Flyhweel spec...need help asap
03-13-07, 11:14 AM
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Flyhweel spec...need help asap
Ok, So I have called about everyone I know and can not find the spec for the flywheel, the step that is. I am getting it resurfaced and need to know what the distance from the face to the step is.......it is a 90 NA. Anyone know for sure what it is.....thanks everyone!!!!!
PS- I have checked the FSM and still can not find it......
PS- I have checked the FSM and still can not find it......
03-13-07, 03:37 PM
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that is the hack *** way of doing it. What happens with that is essentially eybaling it. As the clutch material rides on the face it wears away material where as the steps have no friction and no material worn away. By just taking off the same amount, if you loose .010 from the clutch face wearing on it, and resurface it, and then down the road to that again, you are now off .020 and the clutch will feel like crap and eventually slip.
i have seen this problem numerous times and why many high mileage cars with multile clutch repalcements feel sloppy.
I had first had experience on my race car where the hack did not use a spec...in three laps the clutch face overheated and exploded. I asked the moron what he used for a spec....he just stared at me with a blank face. Turns out, eyeball method was .060 off and that is what cause my problem. not using a spec cost me a $300 clutch, about 3 hours of labor, and main seal, $300 race entry, and championship points that would have moved me up atleast three places in the points if I would have finished my ussual position.
To do it right, you need to use the spec, I know alot of guys don't, but why wouldnt you if you are doing the job anyway. I would rather make it factory spec than eyeball it.
i have seen this problem numerous times and why many high mileage cars with multile clutch repalcements feel sloppy.
I had first had experience on my race car where the hack did not use a spec...in three laps the clutch face overheated and exploded. I asked the moron what he used for a spec....he just stared at me with a blank face. Turns out, eyeball method was .060 off and that is what cause my problem. not using a spec cost me a $300 clutch, about 3 hours of labor, and main seal, $300 race entry, and championship points that would have moved me up atleast three places in the points if I would have finished my ussual position.
To do it right, you need to use the spec, I know alot of guys don't, but why wouldnt you if you are doing the job anyway. I would rather make it factory spec than eyeball it.