im looking into getting a new flywheel. i was looking at 3 differant ones and wanted you guys opinion on them

findanza's aluminum flywheel

spec' sluminum flywheel

and racing beat's aluminum or steel..

i drive a s5 with street port

and i plan on getting a spec stage 2 clutch

 

is your car a daily driver?

 

Racing Beat aluminum. Have it on my NA and could not be happier. People say having such a light flywheel will be terrible for the street use. But as of so far I have no complaints and i daily drive my car. Just my opinion. Its an RX-7 its not meant to be the most comfortable car anyways.

 

IMHO, the benefits of a lighweight flywheel are not worth the cost associated, not unless your motor is modified quite a bit. That money could be better spent in other places. Also, unless you like jerky clutch engagement or like to have to slip the clutch a bunch during take-off, then I wouldn't recommend an aluminum flywheel.

Is there anything that needs to be done with the car? Are the suspension bushings 20yrs old? What about motor mounts? Gaskets? I could go on and on.

I don't know what you have done with your car up to this point, so this isn't directed toward you (OP) but it seems that a good bit of folks want to make thier cars fast before spending the money to make them reliable. Doesn't matter what flywheel, turbo or air intake that you have if the car wont roll down the road properly and reliably.

 

I have a near new 9.5 lb SR Motorsports aluminum flywheel I offered for $200 plus shipping. I'm still offering. This same Flywheel is on "sale" on their web site for $499.

 

+1

But if your still going to get one anyways, i would go with the steel light flywheel from racing beat. Its a lot more streetable than the aluminum one. The lighter it is the harder the standing starts are. The light steel is a lot easier to do standing starts and you can still get noticeable acceleration response. Thats just my opinion though. Oh, Also... if you doing drag racing, then getting a aluminum flywheel is not an option.

 

The primary argument for a light aluminum one like my 9.5 lb SRMotorsports is the ligher the flywheel the more HP that gets past the flywheel to the rear tires.

But if your looking for what to do for a daily driver and regular stop and go traffic, best to stay with stock or compromise to the middle of the road lightened steel.

 

i have a racing beat aluminum flywheel and spec stage 2 on my s5 n/a and love it. its not jerky by any means. i currently have 10,000 miles on the set up and wonder why i didn't do it sooner. if you get it, i doubt you will be dissapointed. it also makes spirited driving alot more fun. just my .02

Izzy

 

I guessing the people saying Al flywheels suck for stop and go have never had one.

Racing beat 9lb here for more then 2 years and love it. You'll notice it acceleration wise a TON in first and second gear, not so much in 3rd and up.

 

agreed

 

yeah i have the aluminum racing beat flywheel and I love it, that bs about it not being streetable is just that, bs. Unless you are a dumbass and cant drive standard you won't have a problem.

But, as was said previously you may be better off putting your money elsewhere, say bushings, springs, suspension dampeners, sway bar. Solid engine mounts ( one of my favorite modifications, again totally streetable no matter what anyone says), exhaust would be nice.

Also if you decide to do the flywheel, replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and and that other little bearing in the eccentric shaft ( drawing a blank for the name) would not be a bad idea.

 

my honest opinion is that if its a daily driver unless there is something wrong with your flywheel save your money.

 

+1

my girlfriend drives a s4 n/a with a fidanza. she has no problems at all. it took her about about 30 seconds to adjust.
stop being girly men.

 

this forum isnt the only good source of info. anybody heard of google?

type lightweight flywheel...

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywhee...heel_works.htm

that write-up applies lightened flywheels to BMWs but same concept.

after i get the full poly suspension bushings from mazdatrix im gonna get the RB 12lb. then a carbon fiber hood (mainly because my hood is keyed and secondly because it saves weight, yayy)

 

the light flywheels are not ALL that bad BUT you must pick a good clutch set up.

if you drive a puck style clutch and a light flywheel on the street trust me you are slowly killing your transmission. I had to rebuild my T56 and the rebuilder who had never seen my car or knew what set up I had in it told me to get the light flywheel and clutch set up out of the car if I want to see the transmission last.

 

It is pretty difficult to choose a flywheel because the manufacturers rarely state the moment of inertia (MOI) of their flywheels. Unfortunately, you can't really go by the static weight or material. For example, a well-designed steel flywheel can have less inertia than an aluminum flywheel. Also, a 9-lb flywheel with most of its weight centered would have less inertia than a 7-lb flywheel with most of its weight on the periphery. Therefore, you would probably need to try them out yourself to see what you like for your particular setup. As for durability, flywheels with steel at the contact points (ring gear and friction surface) will tend to last longer.

 

anyone who says that an AL flywheel is bad for daily driving is just lazy, I do it fine. It really depends on the person, you learn to keep the RPM up while driving for shifting situations.

 

Yeah I can just see everyone solving for J to figure out which flywheel to use!

 

I would.

 

I think we are among the few that would

 

pilot bearing, I just remembered, wow my brain is fried

 

the thing i don't like about aluminum flywheels is sometimes they are a bitch to remove because of the difference in material from crank to flywheel surface, luckily ours are bolted to a counter weight. I also hate it wheel the steel ring gear pops off the flywheel due to expansion rate difference, this doesn't happen all the time but i have seen a few. those friction surfaces can be a bitch too when the screws are worn down and you need to get them out somehow. i think my act 12lb is just a tad too light for daily driving in traffic, it's doable just not comfortably.

 

Racing Beat Aluminum

I have FIRST hand experience (owned and used) the steel RB flywheel and the RB aluminum. I currently have an aluminum RB flywheel on my TII. The flywheel will make the car respond like no other mod for the money. The car will rev super fast (effortlessly). The RB Aluminum Flywheel has a replaceable friction plate this allows you to use the most aggressive clutch and not have to worry about it killing the life of your flywheel (no resurfacing /theoretically could last forever).

By today’s standards rotaries are down on hp and torque. Its saving grace is the ability to rev, why would you want to hinder the rotaries biggest attribute next to a free flow exhaust (different topic all together).


As for street use it no big deal. It’s the same as if you drove a friend car after 5 min you get used to it. If you’re in traffic don’t ride people’s bumpers (hell that’s just plain 5spd common knowledge anyway). I hate shifting my Honda (beater) "feather light clutch" in traffic, so that argument is out the window for me.

PS

Don’t Google "feather light clutch" it is a made up term (adjective) to describe my clutch pedal feel in my Beater

 

no no my flywheel was torn up lots of heat marks and even a couple of pretty deep cracks... im curently doing a rebuild and NEED(not want) a new one