Xbladr

I was looking at my car yesterday and I will be installing an FMIC. The question I have is is it possible to install 2.5 inch piping around the battery and coil without having to relocate the battery?

A lot of people I noticed relocate the battery I was hoping to be able to just somehow squeeze the piping past the battery and coil if that was at all possible? Does anyone have any pics of this done?

Also what tends to be a good size FMIC for a t60 running around 10-12psi... I dont want it to be too massive to the point where it blocks my rad from getting air. I have the gp sports front

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

the greddy fmic kit does exaclty that, goes around the battery and coils.

Xbladr

well I was hoping for a custom fmic setup... I was on ebay and noticed you can get a core for 200 shipped and then piping clamps and silicon connectors for another 150 or so so about 400 for a complete setup compared to the 900 greddy anyone have any pics of this done?

Bukwild

its not going to as easy as pipes clamps and connectors. You will need some bends welded together that are not off the shelf stuff. If you can weld yourself then go for it. If you have to pay some to do all this work then its worth the money for the greddy. I cannot weld aluminum so I just picked up the greddy and was good to go.

And yes you will probably get alot of people pics on here of the "200" dollar setup they fabed up in their backyard and I tell you it looks like you fabed it up in their backyard using junk yard intercoolers, spray paint, and couplers from home depots plumbing department.

And if you do a search it has been covered a few times on this topic once you buy the aluminum straits, bends, couplers, clamps and the intercooler you are right at about 900 bucks.

and yes bring on the pics of the ghetto fab home intercooler kits!

Xbladr

I am not looking for a show car finish here I am looking for something that works and is functional... I dont see how it could cost 400+ dollars to get someone to just weld up the pipes for you... cutting them is easy and then marking them where they need to be welded after you do that you bring the pipes to an exhaust shop or just some welder and have him weld them up for you quickly... i am going to do all the measurements and cutting myself... i was just curious how easy it would be to route it around the battery...

Anyone with pics please bring them on

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Buy a used one.

Xbladr

do you know of any up for sale right now... granted I wont need it till spring/summer but how much can you get them for used? 500 shipped or so or still more than that?

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

My ghetto intercooler pipes. I relocated the battery tho. cost me about $350 all together

yusoslo

you call that ghetto...looks nice to me.

I'm going to rout my pipes straight back from a rear exiting intercooler end tank, they will go around the radiator and straight to the turbo and the throttle body, I figure its the shortest and straightest path to take.

Xbladr

damn that looks nice... that was my plan something like that but I really want to keep the battery in stock location anyone else have some pics but have the battery in stock location?

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

i want to steal your car then return it with an s4 engine

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

that's the only thing you'd take? you need to look harder. cough...gt35r...cough

Xbladr

Yusoslo how hard would that be to do? the one thing you would have to need though is a wide enough ic so that you can get around the rad

MARTIN

everything stock even fogllights.... no relocation...

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody had any luck running the piping under the PS up to the TB? My AC if remover of course. Pix would be nice if you have them.

Pinfield357

do you have to remove your intercooler pipeing to remove the battery?

thats got to be a pain in the ***

iceblue

Here is my setup. I kept AC and PS but I relocated my BATT. I also ran 3in piping so thats alot harder then 2.5. I ran 3in b/c I was planing ahead but now I will not be keeping PS and want a new rought. Yes I weld aluminum and did it myself. Cost me like 700 for it with BOV. I did have to relocate my batt. I ran out of pipe and had to purchas 2 90o bends from an exhaust shop and cut weld them together. I did this under the driver side section where you dont see it. Not shown in pics.

Xbladr

martin that is pretty much exactly what I am looking for I just think that fmic is a little large for me I am afraid it is going to block too much of the rad but that looks good

MARTIN

In the event that I have to remove the battery, All it takes is just one clamp.... Its alot less of a pain than having to relocate the battery and putting a switch to be nhra legal....

BTW that is 2.75" piping... I mentioned 2.5 in other threads because Im so used to that number being associated with IC piping..

Xbladr

martin did you use a greddy tb adapter or anything.... i hope you dont mind but i would like to pretty much steal ur exact pipe layout... if you have more pics that would be awesome if so could you send them to xbladr@comcast.net? Thanks

Xbladr

I was looking and found an IC size 31 x 6 x 3 i was curious if you guys though that would be a good fit for the front of my fc with the gp sports kit...

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

Umm, does that setup work well? I noticed the AFM is on the pressure side of the turbo, not the initial intake... also the BOV is closer to the turbo than the TB...

do you have any problems with the AFM slamming shut when the BOV lets go, then it would give the ECU some odd information...

I am very confused by that. I've never seen an AFM on the pressure side.

Thank you for your help,
TR

BklynRX7

yea all that, and its pink. J/K

iceblue

Hehe yea I get a lot of this. I have ran several setups and build several others for people. My placement for everything was a lot of trial and I came to like this setup exceptionally compared to any others running the stock EMS.

1. A stock setup with AFM placement as VACC is to re-circulate and not vent the BOV. The placement of the BOV is really irrelevant they both have their ups and down on what side of the IC they are on. Close to the TB really means nothing for how it works. With this setup it aloud me to vent properly b/c the air being vented is before it is calculated by the AFM. I also noticed less rich shots between ***** and a smoother running car. Over all I am exceptionally pleased with this setup. Boost section of VACC section matters not it is all the same amount of air. The AFM slamming shut is what I want.