Ok, here is the scoop...

While looking for a new shop to work at I found an 87 RX7 for sale, $500 Body looks great, just a small dent on one of the rear fenders, paint is faded which was expected. Interior is ok, could use a little work, mainly with seats.

Found out the guy selling it is someone I talked to in school about 8 months earlier, it was his only vehicle and other than a start problem seemed to be a pretty strong car the last time I saw it.

First thing I asked was whats wrong with it. He mainly decided to sell it because he got a fairly new pickup and had no use for a vehicle with no cargo capacity. The car has a new starter and batter, and will come with a header he bought for it, no extra charge. I didn't ask who made the header. Odometer had 158K on it.

Asked to test drive it battery voltage was at about 9-10 volts. I looked at the battery and it was new, he had told me earlier that he starts the car for a few seconds about once a week just to keep the engine intact. So the battery didn't bother me. He said sometimes in order to start the car you have to keep the key in start and pump the clutch, no big problem it probably needs a clutch switch, if not I have an electronics and automotive degree so if not that I can find it and fix it. Once we had the batt hooked up to my truck for about 4 min it cranked right over with no hesitation (car was cold). He said it has a fuel problem, I forgot what exactly which was causing it to stall at idle, it was running like it had low fuel pressure or was lean. Didn't smell rich. Took it around the block and it seemed to have good power, no hesitation. The car hadn't warmed up yet so I just cruised it a little bit, never took it above 3k rpm. He didn't have tags on it so we couldn't take it on the highway.

Transmission needs some work, no worry I have 6 mazda trannies including an S5 in almost new condition. He also told me that it has a slight leak at the water pump, checked it out and it drips every now and then. It also has a grinding/clunk in the back under accel/dece with a small hesitation (not engine related), I asked if it needed a half shaft in the back, he said it has a bad u-joint. I couldn't get it to do it when turning so I'm guessing he's right. It also started to pop once after the engine revved down from 2500 rpm or higher. Couldn't tell if it was a misfire or burning through the intake.

I asked about maintenance, he always used mobil conventional oil. changed the plugs about once a year some time a little sooner. I looked over the car a bit more and it looked he tried to keep up with maintenance.

He seemed fairly open to tell me everything that was wrong with it before I found out or asked. I'm going to go over there again in a day or two and do a compression check and bring some other tools to check out the engine and drivetrain.

Sorry for the long post, I just need some feedback and if anything I mentioned indicates a tell tale problem an what else I need to check for in a few days.

Thanks,
K6

 

Compression test?
It looks like you got almost everything else covered.

The low voltage sounds like an alternator going, but it could be as simple as bad battery terminals - no biggie either way.



-Ted

 

It's all about the price.
$500 is fair for about anything that runs.
Budget yourself an engine rebuild (just in case), water pump, rear diff mount & seats.

 

Ok I wrote this huge detailed post just to have my computer bomb as I was reaching for the submit button. So here it goes again a little shorter.

Good things:

Tires are new, still have the injection stubs on the tread.
Starter is so new it doesn't even have water spots on it.
Header he has was made by racing beat.
All hoses and lines are pliable and seem to have a good seal, even above the exhaust.
All of the suspension is solid.
Seats are actually good, just are the crappy cloth seats that look like junk.
Driveshaft and U-joints are fine.

Good and bad things:

Everything prediagnosed on the car is exactly whats wrong with it.
Needs water pump.
Needs both differential mounts.
Pulsation dampener needs to be fixed.
May need new fuel pump.
I watched as he ran the car up the road shifting it above 3,500 rpm no blue smoke at all just a slight smell of old gas.

The bad:

Car has not been driven since November, fluids not checked since.
Car only occationally started, gas also from november and on E smells varnished.

First compression check when cold. Both rotors 80 psi on all 3 pulses. Battery was charged overnight but needs deep cycle so it cranked a little slower than normal.

Second test engine cold, found oil 2 quarts low. Added 2 quarts compresson still consistant all the way around but at 90 psi.

Ran car around block seemed to run about the same both cold and warm with the exception of idle.

Third compression test engine warm, consistant as before everything at 80 psi.

Worst case scenario seem to be I fix it up and it blows the seals in the near future.

I think the car is worth $500 even with the engine being as old as it is.

 

"Watch out when other people are doing compression tests...
Ask them the right questions to make SURE they are doing it RIGHT.
- 1 spark plug from both front AND rear rotors are pulled
- throttle is at WOT
- battery is fully charged; compresion specs are at 200 - 250RPM (I think?)
- test must be done on warmed-up engine

Sometimes people forget to pull both spark plugs and / or prop open the throttle - this WILL cause lower readings.


-Ted"

I wish I would have found that last night. When I tested the car the battery was fully charged but would not hold load. We only had the plug out that the compression gauge was in. Throttle in the idle position (feels stupid on this one). Only tested once on a warmed up engine.

I guess I'll be stopping by tomarrow to do it again. I'll hook up the battery from my truck to it, 900 CCA should do the trick. I feel a little better now about the engine.

Thanks, any other input still appreciated.