I think youd need to shorten the straps, other than that it should be the same as the chassis is basically the same thing...just a slightly smaller tank, 2-3 gallons IIRC. You'd also need the s4 fuelpump bracket to suit the shorter tank.

I know a local guy that would have an s5 tank and stuff too, if you'd rather do that. He's none too quick about getting stuff pulled and shipped though, it's just a side job for him.

 

Kevin, could you ship the fuel pump mount/bracket with? And how could I go about shortening the straps, are they adjustable?

 

I think you;d have to drill new holes in the ends or something...never really looked.

 

Not really sure, It shoulds like it might be a pita to get the s4 tank to mount up properly in the s5 chasis if you have to move those straps around. The s4 tank is just shorter (lengthwise?)

 

I went to NAPA today and asked the guys there that run their racecar on the local dirt track during the summer-- figured they might have some ideas. He said he didn't really know anyone that would be too willing wo weld the tank. That I could call around, but mentioned how much welders don't like used gastanks.

He suggested some of this epoxy putty stuff meant especially for gastanks. Its only applicable ~65degrees, and its 30 outside right now, so I plan on dropping the tank and then bringing it in and let it warm up.

I think it might work, the abrasion im assuming is near teh top of the tank, after about 1/2 tank, the dripping appears to have stopped.

 

man just get the s4 tank and make it go in the car, you're better off hacking the mounts than patching the hole with jb weld!

 

$4.00<$40.00

Besides it s a temp fix, when I drop the tank I'll see what would eb involved with swapping tanks. This fix will be temporary.

 

UPDATE:

Dropped the tank.

It was not NEARLY as hard as I thought it was going to be.

For future refference if anyone ever needs to do this:

1) Lift hatch carpet and sound deadener. Remove Fuel pump over and fuel filler cover.
2) Drain tank
3) Unscrew fuel pump housing/float and remove from tank.
4) Disconnect the presurrized line and spray it back into the tank as opposed to teh interior or your face
5) Remove fillter tube rubber, lift it veritcle so it drains excess into tank
6) Disconnect the breather hose next to the fill tube
7) Remove two long *** verticle bolts holding the straps.
8) Pull tank forwards (toward front of car).
9) Disconnect return line from center of top of tank.
10) Pull out from car.

Install reverse of.. well you know.


Anyhow, there were rust and abrasions along where the strap was. We covered what little holes we could find with this epoxy putty and then fiberglassed a 6"x4" area. I don't know if the fiberglass really does anything, or if gas will eat through it, but it will keep the strap from eatign through taht place again.

Been abotu 4 days, hasn't leaked a drop.

 

Ummmmm next time... rather than spraying the gas back into the tank.. pull your EGI fuse first and turn the engine over... that will take the pressure off the fuel lines....

Two.... Cops don't like fuel cells??? Hmmm... never had a probelm in PA and we got some stupid regulations...

 

I knew someone would bring the thing up about the pressurized gas line. I forgot which fuse was the EGI b.c I don't have a fuse cover. It worked out... sprayed a lil gas though.