tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

I'm having a hard time starting my girlfriends s4 t2 after a fresh rebuild. The plugs kept getting saturated with fuel and vaseline. My rotoman Mr SMG said to take the intake off and pour a cap full of oil down each runner. Also to preheat the plugs (heat gun). Afterwards, it started imediatly on the first crank. However, after 20 seconds I had to shut the car off because I forgot to connect a small coolant hose.

Since then I have not been able to get the car started again. I dont undertand why its so hard to start. It was easier to start when it had 60psi! Lol I really don't want to take the uim off again. What would you guys sugest? Pour a cap of oil down the trailing plug holes?

Build
S4 rotors, eshaft and front cover/omp
S5 irons freshly lapped
S6 rotor housings like new
Coolant lines for turbo re-routed
No airpump or egr

Fluids and such
IdEMITSU 20w-50 full synthetic oil
IdEMITSU synthetic premix .5oz/1gal
New L&T NGK plugs

Timing was double checked.

Any tips would be appreciated!

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Pour the oil in through the leading plug holes.

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

sometimes the seals get stuck on the rotor, apex and sides or corner, and makes fresh rebuild hard to start. When you assemble the rotors you want all the seals to slide and move freely, if its tight and stuck itl cause the hard starting.. The reason why pouring down atf or thick oil down runners work because it helps seal the cambers, making better compression.. At this point id just pour some oil down the runners or do down hill push start or pull start... Then get the timming light ready

xXn3v3Rsat!fi3dXx

My 13b has been rebuilt but the guy I bought it from put 8k on it before he parked it. I'm only getting like a sputter or a backfire. Any suggestions?

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Just use a funnel and a short length of hose and pour the oil into the spark plug holes while the plugs are removed.

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

Fully charged good battery and a fuel pump cut off switch. Crank it with the gas pedal fully depressed and pump off for 5-10 seconds then while still spinning flip the switch on.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the tips guys.



I made a custom oil funnel similar to what @pvillknight7 suggested. Poured 2 caps of oil in each leading hole. No luck started. Pulled egi and cleared out the housings. I'll try again one more time with only 1 cap of oil this time?

@rx7ridah wouldn't pulling the egi in effect do the same thing? Or is having the engine still turning necessary? I have a battery charger hooked up to the battery in the car.

Thanks again guys. I'll keep you posted.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Using 1 cap of oil in each rotor didn't work. I'm Getting burnt out. Today was day 3 on trying to start it. I'm thinking I might just have to try what @dkwasherexd suggested and pop start it tomorrow if I can't find an alternate idea. It just stinks because if pop starting it does not work, I have to drive the pay loader down the hill and tie a chain around the forks and drive the payloader backwards up the street.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Nice funnel system!

It sounds like you're doing the right things but try them in this order:

Remove all the spark plugs and the EGI fuse. Hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while you crank the engine for 10 seconds. Count it out loud.
Put the battery on charge and clean the spark plugs with a wire brush, carb cleaner and compressed air. Come back in an hour and pour about 1/4 cup of oil into each of the lower spark plug holes. Crank the engine so it spins for 2 seconds. Install the spark plugs and the EGI fuse. Crank it over and don't touch the accelerator pedal until the engine catches. When the engine does start press the accelerator down about half way to keep it running. Keep the rpms around 2.5K until the coolant gauge needle moves then the engine should have enough compression to run on it's own.

The full pump cut switch does the same thing as pulling the EGI fuse.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Thank you for taking the time to write that @pvillkight7. I'll try it first thing in the morning since I have to wait an hour. I've been cleaning the new spark plugs with an air compressor and preheating them with a heat gun. Would putting the old plugs in when I crank it over for 2 seconds with oil and egi out be a good idea to contain the oil (and mess)?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

If your plugs are still being drowned in fuel (and the car won't start) you could have a stuck injector. I had a stuck injector and nothing I did would get the car to start.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

I hope they are not stuck. Melissa sent them to RC for cleaning and they all spec'd well. How did you find out that yours was stuck?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Well, I heard a weird pop noise and a moving liquid sound. My friends and I looked all over the engine bay and couldn't see anything. We even had the fire extinguisher ready I have a standalone computer so with key to on you would hear the fuel pump prime. I checked the fuel pressure gauge and saw that it immediately dropped to 0 psi. I knew the fuel was dumping out fast from something. With no visible/odor leak it turned out it was an injector. When I sent them out for rebuild it was confirmed.

TTrashFC

iTrader: (1)

I had the opposite happen to me with the injectors. I have been having trouble passin smog with my 87 Tii and checked almost everything you could check without removing the uim. So I pulled it and checked that the injectors were plugged in the right order(very important connector 1 to injector 1 etc). so I check this out and they were good, but I pulled them to check the spray pattern, and found that one of them wasnt even spraying. I had the pump running to pressurize the rail and I applied my own 12v supply to the injectors and they all clicked but nothing came out of one of them. I have since replaced them, but that sucked to diagnose.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

I'd put a an old towel or t-shirt over the spark plug holes to catch any oil that sprays out.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Thanks @pvillkight7. Your technique worked right away!

Started and kept foot at 3k, slowly working down to 2k.
Half hour later it got up to temp (1/4 on guage for s4).
Car still wouldn't idle on its own.
Decided to pull out of garage to test clutch.
Clutch was so light and non-grippy that I stalled it.
Car wouldn't start on its own just by turning the key.
Noticed small oil leak somewhere near the turbo. :/

I'm getting really annoyed and frustrated with this car. Taking a break for now.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Set the idle to 2K for the first half hour or so of running. Then you'll have to go around the throttle body and make all the adjustments. Slowly lower the idle, readjust the TPS, lower the idle, readjust the TPS, etc. Repeat this until you have about a 1200 RPM idle. Set the timing as best as you can. Leave the idle that high for at least the first few hundred miles until the seals bed in. Then you can set the proper 750RPM idle, readjust the TPS, adjust the idle mixture (may need to be slightly rich for the first thousand or so miles). Set the timing to stock.

It jus needs a bit more time.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

30/70psi. I'm so fucked. I want to cry.

Thanks for trying to help guys.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Who rebuilt the motor? new seals/springs? Man, you shouldn't have this much trouble

All the engine at IRP pretty much start up and idle at 1000 rpm with no drama. A little smoke from assembly lube, but that's it.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

smg944 rebuilt it.

Used new RA super seals and all new side seals. I'm probably going to have to either sell this car or my ninja now. I'm stressing out.

bumpstart

go through the procedure again
first lift the idle throttle stop and calibrate the tps using the ohm method, engine off

when you get it started, hold revs around 2.5 k till you see the temp needle move and then lift the rpm to 6000 rpm and hold the engine there for a good 10 secs at a time
float the revs down slowly and repeat the procedure after another 10 secs, repeat

i expect you have some seal binding issues and it may take a little rev time to free up
and that the compression result you have may be compounded if one chamber is very flooded

if so it may pay to see if swapping the injectors left for right to see if the other rotor now gets the low comp or flood issue

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

When I rebuilt mines it was very hard to start and stay alive with 50-60psi.
Every time I got it started by putting oil in to build compression, I let it idle at 2krpm for 3-4 hours for 2 days with free reving occasionally. While it was idling I looked for leaks, fix other little things and such. On the third day, it still wouldnt start unless I pour in some oil. I lowered the idle to 1.5krpm and tried my chance at driving it around. Drove it normally, and occasional hard pulls and I notice my vacuum is reading much higher when at idle. Before it was at 10mmhg at 1.5k, at the same rpm it was now reading 16mmhg. So I know compression was building up. After the drive I shut it off and it had hot start problems from the compression being low, but after a week of driving it, the compression went up and started with no problem when engine is hot or cold.

The thing is, sometimes, it takes a long time for compression to build up for whatever reason. Took me a week of driving. Mind you, I did use old housings.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

^ Black_Knight's story should keep you hopeful. Don't give up man.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

surprises me people are willing to toss in housings that would result in such low compression figures.

truth is, after cutting many sets of housings, even housings that appear to be good have plenty of gouging that is hard to see. those were housings i thought were good so it changed my whole perspective of using used housings.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Well, I got ahold of mr smg944. Apparently, I wasn't doing a compression get correctly. He said pushing in the valve lets you compare pulses, but let it go for the highest face compression reading. Rear housing is very well, but the front is definately done :/ He thinks either an iron cracked or I dropped something into the engine in all my rediculous attempts to get this engine running. Who knows until a tear down.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hP-Chkg5Ts4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa65G0OzOk8

No time for tear down again, so unfortunately something has to go. This rebuild cost me over 3000$ and totaled $4200.