Fresh Rebuild: no oil pressure
Fresh Rebuild: no oil pressure
Hi all,
I just did my first rebuild on a s5 turbo. During the build, I filled the oil pump with 10w-30 and the normal 5 quarts in the pan.
Currently, my problem is that I have no oil pressure. With the key in the ignition, the needle on the oil pressure gauge is jumping off the end; however, while cracking the needle either stays stagnant or drops a bit. The oil filer is dry so I dumped about a half of quart of oil into the oil filter pedestal passage and rotated the shaft counter-clockwise trying to prime the pump. Still no luck. Any ideas? Is the oil pressure regulator bad, something I missed in the build, or is this normal (which I strongly doubt)?
Thanks,
Joe
I just did my first rebuild on a s5 turbo. During the build, I filled the oil pump with 10w-30 and the normal 5 quarts in the pan.
Currently, my problem is that I have no oil pressure. With the key in the ignition, the needle on the oil pressure gauge is jumping off the end; however, while cracking the needle either stays stagnant or drops a bit. The oil filer is dry so I dumped about a half of quart of oil into the oil filter pedestal passage and rotated the shaft counter-clockwise trying to prime the pump. Still no luck. Any ideas? Is the oil pressure regulator bad, something I missed in the build, or is this normal (which I strongly doubt)?
Thanks,
Joe
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
usually you crank em for a while (60-90seconds) and they will build oil pressure and be good.
the one i'm working on now though did something like yours, i had to actually the engine -> oil cooler hose and fill it, and then put it back together, THEN it cranked and built oil pressure as normal. very weird.
the one i'm working on now though did something like yours, i had to actually the engine -> oil cooler hose and fill it, and then put it back together, THEN it cranked and built oil pressure as normal. very weird.
usually you crank em for a while (60-90seconds) and they will build oil pressure and be good.
the one i'm working on now though did something like yours, i had to actually the engine -> oil cooler hose and fill it, and then put it back together, THEN it cranked and built oil pressure as normal. very weird.
the one i'm working on now though did something like yours, i had to actually the engine -> oil cooler hose and fill it, and then put it back together, THEN it cranked and built oil pressure as normal. very weird.
I have been using the gauge in the dash. I thought that this was the issue too until I found the oil filter dry.
1. Is the oil pump properly installed with the woodruff key in place on the gear and the nut torqued down with the tab bent over?
2. Did you install the oil pressure regulator properly on the rear iron and torqued it to spec?
3. Is the double o-ring under the front cover properly seated?
The factory oil pressure gauge doesn't always register during cranking. Pull the egi and crank for 10 seconds at a time 5-6 times giving the starter time to cool off between. Re-check the oil level on the dipstick and add if needed. Start the car. If the oil pressure gauge doesn't move shut it off and try again with an aftermarket gauge. You should have used enough assembly lube during the build so nothing gets damaged from cranking before the motor primes.
2. Did you install the oil pressure regulator properly on the rear iron and torqued it to spec?
3. Is the double o-ring under the front cover properly seated?
The factory oil pressure gauge doesn't always register during cranking. Pull the egi and crank for 10 seconds at a time 5-6 times giving the starter time to cool off between. Re-check the oil level on the dipstick and add if needed. Start the car. If the oil pressure gauge doesn't move shut it off and try again with an aftermarket gauge. You should have used enough assembly lube during the build so nothing gets damaged from cranking before the motor primes.
Last edited by IRPerformance; Jan 5, 2016 at 09:09 PM.
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1. Is the oil pump properly installed with the woodruff key in place on the gear and the nut torqued down with the tab bent over?
2. Did you install the oil pressure regulator properly on the rear iron and torqued it to spec?
3. Is the double o-ring under the front cover properly seated?
The factory oil pressure gauge doesn't always register during cranking. Pull the egi and crank for 10 seconds at a time 5-6 times giving the starter time to cool off between. Re-check the oil level on the dipstick and add if needed. Start the car. If the oil pressure gauge doesn't move shut it off and try again with an aftermarket gauge. You should have used enough assembly lube during the build so nothing gets damaged from cranking before the motor primes.
2. Did you install the oil pressure regulator properly on the rear iron and torqued it to spec?
3. Is the double o-ring under the front cover properly seated?
The factory oil pressure gauge doesn't always register during cranking. Pull the egi and crank for 10 seconds at a time 5-6 times giving the starter time to cool off between. Re-check the oil level on the dipstick and add if needed. Start the car. If the oil pressure gauge doesn't move shut it off and try again with an aftermarket gauge. You should have used enough assembly lube during the build so nothing gets damaged from cranking before the motor primes.
I am sure that the woodruff key was properly seated in the groove but I am worried that I did not bend the washer over the nut far enough and it spun loose.
I did not check the oil pressure regulator when it was out (dumb on my part).
I am sure of the double o ring in the front cover.
Is there anyway to test the pressure regulator without taking off the pan? This is my number one worry since it was never inspected.
I tried multiple crack cycles but the same results. Would the factory gauage show too much pressure if it is dry, instead of nothing showing at all?
I know this one sounds dumb but did you make sure the outer oil pump rotor was in when you attached it? Or maybe the oil pressure relief on the front cover did you disassemble it at all maybe no piston or spring or both?
Last edited by heynoman; Jan 6, 2016 at 09:55 PM.
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
The oil pump assembly went back together and I filled it with oil before flipping it over to mount it. I did not take it apart but I remember taking a wrench to it to make sure it was tight; however, it won't tighted (almost like it was stripped) but I figured that's the way it was supposed to go... Maybe not?
the pump nut kept spinning even though the gear was stationary? that's a sign the pump key is missing, even if you didn't take it apart and even though earlier you were adamate that it was there, somehow.
^ What rotaryevolution said. One time I rebuilt an engine and was almost positive that I installed the oil pump gear onto the key correctly. I started it up and had oil pressure for 10 minutes, then it all of a sudden dropped to zero. Tore the engine back apart and found that when I put the oil pump gear on, the key had fallen behind the gear. It fell behind there in a way that allowed the gear to be loosely staked onto the pump and still turned the pump for a little while, but eventually the key slipped all the way out and the gear was free spinning on the pump. Causing no oil pressure and one sad rx7 owner. >:(
^ What rotaryevolution said. One time I rebuilt an engine and was almost positive that I installed the oil pump gear onto the key correctly. I started it up and had oil pressure for 10 minutes, then it all of a sudden dropped to zero. Tore the engine back apart and found that when I put the oil pump gear on, the key had fallen behind the gear. It fell behind there in a way that allowed the gear to be loosely staked onto the pump and still turned the pump for a little while, but eventually the key slipped all the way out and the gear was free spinning on the pump. Causing no oil pressure and one sad rx7 owner. >

you can check some of these by taking the oil pan off without taking the engine out of the car.
just to be sure though i would see if the oil filter is totally dry after cranking the engine one more time for 20 seconds.
just to be sure though i would see if the oil filter is totally dry after cranking the engine one more time for 20 seconds.







