need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

it is 2-1/8! and your getting ripped a new one at that price. i bought a brand new craftsman one for $40. time for a new auto store!

Crash Test Joey

iTrader: (1)

I paid $38 at Napa because they only had it in 3/4" drive and I only had a 1/2 drive impact. I agree at $99 someone is getting hosed.

I don't need mine anymore - if anyone wants to buy it PM me.

Dan H

Wow, where are you guys getting them...

I got my Craftsman 2 1/8th socket at Sears for only $25 plus the $7 for the 1/2-->3/4 adaptor.

DubbayoC

me too Dan.... then I ended up buying a 3/4 so I wouldn't break it again. in the end i ended up paying more but, now i have more toys!

13bpower

You guys need to use your heads, the right tools, and some leverage and force in the right places. I do it by myself every time.

I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.

Crashx7

Since so many people seem to have problems with this, that sounds like a great idea. Write it up and get it archived!

razorback

i find that 3lb hammers work damn good good to see someone else knows my little secret.

88t2romad

like ive stated before=get an old basketball pole and use that as leverage off th end of the breaker bar, it worked like a charm for me

razorback

every tried to hold down one side of the motor when someone else does that? its not easy. with the hammer its easier and you only need one person really.

patman

iTrader: (3)

im not paying 99 for it...he lets me use it for free

powrdby13B

dude i milled a socket for it... but thats not the point... i also had a 5-ft length of 3/4 ID steel pipe (for making pipe clamps) and that made a hell of a breaker bar
i gotta take one off soon, and the thread locking compound i used will make sure i use at least about 600 ft-lbs to get it off

Crash Test Joey

iTrader: (1)

Sears didn't have one in stock that day, and it was worth the extra $6 bucks at Napa not to have to special order one

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

So... uh... you got the nut off now, how do you plan on getting it torqued on at the original pressure? Or does is 230 ft/lbs the correct number and it just get's tightened over the years of engine spinage?

buttsjim

Hi everybody,

I'm usually just a lurker, but today I just can't resist posting (although I doubt the following will be news to most of you). Mazdatrix has a great socket welded to a piece of flat bar stock. At $36, it's cheaper than a 2-1/8" socket, and it appears unbreakable. I use a 4" length of flat bar stock from Home Depot as the flywheel stopper (just drill 2 holes that line up with the mounting holes for the clutch pressure plate. Then, on reassembly, I use a bathroom scale to torque the nut. I forget the exact numbers, but my method is to put a block of wood on the scale, rest wrench handle on the wood, and then pull up on the scale. I then read the pressure I'm applying to the wrench from the scale readout. If I apply 150lbs of pressure at a point on the wrench that's exactly 2 feet from the center of the nut, then I know I have 150 * 2 = 300 ft-lb of torque.

This is a pretty simple method, and I'd be amazed if it's news to everybody (especially based on some of the excellent advice I usually find in this forum), but I thought I'd post just in case.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ha, never thought of the bathroom scale method, that's an interesting one. I've never owned a torque wrench myself, so next time I need a quick emergency solution, that would be it. How much do torque wrenches usually run anyways?