flipped fd=crazy deal
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Either learn to do it yourself, or hire someone with experience. Both can be very expensive.
After the car was strapped in, the baseline run made 320 RWHP at 13 PSI. Much more then was expected (I guessed it would make 266, others guessed 275) keeping in mind that the current "tune" in boost just meant that the A/F ratios were barely registering on the gauge at something other then 10:1 flat.
With each successive run we pulled a bit of fuel and gained between 10 and 20 HP every time. After approximately 6-8 runs (I lost count) the final number was 387 RWHP, 279 FT-LBS @ 13 PSI. A conservative estimate puts that right around 420 HP at the flywheel. Not half bad for an hour on the dyno on low boost. A/F ratios are in the mid 12s until about 5 PSI, falling to the mid 11s to 10 PSI, then low 11s to 13 PSI. Timing is still VERY conservative at 10 degrees. I could put a few degrees of timing into it right now and pick up a few more HP but I'd rather wait and borrow an EGT gauge (or buy a cheap one) before I start bumping timing too much.
With each successive run we pulled a bit of fuel and gained between 10 and 20 HP every time. After approximately 6-8 runs (I lost count) the final number was 387 RWHP, 279 FT-LBS @ 13 PSI. A conservative estimate puts that right around 420 HP at the flywheel. Not half bad for an hour on the dyno on low boost. A/F ratios are in the mid 12s until about 5 PSI, falling to the mid 11s to 10 PSI, then low 11s to 13 PSI. Timing is still VERY conservative at 10 degrees. I could put a few degrees of timing into it right now and pick up a few more HP but I'd rather wait and borrow an EGT gauge (or buy a cheap one) before I start bumping timing too much.
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LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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Oct 7, 2015 08:12 PM



