fixing a dented rear quater panel?
11-01-06, 02:05 PM
#1
tom port.. AKA streetport
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fixing a dented rear quater panel?
how many have had to do this? did you weld in new metal or just bondo it?? i HATE the idea of bondo!!!!
if you done this and have pics of your work, may i see it?
im purchasing a RX7 with this problem and want to fix it.
if you done this and have pics of your work, may i see it?
im purchasing a RX7 with this problem and want to fix it.
11-01-06, 02:29 PM
#2
Insane Burning Diarrhea
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Bondo is just going to deform and fall off after a while... better do it right by cutting a good QP off and welding it onto your car... grind the welds and smooth it out after.
11-01-06, 02:31 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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thats my plan....i hate the fact of cutting my other car's QP...but its just a N/A with a wrecked title
..
now im no body work person...BUT, dont you need to bondo the welds afterwards?
..now im no body work person...BUT, dont you need to bondo the welds afterwards?
11-01-06, 02:47 PM
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Engine, Not Motor
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Depends on the size of the dent. Most likely it can be pulled out to near the original shape, then the remaining depression filled with kitty hair and filler...
Welding in a patch panel is only necessary if the metal has been damaged to the point where it cannot be pulled. Things like holes, creases, etc.
Welding in a patch panel is only necessary if the metal has been damaged to the point where it cannot be pulled. Things like holes, creases, etc.
11-01-06, 04:55 PM
#6
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
I think this may do the trick.
Pops A Dent
I first saw this on an Info-mertial. I have no idea if it works or not. I have never used it or seen it. However for $20, it's worth a shot. If you get it and it does work, I'd like to hear about it!
Pops A Dent
I first saw this on an Info-mertial. I have no idea if it works or not. I have never used it or seen it. However for $20, it's worth a shot. If you get it and it does work, I'd like to hear about it!
11-01-06, 05:01 PM
#7
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This should help. This is the dent he is referring to, although it's more of a crunch. I'm no body man but I don't think a new QP would be needed. I think this is fixable.
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11-01-06, 05:37 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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yep..thats the dent
so is this fixable?
my friend paints a autobody shop and has SOME experience with body work but usually other people do the work for him to spray...is that able to be pulled out wihtout needeing to put a new QP on?
so is this fixable?
my friend paints a autobody shop and has SOME experience with body work but usually other people do the work for him to spray...is that able to be pulled out wihtout needeing to put a new QP on?
11-01-06, 07:46 PM
#11
Passing life by
A good body man can fix that. When it goes into crease lines they are much harder to get out. Basically you pull and hammer and dolly it back as far as possible and then use body filler. Who ever says body filler is not the right way to do it is flat out wrong. It is 22ga steel there is no other way. If it has creased the lines bad only body filler spread out to reshape it is possible after you have pulled it as far as it can go.
You can pull allot trust me. It can be faster to put a new panel in depending on your tools. The factory panels are brazed in. Brazing this steel will cause less warping and hold very very well. On these type of things I only tack weld them in and use body panel adhesive from 3m. It costs about 95$ a tube and requires a special gun. The glue is as strong as welds trust me.
I just pulled 2 big dents from a quarter panels on one of the project cars it took around 4hrs labor. Most of the time was used hammer and dolly. So the method is up to you.
You can pull allot trust me. It can be faster to put a new panel in depending on your tools. The factory panels are brazed in. Brazing this steel will cause less warping and hold very very well. On these type of things I only tack weld them in and use body panel adhesive from 3m. It costs about 95$ a tube and requires a special gun. The glue is as strong as welds trust me.
I just pulled 2 big dents from a quarter panels on one of the project cars it took around 4hrs labor. Most of the time was used hammer and dolly. So the method is up to you.
PDR will work
11-02-06, 06:40 PM
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I own an extreamly high end body shop and questions like this kill me. I understand people have a budget but we have to be realiztic. Paint now days is so techincal without years of training you will not have an adequate fix that will only last a few years at most. It's mind-boggleing how much tech there is to modern coatings, its pretty rediculous. There is far more to just taking that quarter panal off than you may think. Modern cars use every bit of sheet metal as structural support so when you remove it there is connections to everything, inner wheel wells, interior peices...it would be night mare for your average fella. As for you plastic filler questions, there is nothing wrong with it when it is used right. It is very easy to use and extreamly easy to abuse. That is why it has gotten such abad rap becasue untrained people use it incorrectly, you might as well just use Play-Doh for that matter. Body glues are the standard of the indutry now, look at any work van on the roof, they have a one-inch bead of the stuff coneccting the sides and the roof...american quality (Fords are the worst, check a Econovan). When used correctly autobody glues are extreamly strong and very worth while, no warping, no chance of buring what behind it, superior rust pretection ect. But you need to have experience with that as well to do it right, it is very temermental stuff to have a 10+ year fix. If you dont care about the looks and longevity of the car, take a crack at it and build some experience. If you do care about it, save you money and go to a reputable shop. If it is cheap, its crap. Simple as that, a quality galon of just basecoat will run $300 for a cheap color, and thats just base. There are 90% rip off artists in the autobody field so do you homework and get some previous customers opinons. And in all honosty, it will be cheaper in the long run and have afar better product to go to your quality bodyshop and have it done. You need many specialized tools for that repair as well as you wont use al lthe paint you buy and end up wasteing 25% or so of your material because you can not buy a pint of this and a quart of that, many comes in gallons and quarts of things you dont need but a few ounces of. Not to mention the many many hours it would take you to do it. Prolly if you worked the time it takes you to fix it at your regualr job you woudl; be able to pay it im sure.
So for your case, no you do not need a new quarter, at all. She is real fixable and should be realitively inxpensive. Just from your picks I would think thats about a $500 for a general estimate from a collison center, and I dont mean Macco---burn in hell Macco, ahhah. Cause of them everyone thinks a show paint job is $275, again, simple basecoat isnt that cheap.
So good luck and let me know if you need any more help. I started my biz cause I was furious with people doing hack work for good money and lieing to people. I hate to see someone get shafted. GOOD LUCK!!!
So for your case, no you do not need a new quarter, at all. She is real fixable and should be realitively inxpensive. Just from your picks I would think thats about a $500 for a general estimate from a collison center, and I dont mean Macco---burn in hell Macco, ahhah. Cause of them everyone thinks a show paint job is $275, again, simple basecoat isnt that cheap.
So good luck and let me know if you need any more help. I started my biz cause I was furious with people doing hack work for good money and lieing to people. I hate to see someone get shafted. GOOD LUCK!!!
11-02-06, 06:45 PM
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PS. Cars are not brazed together, they are tig welded. Looks gold like brazing but it's not. DO NOT ever braze a car if you plan to use any type of plastic filler or coating over it. There is a chance that the bronze and other flux materials in the rod can react in the future with the coatings over it.
Rock out-
Rock out-
11-02-06, 06:48 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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thanks for all the info. as stated my friend sprays so hes gonna paint the car....maybe i will just have a professional fix it for me then...there is a guy called " the dent dude" here that is very good at his job..maybe ill give him a call....
im just trying to get the experience under my belt for body work...i can paint decent but id rather have a person tht paints everyday than someone that paints every 12 months(me)..
id like to try and fix this myself before i call in for back up.
im just trying to get the experience under my belt for body work...i can paint decent but id rather have a person tht paints everyday than someone that paints every 12 months(me)..
id like to try and fix this myself before i call in for back up.
11-05-06, 02:49 PM
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Engine, Not Motor
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I ignored your first post because there was too much misinformation to correct. Now I'm not a body guy and I don't work in a "high end body shop" but I do have enough experience to recognize wrong when I see it...like below.
You must be kidding...The FC is spot welded like any car of the era and most modern cars. And if you have ever taken apart an FC, you will clearly see where the factory brazed seams are...Any brazing flux must be removed before painting and there are solvents available to do so available at any welding shop...
Originally Posted by bean13
PS. Cars are not brazed together, they are tig welded. Looks gold like brazing but it's not. DO NOT ever braze a car if you plan to use any type of plastic filler or coating over it. There is a chance that the bronze and other flux materials in the rod can react in the future with the coatings over it.
Rock out-
Rock out-
11-05-06, 02:57 PM
#18
Passing life by
oh **** sorry about that glue stuff. I went into the shop to fab some oil drains for someone yesterday and I forgot to write the number down for you. I will get it for you.
Oh and yea Aaron is right about that the cars are brazed and brazing is an extremely strong method. The rest is spot welded no tig welding on there tiging is not much of an industrial friendly welding method and costs to much. 99% of factory mass machining and productions are mig and brazed.
Oh and yea Aaron is right about that the cars are brazed and brazing is an extremely strong method. The rest is spot welded no tig welding on there tiging is not much of an industrial friendly welding method and costs to much. 99% of factory mass machining and productions are mig and brazed.
11-05-06, 05:09 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I ignored your first post because there was too much misinformation to correct. Now I'm not a body guy and I don't work in a "high end body shop" but I do have enough experience to recognize wrong when I see it...like below.
You must be kidding...The FC is spot welded like any car of the era and most modern cars. And if you have ever taken apart an FC, you will clearly see where the factory brazed seams are...Any brazing flux must be removed before painting and there are solvents available to do so available at any welding shop...
You must be kidding...The FC is spot welded like any car of the era and most modern cars. And if you have ever taken apart an FC, you will clearly see where the factory brazed seams are...Any brazing flux must be removed before painting and there are solvents available to do so available at any welding shop...
???im assuming thats aimed towards the person you quoted????
i get the car this saturday and i will bring a friend here to see what he thinks...ill let you all know what we decide....
11-05-06, 08:42 PM
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11-21-06, 06:40 PM
#21
tom port.. AKA streetport
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i think im going to maybe get some wide body fenders....
although, wouldnt just running the rear 30MM from
http://www.raceonusa.com/index.asp?P...&Category=8978
be to wide if i just used the rear fenders and not the front fenders?? would that look strange?
would those cover the entire dent?
although, wouldnt just running the rear 30MM from
http://www.raceonusa.com/index.asp?P...&Category=8978
be to wide if i just used the rear fenders and not the front fenders?? would that look strange?
would those cover the entire dent?
11-21-06, 07:14 PM
#23
Interruptor Illuminada
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Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
i think im going to maybe get some wide body fenders....
although, wouldnt just running the rear 30MM from
http://www.raceonusa.com/index.asp?P...&Category=8978
be to wide if i just used the rear fenders and not the front fenders?? would that look strange?
would those cover the entire dent?
although, wouldnt just running the rear 30MM from
http://www.raceonusa.com/index.asp?P...&Category=8978
be to wide if i just used the rear fenders and not the front fenders?? would that look strange?
would those cover the entire dent?
It would look strange. Someone on here did that with a GTUs to cover up a rear quarter dent. Wheels weren't wide enough and front was flared...looked odd.
11-21-06, 07:38 PM
#24
Reppin' the Burbs
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Just pull those creases as much as possible then sand and bondo the rest, I hate to say it but it doesn't take a genious to do body work.
Here was my project last may that also happened to be a rear quarter.
as you can see the fender was completely rusted out.
so we welded a new one in, including welds on the inside.
and this is after I did the body work and had the car painted.
I had no previous experience doing body work at all. Hope this give you some confidence to do it yourself, just remember to block everything out and it'll look pretty good!
Here was my project last may that also happened to be a rear quarter.
as you can see the fender was completely rusted out.
so we welded a new one in, including welds on the inside.
and this is after I did the body work and had the car painted.
I had no previous experience doing body work at all. Hope this give you some confidence to do it yourself, just remember to block everything out and it'll look pretty good!