Ryde _Or_Die

I was just wondering if like a 9.5 lb flywheel will make a car unstreetable? How bad does it get anyways? I want alightweight one and figure I might as well get the lightest for the price but does it really hurt daily driving or is it ok for like 50 miles drives every now and then? Thanks alot.

2DoritosOnAStick

If you do not encounter alot of stop and go traffic then nothing is "unstreetable". I'm fairly tired of hearing that. You will be very happy with a 9.5# flywheel, and unless you're a moron, it's easy to drive.

Jerk_Racer

Those that talk down about the 9.5# flywheel are those that don't have one. I do. I love it. I'd never go back to stock. The only bouncing of my idle is because my car isn't totally tuned right. I find it easy to drive in stop and go traffic in downtown Seattle. Lots of stop and go on hilly streets with no real problems? Yeah, it's "streetable".

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

fastrotaries

Do you have a TII, because that makes a difference. the High HP cars will eventually warp the light aluminum flywheels. Plus the fact that they have low compression will also make more difficult to drive. But once you get used to it, then it's no problem. My friend says my car is broke, ofcourse he's just a moron. the 9.5# One isn't bad at all. Your launches will require more revs to pervent bogging also.

RICE RACING

My flywheel + pressure plate + clutch disks + bolts altogether weighs under 7.5 lbs !

It is streetable, the only thing is that it revs like a motorbike ! .... oh and the idle needs to be around 1200rpm, apart from that it is excellent.

Node

iTrader: (1)

I think Evil Aviator has something like a 3.5lb flywheel on his 20b car

And RICE Racing, how did you get one so light? Is any of it custom, or just Australian? lol

FEDREX

Well said. I also have a 9.5lb. flywheel and would never go back. One of my friend's has the same setup on his "87 TII and also loves it. I can relate to Seattle traffic as I used to live in Portland - it is no problem driving. Very streetable and I'm picky about sh*t.

You'll get a lot of people saying "no good for drag", you have to slip the clutch a lot", "you have to downshift going up hills" Except for the fact that the added mass of a OEM flywheel does provide EASIER takeoffs everything else is BS. Don't jip yourself - get the 9.5!
As far as launches, the line between bogging some and tire spin is narrowed - just takes a few practice runs.

RETed

I think you need a quick run-down on what the function of a flywheel is...

Lighter flywheels are designed to rev faster and transfer less wear to the synchros.&nbsp A light ALUMINUM flywheel uses an aluminum core with a steel (typically) insert which mates to the clutch disc.&nbsp A light steel flywheel is all steel and mates directly to the clutch disc.&nbsp Light aluminum flywheels will wear their steel inserts; they are designed to be replaced after worn down past usable spec - KEEP THIS IN MIND.&nbsp Light steel flywheels can easily be resurfaced by most (automotive) machine shops.&nbsp This brings up the question of can you handle the downtime when you need to replace the insert on your light aluminum flywheel???&nbsp This is a very important question to think about.

Now, as for how light is too light?&nbsp "It depends..."&nbsp I usually recommend light steel flywheels (15-20lbs, stock is like 30lbs) for most street turbo FC's, as this gives noticably freer revving with very little compromise in driving; IMHO, a lighter flywheel isn't worth the trade-off unless you're really hardcore.&nbsp NA owners might think about going with a light aluminum flywheel (~10lbs.) to gain every advantage they can get.&nbsp Lighter flywheels require you to launch at a higher RPM from a dead stop; that's pretty much it.&nbsp My suggestion is to find another FC with a lightened flywheel and ask for a test drive.&nbsp If you feel you're comfortable with the set-up, then go for it.

For the hardcore drag racers, keep in mind that lighter flywheels hurt your launch times - lighter doesn't necessarily mean better in this case.&nbsp This is one of the reasons why I recommend light steel flywheels for those that do drag race...



-Ted

Merovign

I don't have a lightened flywheel in my 7 (but I will), vut I do have a 9# flywheel in my 325 - it is so driveable it's not even funny. The idle is slightly bouncy but not much higher than stock (100rpm or so), I rarely bog it at all on launches, and while it might hurt your 60' times a tad, I figure that on a street car the responsiveness and reduced rotating mass in the drivetrain makes up for it.

Obviously I'd say no to a 5# flywheel... And it would be cool if you could drive one first. The steel one is more practical, if you get an aluminum one, it might just be easier to buy two and swap the other one it when you need to replace the inserts - you can sometimes get Cusco and other J-spec flywheels for $330... which obviously won't work in an NA tranny.

MikeL

I just bought a light steel flywheel from Racing Beat. It's 17lb. Factory for my '87 TII is 28lb. I could have afforded a lighter flywheel but, I am not willing to sacrifice too much of my driveability and, I do go to the drag strip sometimes.

My major concern is moving smoothly off of the line with the a/c running. Secondary to that is quicker acceleration and, I already have an unspring 6-puck that makes getting going more difficult than stock.

In other words, I just purchased a compromise.

Mike

Forseti

MikeL, Long time no see..how's the new engine coming?

On all the cars that I have driven that have lightened flywheels, I find that there's some loss in low-end torque. However, it does reduce friction.

I think lightening the flywheel can be beneficial, but you need to be careful with how light you go. I've also seen some ultra-light flywheels warp to sh*t.

Curious to hear more thoughts on this though... (and who's got the best product/prices)

/F/

MikeL

Forseti,

I've got my old engine on the ground now. The new one is in the mail. I expect it before the end of next week. It's a bridge ported TII engine.

The heavy flywheel is best for normal street driving and for drag racing. The light ones are good for road racing and autocrossing. I got one that's in between the above two.

My major concern is being able to pull smoothly away from a traffic light with my a/c running. My unsprung 6-puck clutch disc is already difficult enough to use. I don't need a 9lb flywheel making even it harder to do.

Those are my thoughts. I'll see you on the "real" forum!

Mike

Ryde _Or_Die

Well I am mostly interested in drag racing, so I wouldn't want a light weight flywheel at all? What about a lightened steel one even, around 15# or so? Thanks.

MikeL

Ryde _Or_Die, you sound like you want what I want. I bought a light steel flywheel, the 17lb, $364 Racing Beat or MazdaTrix thing. They are the same. Racing beat sells those flywheels to Mazdatrix.

Ryde _Or_Die

So do you have one yet or no? If so or you have driven one, does it help you in drag racing or hurt, or do nothing? Thanks alot.

MikeL

Sorry, it's not installed yet.

rx7-rage

i have a 9.5# flywheel in my car, and i don't have any probs on the street or anything. very good purchase on my part go for it if u have the chance.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Ahhh, but you are wrong grasshopper.

My first mod was to go aluminum flywheel thinking like many that lighter was better. Unfortunately, it was my daily driver. Don't be fooled, driving stop and go with the minimal intertia of an aluminum flywheel is a pain in the ***. Higher rev slip clutch from a stop, otherwise you stall the engine. Also, you have to deal with clutch chatter more often from higher rev starts.

If you live in the sticks where stop and go traffic is only what you see on TV, go aluminum. BUT, if you live in the city, go lightened steel. Been there, done that, put up with is for over a year. Swapped out for a lightened steel, been driving it for over 10 years with nary a problem.

My answer back is those with aluminum flywheels in their daily driver (that also deal with stop and go at least) and say no problem only say that because they don't want to admit they made a mistake.

Jerk_Racer

Go with a stock unit if you drag race often. I don't. Straight lines bore me. I play in the hills leading up to the Cascades when I can. I also go to as many local autocrosses as possible. Having a lightweight flywheel makes for much easier downshifts. For stop and go traffic I've just adjusted to it. It's not that bad really. It's not for everybody though. For those considering it, weigh the pro's and con's. I opted for as light as possible because it seemed like a good idea at the time. You know what, it was!

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

FEDREX

??? what sort of remark is that last paragraph. I love mine, excellent mod. I don't create **** and don't appreciate someone categorizing me as someone who makes **** up. I've been driving a pristine '90 TII for over 3 1/2 years and this upgrade has been in the car for about 2 1/2. I have put over 40K on this clutch/flywheel, just upgraded my turbo and everything hold wells and drives smoothly.

I, personally don't care about what people buy. What concerns me is your categorization of people and lack of detail. Just because you had a bad experience with a specific set-up - doesn't give you the green light to rag on others that have the right stuff that's totally streetable and enjoy it.

If you're going to post an evaluation on a product it would be nice if you would indicate which clutch you were using, which flywheel, which car.

Just for the record, I am admittedly **** about my car and what results I get with mods. If I'm not happy with something I'll be the first to let others know.

You don't mention what car you had the aluminum flywheel in - recalling earlier posts on this seems to me that you had it in an FB. It also appears that your interpretation was over 10 years ago. Just maybe, some are using a different product than what you had back then.

MazzyMan

Mine is about under 8 and the only thing is that climbing car park slopes require more revs than normal and alittle control. Other than that...you'd have to engage 1st more often than normal. But for hard driving...its boogie time!!!

Turtle's TII

I put a J-Spec motor in my 87TII, is this a lighter flywheel, than a stock US model?

Thanks

Merovign

When I said "J-spec flywheel" I should have said "J-market" flywheel - some of the aftermarket suppliers in Japan sell lightweight flywheels and if you can get the shipping arranged it can be cheaper than buying it here (depending on how the Yen/Dollar ratio is when you order).

AFAIK the stock ones are the same.

rx7-rage

made a mistake? ummmmmm, u must be mistaken. i've had mine for about 2 months now, yea i know thats not that long of a time, but i don't have a prob with the alum flywheel. i don't need to rev it up high to get going, it is just like driving the car when i had the stock flywheel on there. maybe u just can't drive right or something, but the setup i bought was not a mistake, it was a good choice

crasher2

you all have missed the point, a light weight flywhell wan't for drag racing they were ment for track use. This so you cankeep you revs hi and beable to get the spped back from like brakeing and cornering.

Before you decide what one to get go to www.mazdatrix.com and read there clutch and flywheel section. I have been racing for many years and i know befroe most of you had dreams of driveing an RX7 I was already owning one and racing one in Japan. SO you guys need to get with it and learn what equipment is for what.