i couldn't check the leading and trailing coils. i will try to do it later.

aka_rocket

alright, finally got it started again. i took it for a drive around the whole town and then went to the local pick n' pull and got myself a working TPS. installed it and my idle was constant. ah, never heard such a sweet sound (for a while now). the idle is constant at 2k rpm. i don't have any tools with me so i can't adjust it to 1-1.5k rpm so for now, it'll be at 2k. it feels a little stronger now, maybe because of the high rpm idle. i went over all the sensors (just checking) and plugs and any other thing that could be out of place. im probably not going to touch it anymore until i go home an have some tools.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the timing could also be out farther than i thought, when you get it back here i can set the base timing.

Bob_The_Normal

What to expect in a fresh rebuild?

Oh I don't know, this maybe?

;(

--Gary

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

jeesh! how'd you manage to put a hole in the rotor? ugh!

aka_rocket

oh crap. lol!

Bob_The_Normal

Small bolts that fall into the intake are bad.

Very... very... very.. ******* bad.

=/

(Sorry to thread jack... doh)

--Gary

kd86rx7

iTrader: (1)

3)clean the connector to the oil pressure sending unit and take some sandpaper to the copper on the pressure sensor connection, i'm pretty sure i remember it being oily and dirty which can throw off the reading.

where is this located>

eric

Dom_C

instal a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i stabbed the CAS in 1 tooth off, we got it running good last night, i will have to do a few more checks on the oil pressure, could be a bad oil pressure sender, i have about 5 laying around so i will probably swap one in real quick to see if there is a difference.

kd86rx7

iTrader: (1)

i cant turn on my car easily, everytime i want to turn it on, i have to jump the battery with another car, and inject oil into the lower spark plug wires take out the egi fuse, crank it three times put it back in and then the car will turn on. have to do everytime i turn off my car. why does it do that? the longest its been on for is like 10 mins. maybe i should let it sit longer? break in more?

eric.

aka_rocket

hey karack, car runs great now. TPS is a little jumpy still when cold but nothing too worried right now. around 1500 rpm, there's a real noticeable vibration. i don't know what could be causing it. pass that, the car's power comes in smooth all the way.

i caught the flu this weekend so i didn't come over to help you. sucks being sick though, haven't been sick in a long time. anyway, the car runs really nice now. i was able to put my bonez hi-flo cat and RP catback on it today. looks totally stock but the feeling and sound is great. i never new an NA could feel so alive. the exhaust note is awesome. i'll come pick up my leftover crap when i can, sorry to crowd your garage for so long eh. again, thanks a million.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

np man, just glad it is running good now.

the vibration if it is minor could just be from the poly motor mounts, i haven't used them before so i can't comment on how they should feel. we used the S5 front counterweight, rotors, and flywheel so everything should be in balance.

kd86rx7

iTrader: (1)

???

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

let it run for about 30 minutes then take it out for a drive, not going over 4k RPMs or getting on the gas hard. fresh rebuilds take time to build compression and are a bitch to start.

Chance

Is it normal for a fresh rebuild to run lower than normal vacuum until compression builds up, or does the lower compression have nothing to do with that?