Flashers and Defogger do not work when cold.
12-12-05, 08:59 AM
#1
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
Flashers and Defogger do not work when cold.
Greetings,
I am having a problem with my 1990 Mazda RX-7 Conv. When the car is cold the Turn signals /Flashers and rear window defogger do not work. (The 4 way flashers / hazards always work) Usually 5 min after the engine reaches nominal temperature they will start to work. I have replaced the turn signal switch to no avail. I also checked all the contacts on the rear window. I have also purchased a new Flasher CPU, but have not installed it since they work once warm. Any help is appreciated Thanks!
Matt|ttaM
I am having a problem with my 1990 Mazda RX-7 Conv. When the car is cold the Turn signals /Flashers and rear window defogger do not work. (The 4 way flashers / hazards always work) Usually 5 min after the engine reaches nominal temperature they will start to work. I have replaced the turn signal switch to no avail. I also checked all the contacts on the rear window. I have also purchased a new Flasher CPU, but have not installed it since they work once warm. Any help is appreciated Thanks!
Matt|ttaM
12-12-05, 12:47 PM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Yeah the CPU flasher board needs replacing. Bad solder joints.
As far as the rear defrost, I'd be looking at the headlight switch or the connections at the back to0 see if either has cold joints or corrosion
By the way, I have rebuilt flasher boards in stock in my webstore
As far as the rear defrost, I'd be looking at the headlight switch or the connections at the back to0 see if either has cold joints or corrosion
By the way, I have rebuilt flasher boards in stock in my webstore
12-12-05, 01:55 PM
#3
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
Thank you for your reply, Icemark. I will replace the CPU asap. How do I know what too look for with "Cold Joints" Is that a brittle soder? Or a loose connection that is only connected when the metal is heated and expanded? Thanks again!
Matt|ttaM
Matt|ttaM
12-12-05, 02:00 PM
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
when the joint is really bad, there will be small cracks barely seen by the naked eye; where the joint to the connector(s) or to the mechanical part of the switch.
Try pulling the switch out, removing all the solder where the circuit board attaches to the connector, and then re-flow new solder back into the joint.
Try pulling the switch out, removing all the solder where the circuit board attaches to the connector, and then re-flow new solder back into the joint.
