Fresh rebuild and hard to start - ideas and tips?
11-14-11, 10:39 AM
#26
looks like 50 psi on front rotor and 80 on the rear.
if something got dropped into the motor it would give a result of 0.
have him fix his screw up which could be using poor parts without inspecting them thoroughly enough.
you could try running the engine longer and see if the numbers come up but seems something is going on in that front housing.
an iron can only crack if you let it sit with straight water in the block or boosted the engine past 20psi on pump fuel.
if something got dropped into the motor it would give a result of 0.
have him fix his screw up which could be using poor parts without inspecting them thoroughly enough.
you could try running the engine longer and see if the numbers come up but seems something is going on in that front housing.
an iron can only crack if you let it sit with straight water in the block or boosted the engine past 20psi on pump fuel.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-14-11 at 10:41 AM.
11-14-11, 11:29 AM
#27
looks like 50 psi on front rotor and 80 on the rear.
if something got dropped into the motor it would give a result of 0.
have him fix his screw up which could be using poor parts without inspecting them thoroughly enough.
you could try running the engine longer and see if the numbers come up but seems something is going on in that front housing.
an iron can only crack if you let it sit with straight water in the block or boosted the engine past 20psi on pump fuel.
if something got dropped into the motor it would give a result of 0.
have him fix his screw up which could be using poor parts without inspecting them thoroughly enough.
you could try running the engine longer and see if the numbers come up but seems something is going on in that front housing.
an iron can only crack if you let it sit with straight water in the block or boosted the engine past 20psi on pump fuel.
I'm guessing your builder used a housing that was worn beyond use. Those pulses are even 30s. Even indicates a problem with the housing. I would mark those housings with something like a metal scribe and have the guy show you the housings when he takes it back apart. Pay close attention to the front housing. Compare the wear surface of the front housing to that of the rear. I'm guessing there is a deep groove in the wear surface of the front housing. Maybe some chrome flaking. Read up about how much wear is acceptable. Take pictures of the wear inside the housings.
http://www.turborx7.com/rereplacement.htm
11-14-11, 11:51 AM
#28
I purchased the housings. They were purchased myself through someone the builder knew. I personally looked at them and they showed absolutely no visible signs of defects or wear. They look like they were like new. Irons were freshly lapped by mazdatrix and purchased by myself from mr. Japan2la. Housing were definitely not worn.
11-14-11, 01:50 PM
#30
with low compression figures like you are seeing, if the housings are good, you have semi pinched apex seals or a side of the rotor with stuck side seals, all of which are on the builder. the engine i referenced had just under 1 year of use but had accumulated 10k miles, a bit of a different story than a motor that hardly started to begin with.
perhaps he will figure it out and fix it on his own and just used the cost to make sure he doesn't eat dirt like i did on that one motor. it is possible after all that something small got into the engine during assembly and pinched each slot of the front rotor which may allow the seals to move a small amount to build some compression but not much. in which case you should be able to see it without tearing the motor completely apart.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-14-11 at 01:57 PM.
11-16-11, 07:49 PM
#31
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I Have something I kinda wanted to add, I've been trying to find a solution to the "Fresh re-build hard to start" question. I've been having a hell of a time getting my re-build to start after being driven for 8k then removed and set on a shop floor. YOU PULL START THE CAR BEHIND A TRUCK AND POP THE CLUTCH IN 2ND!!! Mine started after 2 adjustments, and 500ft of pull. =]
11-16-11, 08:07 PM
#32
i always use push starting as a last resort, well sort of. if i can't get it fired up by deflooding and oil in the chambers then you have a SERIOUS problem. only car i thought about push starting was a S5 turbo that was siezed that i worked loose and was kind of wanting to fire but just not quite there, he brought me the motor disassembled and every seal was stuck, rusted and pitting in the irons as well as chunks of chrome missing from the housings and rust pits formed in the steel liners, i was still hearing that motor at least pop once in a while.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-16-11 at 08:09 PM.
11-19-11, 06:07 AM
#33
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I'm having a similar issue and was wondering what my best plan of attack would be.
I rebuilt the engine myself, started right up on the first try. Started everytime actually up till about a week and a half ago. I haven't driven it other than about 500 ft before parking it. Went to start it again after it had sat for week and it won't start. It cranks, but just won't start. I pulled the new plugs out and wiped them clean and sprayed some brake cleaner on the ends and blew them out. Top plugs were wet with fuel and all had a trace of oil on the ends. After putting them back in, the car seemed like it was slightly closer to starting, but wouldn't. I had done a compression test on the engine when it was in running condition just to see if the readings were better from when I rebuilt it. They were both higher. So what should I check/do next? Possibly flooded? Try the oil trick?
I rebuilt the engine myself, started right up on the first try. Started everytime actually up till about a week and a half ago. I haven't driven it other than about 500 ft before parking it. Went to start it again after it had sat for week and it won't start. It cranks, but just won't start. I pulled the new plugs out and wiped them clean and sprayed some brake cleaner on the ends and blew them out. Top plugs were wet with fuel and all had a trace of oil on the ends. After putting them back in, the car seemed like it was slightly closer to starting, but wouldn't. I had done a compression test on the engine when it was in running condition just to see if the readings were better from when I rebuilt it. They were both higher. So what should I check/do next? Possibly flooded? Try the oil trick?
11-21-11, 06:53 PM
#38
Could be a fault of the primary injectors or the wiring/plugs to the primaries. Secondaries start working at 3800 rpm so below that level the primaries bare the brunt of the work.
If the plugs to the injectors are secure and the wires in each plug are not pulled back then there should be 12 volts w/key to on at pin 3E and 3C of the ECU.
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