incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

So I have an S5 turbo; goopy housings, atkins master kit, atkins rotor kit, RA classic seals + springs.

I just got the motor starting today. It won't idle, but that's probably from a vacuum leak. I just have the TMIC on with no clamps. (plan on running AWIC when the parts come in so I didn't bother)

Anyways, its run for about 5-10 mins total now. The front main, oil pan, + oil return line off the turbo all leak. There's probably puddle of oil under the turbo the size of a small cantaloup on the ground. I'd say 3-5". The oil pan is seeping. The front main is leaking down but not dripping off the motor yet.

Is this normal? I figure that maybe the oil pan is bent, + there may as well be a hole in the oil return line. But what about the front main?

Also, my BAC valve was making this odd noise when the car was keyed in the on position. I would unplug it then the noise would stop. Should I just ditch it? Or is there something bigger at fault here?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

a leak is not part of the break in process, a rebuilt engine should not leak oil. it will not go away, only get worse over time. also, if you scuffed up the front hub seal surface the oil seals do not like a rough surface, polish it with a fine emery cloth.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Is red scotch brite too abrasive?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i don't know, normally i clean them up to a near chrome finish with 1000 grit. one seal failed shortly after assembly where i had put it on the wire wheel to clean it, the surface appeared smooth but apparently the seal still did not like it. so now if i ever touch the seal surface with any type of abrasive i feel it then needs to be nearly polished or it may give problems. also consider crankcase pressure, are the vents on the filler/center iron capped? the engine needs to breathe or it will start puking oil no matter what you do.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Well that's my problem. I know I cleaned the turbo oil like w a wire wheel. I think it may have been kinked and made a crack in it too. I'll get new for that.

As far as capping lines I'll have to double check. It wouldn't surprise me if they were capped.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

I took off the oil lines. One of the gaskets was only squishes half way around the outside of the bolt holes. Meaning the flange was bowed inwards. So I found another line, then wet sanded all the mating surfaces. Then a good coat of black rtv on both sides of the gasket and bam!

I ran her tonight - it was much better. It idled well. Until it warmed up, then it died. I noticed a lot of white smoke from the exhaust again. Am I right in thinking that there's a coolant leak somewhere when it warms up? I just have water in it right now - although there is a good amount of stuff in it from the heater core.

I'm gunna try and cap off the line from the t stat to the rear iron and see what that does. And I took the t stat out as well. Or I'll try my other throttle body.


Any other suggestions?

jjwalker

The engine will overheat without the t-stat!

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

I won't be running it without the thermostat for long. Just to see if it's a leak in the throttle body somewhere or if it's elsewhere.

Now that I think about it more, there's nothing after the thermostat; just goes back to the radiator. So it probably is a leak in the throttle body somewhere. Gotta wait till I get home to do more tests.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Ended up capping off the coolant lines to the bac and unplugged it. Ran it without the tstat for a bit and it ran great. Put the tstat back in and ran fantastic again. But my coolant gauge is sticky - only moves up when I tap on the cluster. I'll pull that and get it to work. Same w the fuel gauge. It says it's full when I know it's not.