superevil

i tested the oil pressure with a new guage and sender,and while the engine is cold 15-30 at idle,60 or so at 2-3k rpm. the problem is it drops as the car heats up.once the car is fully warmed up,it idles at about 10 or so and wont go over 40 unless i do about 7k rpm in second up a hill for like 10 seconds. through using search it sounds like the thermo pellet has failed,.i just wanted a second opinion before i go tearing into it.any suggestions?

Icemark

sounds like the E-shaft thermo pellet to me as well, but could always be thermo valve in the oil cooler.

Does the oil cooler get warm with the engine? If it does that would rule out the thermo pellet in the oil cooler.

superevil

il check that before i to the shim mod the thermo pellet,cn the same mod be done to the cooler?

Scott 89t2

front cover o ring?

Icemark

Usually the front cover O ring will drop oil pressure the higher you rev.

Elysian

when they built my motor they installed a thermo pellet plug so this sort of thing wouldn't happen, i'm glad they did, cause obviously it does happen as i see in this thread

CarmonColvin

From first hand experience I would say 99% that you have an 0-ring problem. Read more here:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

tweaked

iTrader: (4)

My 86 has just started this too. I thought it was the thermo plug thing. I guess I'll buy the plug and a gasket just to make sure.
Is there a thermo pellet in the oil cooler? Is there a way to get rid of it with changing the oil cooler?

superevil

im having trouble getting off the e-shaft bolt,someone told me to heat it up with a propane torch,and then use the frame and starter to get it off. could someone explain the propane thing to me?should i try to remove the bolt while its still glowing hot? or wait a few?

mac_dad6

i wouldnt heat it up glowing hot but the breaker bar and starter thing worked for me. just make sure you pull the egi fuse so the engine doesn't fire p. that would be much bad

NZConvertible

If it's faulty, don't remove it, replace it with a new one. Same for the e-shaft thermal bypass. Both are there to get the engine up to temp faster, which reduces engine wear.

superevil

im planning on replacing it.but i cant get that damn bolt off no matter what i try,so i was going to try the torch thing,but i didnt want to get it to hot and break the bolt off,anyone experienced with this bolt removing procedure?

NZConvertible

An impact gun should have it off in seconds.