fresh rebuild, new housings, starting issues..
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fresh rebuild, new housings, starting issues..
so i got my motor built by the local "rx7" guy... and it has a hard time starting. he said it shouldnt be hard to start because it has new housings...
s5 block
new housings
rx8 rotors, shaft, and hardened gears
microtech lt10
550primary
1600secondary
he installed racing beat dual sheave pulley, i dropped in the cas between 10 atdc, and 0 tdc (5 atdc), oil primed the motor and fuel system... went to start it and fail. crank crank crank almost wants to catch but doesnt. pull started it and it ran.. but a little rough, i assumed it was loaded up from the assembly lube and atf and fuel but i ran it for 45 mins and still was rough.
is this normal? what should i expect from a fresh build with new housings. i had the idle set to 1500 cuz once i got to 750 ish it would shake like crazy and die. tried to start it up after and it wouldnt start. im wondering if my cas is set incorrectly however i triple checked it and its lined up at 5 degrees.
any input would be great.
s5 block
new housings
rx8 rotors, shaft, and hardened gears
microtech lt10
550primary
1600secondary
he installed racing beat dual sheave pulley, i dropped in the cas between 10 atdc, and 0 tdc (5 atdc), oil primed the motor and fuel system... went to start it and fail. crank crank crank almost wants to catch but doesnt. pull started it and it ran.. but a little rough, i assumed it was loaded up from the assembly lube and atf and fuel but i ran it for 45 mins and still was rough.
is this normal? what should i expect from a fresh build with new housings. i had the idle set to 1500 cuz once i got to 750 ish it would shake like crazy and die. tried to start it up after and it wouldnt start. im wondering if my cas is set incorrectly however i triple checked it and its lined up at 5 degrees.
any input would be great.
#2
Trunk Ornament
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#1 - Please don't use words like "cuz" in the place of because. It's not polite to murder English like that.
With a fresh rebuild that includes new housings, you should have very good compression. Try a compression check. If you paid for a rebuild with new housings and get anything less than 100 psi on each face, you need to take it back.
With a fresh rebuild that includes new housings, you should have very good compression. Try a compression check. If you paid for a rebuild with new housings and get anything less than 100 psi on each face, you need to take it back.
#4
PedoBear
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With a fresh rebuild that includes new housings, you should have very good compression. Try a compression check. If you paid for a rebuild with new housings and get anything less than 100 psi on each face, you need to take it back.
#5
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#6
87 SE WITH S5 T2 SWAP
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Okay you can have brand new housings,irons,seals ect but that only counts for some of the compression,if side seals were not fitted right,corner seals installed wrong(yes is possible corner seals go in a certain way)the motor will suffer and compression will never build up.
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Is this a turbo engine? That's a lot of fuel for an NA and very high compression for a turbo engine.
Sounds like is just needs to be tuned. Less fuel at idle. The stock Microtech map doesn't have enough fuel in the crank map (hard starting ) but has way too much in the main fuel map.
Sounds like is just needs to be tuned. Less fuel at idle. The stock Microtech map doesn't have enough fuel in the crank map (hard starting ) but has way too much in the main fuel map.
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Is this a turbo engine? That's a lot of fuel for an NA and very high compression for a turbo engine.
Sounds like is just needs to be tuned. Less fuel at idle. The stock Microtech map doesn't have enough fuel in the crank map (hard starting ) but has way too much in the main fuel map.
Sounds like is just needs to be tuned. Less fuel at idle. The stock Microtech map doesn't have enough fuel in the crank map (hard starting ) but has way too much in the main fuel map.
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if the engine was built properly, and everything is installed right, the ECU will need tuning. an engine with a lot of compression needs less fuel than a tired low compression one.
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Schrader valve out
Front rotor
55 55 55 - faces look pretty even
Rear rotor
85 85 85
Schrader valve in
Front rotor
90
Rear rotor
100
I talked to one of the guys at the shop and he said compression is low because the seals need to wear into the housings blah blah blah. Is this right? And I might have a problem with my primary injectors... I noticed the rear plug is more wet than the front one...maybe the front injector is plugged or spray pattern blows causing rough running condition.
Coil wiring appears to be correct, no crossed plug wires lol
Front rotor
55 55 55 - faces look pretty even
Rear rotor
85 85 85
Schrader valve in
Front rotor
90
Rear rotor
100
I talked to one of the guys at the shop and he said compression is low because the seals need to wear into the housings blah blah blah. Is this right? And I might have a problem with my primary injectors... I noticed the rear plug is more wet than the front one...maybe the front injector is plugged or spray pattern blows causing rough running condition.
Coil wiring appears to be correct, no crossed plug wires lol
#14
Boosted. I got BLOWN!!!
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^try another pair of injectors. Also at this point, do a flood clear. Crank the engine over, but disable the injectors. Let it get rid of all that fuel that's soaking your plugs. Then put a little oil in each housing, and turn it by hand a few times. Then start again.
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Schrader valve out
Front rotor
55 55 55 - faces look pretty even
Rear rotor
85 85 85
Schrader valve in
Front rotor
90
Rear rotor
100
I talked to one of the guys at the shop and he said compression is low because the seals need to wear into the housings blah blah blah. Is this right? And I might have a problem with my primary injectors... I noticed the rear plug is more wet than the front one...maybe the front injector is plugged or spray pattern blows causing rough running condition.
Coil wiring appears to be correct, no crossed plug wires lol
Front rotor
55 55 55 - faces look pretty even
Rear rotor
85 85 85
Schrader valve in
Front rotor
90
Rear rotor
100
I talked to one of the guys at the shop and he said compression is low because the seals need to wear into the housings blah blah blah. Is this right? And I might have a problem with my primary injectors... I noticed the rear plug is more wet than the front one...maybe the front injector is plugged or spray pattern blows causing rough running condition.
Coil wiring appears to be correct, no crossed plug wires lol
When Engine is Flooded Compression will be very low, When going from Old engine to New Engine the Settings and idle will be off. Im sure it will need to get tuned to the new engine as i have had the same issues when changing engines. I always had to tune idle Among other things
Last edited by rx7_FREAKKK; 04-10-12 at 07:10 PM.
#16
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Compression builds up after some time with a new engine, thats not just rotary..
Running in an engine is nothing more then taking it a bit easy untill everything has mated a little.
Sounds to me its tuning related.
A pull start worked, that means it skips the cranking cycle and thus starting it in the main map.
Running in an engine is nothing more then taking it a bit easy untill everything has mated a little.
Sounds to me its tuning related.
A pull start worked, that means it skips the cranking cycle and thus starting it in the main map.
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