2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

flywheel nut vs Me

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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 09:37 AM
  #26  
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From: binghamton, ny
Originally Posted by patman
i thought it was 2 1/8. my local auto parts store lets me borrow it every time i need it. which is good since the price on it is 99 bucks.

pat
it is 2-1/8! and your getting ripped a new one at that price. i bought a brand new craftsman one for $40. time for a new auto store!
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 10:05 AM
  #27  
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I paid $38 at Napa because they only had it in 3/4" drive and I only had a 1/2 drive impact. I agree at $99 someone is getting hosed.

I don't need mine anymore - if anyone wants to buy it PM me.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 10:10 AM
  #28  
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Wow, where are you guys getting them...

I got my Craftsman 2 1/8th socket at Sears for only $25 plus the $7 for the 1/2-->3/4 adaptor.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 12:58 PM
  #29  
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me too Dan.... then I ended up buying a 3/4 so I wouldn't break it again. in the end i ended up paying more but, now i have more toys!
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 01:09 PM
  #30  
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You guys need to use your heads, the right tools, and some leverage and force in the right places. I do it by myself every time.

I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 13bpower
You guys need to use your heads, the right tools, and some leverage and force in the right places. I do it by myself every time.

I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
Since so many people seem to have problems with this, that sounds like a great idea. Write it up and get it archived!
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 04:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 13bpower
I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
i find that 3lb hammers work damn good good to see someone else knows my little secret.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 05:41 PM
  #33  
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like ive stated before=get an old basketball pole and use that as leverage off th end of the breaker bar, it worked like a charm for me
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 06:09 PM
  #34  
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every tried to hold down one side of the motor when someone else does that? its not easy. with the hammer its easier and you only need one person really.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 08:08 PM
  #35  
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im not paying 99 for it...he lets me use it for free
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 11:52 PM
  #36  
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dude i milled a socket for it... but thats not the point... i also had a 5-ft length of 3/4 ID steel pipe (for making pipe clamps) and that made a hell of a breaker bar
i gotta take one off soon, and the thread locking compound i used will make sure i use at least about 600 ft-lbs to get it off
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 07:54 AM
  #37  
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
Originally Posted by Dan H
Wow, where are you guys getting them...

I got my Craftsman 2 1/8th socket at Sears for only $25 plus the $7 for the 1/2-->3/4 adaptor.
Sears didn't have one in stock that day, and it was worth the extra $6 bucks at Napa not to have to special order one
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 08:04 AM
  #38  
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So... uh... you got the nut off now, how do you plan on getting it torqued on at the original pressure? Or does is 230 ft/lbs the correct number and it just get's tightened over the years of engine spinage?
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 11:19 AM
  #39  
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Hi everybody,

I'm usually just a lurker, but today I just can't resist posting (although I doubt the following will be news to most of you). Mazdatrix has a great socket welded to a piece of flat bar stock. At $36, it's cheaper than a 2-1/8" socket, and it appears unbreakable. I use a 4" length of flat bar stock from Home Depot as the flywheel stopper (just drill 2 holes that line up with the mounting holes for the clutch pressure plate. Then, on reassembly, I use a bathroom scale to torque the nut. I forget the exact numbers, but my method is to put a block of wood on the scale, rest wrench handle on the wood, and then pull up on the scale. I then read the pressure I'm applying to the wrench from the scale readout. If I apply 150lbs of pressure at a point on the wrench that's exactly 2 feet from the center of the nut, then I know I have 150 * 2 = 300 ft-lb of torque.

This is a pretty simple method, and I'd be amazed if it's news to everybody (especially based on some of the excellent advice I usually find in this forum), but I thought I'd post just in case.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 12:35 PM
  #40  
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From: St. Paul, Minnnesota
Originally Posted by buttsjim
Hi everybody,

I'm usually just a lurker, but today I just can't resist posting (although I doubt the following will be news to most of you). Mazdatrix has a great socket welded to a piece of flat bar stock. At $36, it's cheaper than a 2-1/8" socket, and it appears unbreakable. I use a 4" length of flat bar stock from Home Depot as the flywheel stopper (just drill 2 holes that line up with the mounting holes for the clutch pressure plate. Then, on reassembly, I use a bathroom scale to torque the nut. I forget the exact numbers, but my method is to put a block of wood on the scale, rest wrench handle on the wood, and then pull up on the scale. I then read the pressure I'm applying to the wrench from the scale readout. If I apply 150lbs of pressure at a point on the wrench that's exactly 2 feet from the center of the nut, then I know I have 150 * 2 = 300 ft-lb of torque.

This is a pretty simple method, and I'd be amazed if it's news to everybody (especially based on some of the excellent advice I usually find in this forum), but I thought I'd post just in case.
Ha, never thought of the bathroom scale method, that's an interesting one. I've never owned a torque wrench myself, so next time I need a quick emergency solution, that would be it. How much do torque wrenches usually run anyways?
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