guys, i found these pics posted from rotaryinspired in the performance forum. he's saying that they work well... but aren't they way too far into the oil ring path???
opinions?

 

God why do you lot always blather on about such ***** sized port jobs.
This is what you should be focusing on.

 

what kinda port is that and ..... what is ur idle rpm ? 2500 ish im guessing? :P

 

People will try and tell you thats a j-port, but its not, its just a proper bridgeport. Idle would be about 2000 on that.

 

yeah amazing...
that would be some power above 7000rpm i guess!

but what about my thread topic... the pics...any opinions?

 

DAM!!!!! that some big portings. my friend takes 6 port plates and makes big bridge port out of them and they idle at 2500 RPM,that looks like a turbo II ones right? and about the set of pics nice job did you did them and they are not that close to the water jacket o ring

 

hey guys, come on!!!!!!!!!!

WHAT ABOUT THE PORTING GOING IN THE OIL RING PATH IN THE FIRST SET OF PICS POSTED BY ME?????????????

 

thats the first thing i noticed.....

 

They do look like their cut a few MM into the oil ring area. It is possible they don't smoke now, but as the engine wears they are going to start to burn a lot of oil. You can port 1 or two MM into the oil ring area without too much trouble but past that you're making an oil burner...

I don't know about you, but I like my engines to last past 5,000 KM.

Besides why make huge j-ports like that when you can make an easy and reliable peripheral port? You'll make much more power, and have a better behaved engine with no change of internal water leakage associated with j-ports...

 

thanks aaron for the first practical contribution!!

i was wondering 'cause i did the mistake and ported 1.5mm inwards! look at my pics...
are the housings trashed??

 

I think you're probably fine.

 

Man, Thats some sloppy *****.

 

"probably"... i would go crazy if i had to take the revbuilt engine apart again, just because it smokes like ****! i once put the housings together with one rotor and the eshaft and looked through the intake runners, and i could see that the oil ring is not supported about 4-5degrees of revolution... you think that there will be no oiling issues?
doesn't the inner oil ring hold back the biggest amount anyway??

 

Not supported at all?! Or just a little? If it's not supported at all, you have a problem.

It's kind of hard to make these judgements on a computer screen with an imaginary rotor.

 

i know
if i look throug the runner, i can barely see that the oil ring is exposing itself while passing the intake port, i'm not quite sure but i think the shiny line on the ring (sealing line) is shortly exposed! but i only ported inwards about 1.5mm!! i thought that would be possible... don't flame me...

 

second port looks good airoworks. is that your first time? first one looks a bit odd to me, might be the angle of the picture

 

If you can see the WHOLE ring, then you will probably have an issue. But if you only see part of it you shouldn't worry too much.

 

yes it was my first time porting!

you can see the whole ring at one time when the rotor is nearest to the port... but man, if so, the stock port is already ******* close to exposing the oil ring 'cause i only ported 1.5mm inwards!
think i'll have to throw the irons away

i have a set of FD irons, i'll have to stick with them. will have to modify my lim to fit to these REW irons...

 

Might be ok. Id at least run it and try it out and see what happens

 

might be... i don't like being unsure...

it's been a whole lot of work so far and it's not even close to done yet, i'm improving many things of the car at the moment... one thing i don't want is having to take the engine out and apart again in spring!

 

i think you should redo it just so you're not worrying about it.

 

money is everything. if you have enough to throw around then redo it. if not try it like i said. everything might be fine

 

Here's some porting pictures to inspire you: http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/EnginePo...ng/12.jpg.html

 

thanks for the link! i have tons of porting pics so far, but i didn't know that link

i decided to use the FD plates! did some comaprison and measured some things...
i have a complete shortblock of an FD so i'll rebuild that one and port it (the right way)

the LIM of my FC doesn't fit, but 3 bolt locations are already fine. i'll have to port match the significantly larger runners of the REW plates, mod the tunnels for the primaries, drill some wholes and threads for the engine mounts and close the water passage for the turbo (will feed it from the the returning heater line). the whole FC LIM will sit approx. 30mm higher.
pro's: bigger runners, hardened gears, 3-window gears, enforced rear plate, plates have half the mileage of my FC plates, higher oil pressure...
AND: PORTS ARE STILL STOCK

 

anyone can turn a 6-port into a uni-port whats the big deal....and how much power did it make and how long did it last... I would have to agree with Aaron on this one, P-port would be wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better for power drivability and reliability

as far as the first pictures... I wouldn't run that center plate in my car