just curious, what is preferred fluid wise for a nice turbo 2 motor? not looking for super power but i want what is best for the life and health of a good motor. not worried about price

oils? weights and synthetic or non?

coolants? 50/50?

gas? octane?

 

20/50 Castrol GTX

Anything green, 70/30 water to coolant, with maybe a little water wetter.

91 octane Chevron

That's what I put in my RX-7.

 

what kind of seven do you have? i appreciate anyones input i just want as much info as possible

 

Oh good, then finance a full auto shop and hire a top rotary engine mechanic and staff to take care of your car for you.

If you are not Roger Penske, and you realize that your statement was silly, then see the following...
Weights - See the link to the factory service manual in the FAQ sticky in this 2gen forum.

Synthetic - Recommended for the transmission and differential. Recommended for the engine only for racing. If you use synthetic in the engine on a street car, still follow the drain interval in the factory service manual because rotary engines shear oil very badly, and the supposed extended drain intervals of synthetics are not a good idea in a rotary engine.

Non-synthetic - Recommended for the engine of a street car. Castrol GTX seems to have the best results in rotary engines.

On this forum, 99% of the responses to this question are wrong. See the factory service manual for the actual answer, and note that you are supposed to use distilled water in the mix to keep deposits from building up inside the engine.

If you look in your owner's manual, you will see that the car was designed for minimum of 87 octane (R+M)/2, with no more than 10% ethanol. If you are running higher boost than the factory setting, or if you notice any knocking, use a higher octane grade. Otherwise, higher octane is a complete waste of money.

 

oil: See FAQ. 10w30 or 20w50, API certified. FAQ has a list of acceptable synthetics (don't use any others, to be safe). Synthetics are better under any circumstances, but off the race track non-synthetics are usually more than enough. There are more popular options, but I've heard of engines going to 350k plus miles on "any API dino oil that was on sale". The cooling system is more important for longevity, in fact.

coolant: 50/50 ethylene glycol safe for aluminum. Anything from 30/70 to 70/30 is fine, but it's not any better or worse. More water lowers your temps but also lowers your boiling point. Distilled water is preferable over tap water, especially hard tap water, to prevent sediment buildup. Change every 18 months, along with an OEM thermostat.

gas: 87 octane is fine, and leaves the least deposits. If you ever increase the boost, 91 will help prevent detonation from too much boost. Detonation prevention is the only purpose of higher octane. If you're not at risk, there's no point. See www.toptiergas.com for clean gas brands.

A Haynes manual is very helpful for these and the many other critical (but often ignored) basic maintenance items. I don't use it for much else, in fact. It's more important that you do all of your maintenance. None of those fluids make much difference.