JamesWade2002

I go through flywheels and clutches about every 6 months. I need the lightest flywheel I can find in conjunction with the weekest clutch I can stomach for longer transmission life since my county is running out of beater FCs that I can scavange. So how to I go about this cheaply? Can I get just a rear counterbalance for cheap and then buy a cheap ali Fidanza and be in under 450.00 bucks? I can't find a price on the counter weight anywhere. Anyone with any used parts? Will a stock pressure plate hold 200HP with a sprung 4 puck disc? Need cheap/strong clutch advice.

Icemark

maybe driving style helps burn through the clutches too fast???

As far as the counter weight, look for a wrecked auto tranny in the same series, and use that counter weight. Most of the time you can get them for under $10-$20

JamesWade2002

okay, i just realized something that might be confusing about this post. I meant to say, as specifically as possible this time, I go through syncronizers and clutches every 6 monthes or so. I believe last I checked AFM voltage was reading at somthing in between 4-5 volts. I can walk a 5th gen V-tech prelude down the interstate with ease. I like to see the looks on Mustang GT owners faces (225HP models) as rip past them in 2nd. Amishboy can tell you how my car ran monthes ago when it walked his modded S5, while my fuel filter was clogging or clogged. This thread is about finding a cheap race clutch before I go to the dyno. damn.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

My question to you would be, if you know so much more than everyone else (as indicated by both your posts here) why are you asking us for help and advice? IT seems like in both your threads, you ask a question, yet you shoot down every answer given and bash those trying to help.

JamesWade2002

It's not that I'm better, and I don't mean to come off that way, its just that noone reads the whole question and then gives and edjucated answer. In this thread I'm asking advice from people who have a medium powered, ported RX7 that have already bought clutches and flywheels and know what works and what doesn't. Racingbeat says the stock pressure plate is okay, you just need a better disk for more clamping force. This doesn't seem to make sence. Can make a supposedly weak transmission work if I put as little weight on it as possible? What about injectors that have been professionaly cleaned in a car that never floods. Never, under ANY circumstances. This means that I have tried to make it flood last year and it won't do it. yet the oil is always full of gas. you can smell it and see it on the dipstick. The idea is, are there others out there that have had the same problem in the past and know how to deal with it? Hard on my rotor and stationary gear bearings? Why else would I ask, I know this. I could have found the previously quoted answers in the archives, which I've have already read and exhausted, as requested by moderators everywhere.

Ted Webster

Some time ago, I needed a clutch in mine also, I did a lot of searching around for a clutch that was strong, and easy on the left leg. Plus I read in an article SOMEWHERE about this outfit called clutch masters. They changed the lever ratios so you get more clamping force from the pressure plate without destroying the linkage. I believe the site is www.clutchmasters.com. I'm really pleased with mine! haven't scortched it yet

JamesWade2002

Very nice! I went to the site and was impressed with the completeness of the kit. It even had an alignment tool and pilot bushing. Which clutch did you buy, the FX100? Do you have any idea how heavy it was? Was it heavier than a stock disk and pressure plate is what I am getting at. Did it hurt engine responce any? I suppose it would have to be real damn heavy for anyone to notice much of a change, but you know, thought I would ask.

JamesWade2002

I posted this earlier but I don't think anyone got what I meant, so I'm clearifying. Here goes:

I need to reduce stress on my syncronizers while simultaniously increasing the holding capasity of my clutch. I also want a clutch that will close and open more suddenly than a stock one. So....can I use a super light weight flywheel with a racingbeat 4 puck, sprung hub, clutch and a stock pressure plate to increase the clutches ability to transfer more horsepower to the wheels and handle more heat while keeping my transmission shifting fast and hard for more than three to six monthes? Is there anyway to make a stock N/A transmission handle 200 horsepower in a stripped down sub 2500 lbs car?

C-Murder

you wanna do all that on a stock tranny?!?! Deffinitely your clutch isnt good enough, upgrade it with whatever, the link above was pretty sweet. But on a stock NA tranny? Why not upgrade to a TII tranny? It will last a lot longer and you wont be writing a post in the future saying "transmission broke, what went wrong"
I still maintain you are driving way too hard or dont know how to shift if you are going through clutches that fast.
Spend more now, save money down the road

MARTIN

I have been beating on my tranny for over 3 years... I have gone through numerous setups, n/a-turbo and some different power adders. I do not launch hard though, but I been abusing this n/a tranny for a while. IT is getting harder to downshift, but no grinding yet.. I had a bronze clutch for a while, with the stock pressure plate.. It ran good, no slippage until I got tearboed. Even chirped 3rd on the n/a setup!!. So yes a better clutch will work fine with the stock PP.

JamesWade2002

very nice. its nice to hear from someone with actual experience. What I think I am going to do is get a racingbeat ali flywheel and couple that with an S5 tranny that has 94K on it and a sprung 4 puck RB clutch. I think this will work. I am not going to spend money on a turbo drive train if I can make an N/A work. When I make it to the dyno after all the parts get put on, I will post results.

RSVampire

you don't have to buy the whole Turbo drive train. You can buy just the Turbo II transmission because they hold a lot more torque and are built more solid than the NA's tranny. They bolt right up.

C-Murder

you'll need a custom drive shaft though, but still worth it

sleejay

my stock flywheel + act heavy duty pp + act unspring 6 work fine on my medium powered ported engine.

they last me longer than 6 months. stop riding your clutch.
burnouts are cool, but clutches are expensive

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

IF you knew any less about what you were talking about, you'd own a mustang instead of a 7. Why the hell do people insist on talking out of their asses about stuff they know nothing about, misleading others and intentionally spreading misinformation?

The turbo trans is not a direct swap into a nonturbo car by itself. THe clutch splines dont line up, nor does the starter, or flywheel ringgear. Nor does the driveshaft front yoke. Or slave cylinder. So get a turbo 2 driveshaft you say? the rear flange doesnt line up with the NA diff flange, so then you have to change the diff. But then your NA axles dont fit the t2 diff, so you change those too.

Then, guess what...you've changed the whole drivetrain.

It is possible to just go with all the turbo 2 stuff back to the driveshaft, and get a custom shaft made up to join the turbo trans to the NA diff. But you've still bought half of a t2 drivetrain conversion, why not finish it?

JamesWade2002

I'm on the exact same page. Since I wanna go TII eventually anyway, it would be a waste to only do it half assed. Having the driveshaft cut would cost money also, so I might as well just build my little, light weight, base model into a TII.