jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I took my S5 port actuators off, cleaned them and verified they were functioning properly. Now the rod portion in the LIM are frozen and won't rotate. They spent all day soaking in carb cleaner and they are still frozen solid. I was going to try to remove them but saw a C-clip which detoured me because I don't have a replacement, and I read horror stories in the archives that people tend to break the rod. Any advice on how to free these rods up (without removing preferred)??

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

soak it in PB blaster for about a day, toss it in the oven at about 350 for about 15 minutes then try to work it loose with some channel locks from the cam end, gently but do use a little bit of arm.

yes when they seize they are a royal pain to free up. broken a few myself, sometimes they just don't want to be salvaged.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info and I have plenty of PB Blaster. I never thought about using the oven.

These rods are weird. They feel flexible and when I place a magnet on the fork it it doesn't take so I guess they are not steel. Cant tell what the threaded portion is made of?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

pretty sure the inboard portions are stainless steel, perhaps some parts are spring steel which may not be magnetic.

littlebit421

I just tried to free up the rods on mine last weekend to no success and I broke the one on the front. So do be easy with them.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I sprayed the the stuck rods with PB Blaster one night, and some Sea Foam formula I never tried before the next night. Placed in oven at 325F for 15 minutes. I was able to turn one rod but it feels extremely tight. I'm hoping if I do this a few more nights, it will free up with each bake??

Picture 2 is a sleeve from the housing before, and picture 3 is after. They came out good and shiny.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

hopefully it should, it could be that the brass bushing is twisting inside the LIM which technically you can remove with the rod if you free it up enough, once out it's a bit easier to remove the bushing from the rod with some map gas and a vice.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I did a second bake and they are extremely tight still. Im not sure how easily they should move, but they are tight. I think they are going to have to come out. I'm not sure how to remove the rods? I didn't see a anything on the 5/6 port set up in the FSM that addresses the rods. Any tips on how to remove these so I can really clean them up good?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

there should be a "C" locking clip that holds it into the LIM under the lock plate, remove all that and it should hopefully come out from the outside with some coercing.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Ok, is the c-clip reuseable? I hope to try one more bake for an extended period (~1 hr) and then Sat go for the removal attempt.

Rotank

iTrader: (2)

The cycle of heating and cooling is what breaks stuff loose, not just being hot. More cycles would do better than just leaving it in longer. Other than that and just letting it sit in a penetrating lubricant there is not much you can do unstick it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yep, it's not so much a clip but a retaining ring.

gerald m

Let it cool to room temp after the cook .. before attempting to remove ..The rod also expands in the hole keeping it tight .. It might possibly be a little easier with it cool .. Rotank is right more frequent heating and short times will do more ..with a long heat the rod expands to much and keeps it tight in the hole . If you have a torch it might be better than an oven ,then you can direct the heat where you need it instead of everywhere but it is important to be hot and not just warm .. keep worrying it you will succeed .. Another good example of the system never being serviced and checked regularly to see if it is working ..good luck

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Good tips here. I was just going to heat longer thinking 15 minutes wasn't enough to melt away the carbon. I did buy a can of Freeze Out I thought I'd try too after baking some more.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I decided to abort removing the rods and did more bake cycles instead. It gets easier to rotate the rod once I remove it from the oven, but when it cools down it is tight! Is this considered normal? I was thinking eventually I should be able to rotate by hand at room temperature??

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

once it gets to a point it should become easy to rotate and work all the crap out of it while keeping it well lubricated.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Baking was slowly working but I got impatient and bought a Bernzomatic torch for $25. It worked one free in no time and I can move it using my finger tips; the other is taking much longer for some reason? I did torch the threaded section on one rod so I hope its ok. Before I assemble the engine together what do I lubricate these with with? moly, graphite, etc/?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

engine assembly lube. it will eventually cook off but the oil from reciprocating intake pulses will lube it up after that.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Ok, assembly lube it will be. Thanks.

gerald m

Remember there is only one way to keep the port valves working good and that is to make them work and drive it the way it was intended ==Well at least when no one is watching .. hope it works good for you ..

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

That sounds right and I will take your advice. I'm still trying to free up the rear rod. Some reason it seems to bind and I cant move it by hand. With pliers it turns somewhat easy, but when moving by fingers it wont move much. I think maybe I over torched it and maybe warped it? I'll keep at it.

gerald m

The rods should be removed and buff the rust and crap off , It's not a hard thing to do . Even if it feels loose you can bet that the rod has little or no clearance and will stick again sooner than later ( it's not the tight fit in the hole that seals them it is the little seal under the C clip and washer that seals the rod .. The rod needs clearance or it could stick again when it gets hot .. The C clips and so on if they get screwed up can be easily found .. Now , you have them loosened up so go the rest of the way and make them work proper remove them and clean them .. in the end you will be happy you did it will go like stink ..

RawrZac212

id suggest to put it in the freezer overnight. and then bake it in the oven during the next day. the rapid expansion should get that baby loose.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

or crack the aluminum..

rapid thermal change isn't a good idea. try one or the other, not both at the same time.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Oops, I did the freezer and torch thing, but luckily I didn't torch long for your very reason Karack. I'm thinking I warped the shaft previous to this. If I rotate it binds, but I noticed the plane the cam end rotates seems to not look parallel with the LIM when looking from the side. Not sure this makes sense the way I explain? But the other shaft cam looks nice and level. So I'll try a few more heat cycles, but Im convinced now it needs to come out. Besides I think gerald-m has a valid point.

I looked in the FSM (90') and there is a c-clip, what appears to be a washer or spacer, and seal. Do I need to order all these or are they all reuseable? Does the c-lip just pop off- With the little plate in the way what is the best way to approach removal?