I was looking at the pd on my car and was thinking of a way to keep it from leaking. I was thinking, since there is an indentation where the screw is located, why not just solder a small circle of metal (for instance, a penny) over the cap so the screw physically cant back out. No screw backing out= no leaking fuel. Will i be correct in doing this? I wanted to check before hand to see if there is something im not getting, and possibly ruin my pd. Has anybody ever tried this?

 

damn, why do people d*ck around with this?! this is IMPORTANT...

there is this one place(i'll search for it) that sells it for i think $75! get a new one!

 

yeah, get the S5 rail, where the PD is permanently affixed.

 

Simple answer: dicking around with it would insist me messing with it. Note i havent done anything YET. I like to run it by others first.

Its just i simple curiosity, considering i dont have $100 just lying around. Mine hasnt begun to leak yet, but i figure better safe than sorry.

I cant see why this wouldnt work anyway, can anyone shed some light?

 

yeah, sorry for that.. i'm trying to find the place that sells it for real cheap. i would just save my money and get it. or go with the S5 one. but i really wouldn't do something like that.

 

If you do get the S5 one, be aware that there is one difference I noticed. Where the 2 bolts hold the rail on the S4 rail, one bolt is longer to account for a raised portion. On the S5 rail, the mounting point is flat, so you'll need to get a short bolt (or cut it) or put some sort of spacer there for the longer bolt. No biggie.

 

Alright, if i do get the s5 rail how much am i looking at spending? Not too many junkyards around here have rx7's, and ive never seen any s5 versions. Is there a place that i can get a used one for cheap, maybe online?

Also, can anyone tell me why the idea wouldnt work? (just so i get a little more insight as to how the pd works)

Thanks

 

where do u get one for $75? I paid like 120 for mine at mazdatrix

 

no luck so far... i KNOW they're somewhere in this cyber world.. i'll look again when i get back.

 

there's alway the banjo bolt

 

try mazdacomp

 

I like the sounds of this "banjo bolt"
sounds musical

 

The missing screw does not cause the pulsation damper to leak. Leaks are caused by a torn diaphram.

You can swap on the S5 fuel rail for a damper that's less likely to leak, you can replace your existing damper (why not just replace it? The replacement will be good for another 10+ years...) or you can move to an aftermarket damper.

 

Cheapest way is to get a spare bolt from the other end of the fuel rail (ask around, people have 'em) and put it in place of the PD.

-=Russ=-

 

Of course, the pulsation damper is a necessary part of the fuel system. Replacing it with a bolt defeats that. Why not just replace the damper and do a proper repair?

 

Come on Aaron, you know the answer to that...it saves $130 plus labor. I never did it on my NA bc, honestly, I was lazy and unconcerned. I never smelled fuel etc... However, now that my TII conversion is just about done I'll be ordering one very soon. Once the motor is broken in I'll be swapping in 720cc's and a brand spankin new pulsation damper. It hasn't been proven that a banjo bolt causes any issues, but if I'm already around the rail replacing injectors, this seems like a smart thing to do. This way, I'm totally insured it won't giveme any trouble. With the new motor and all the new parts I have going in right now (labor not included) I've spent just over $3500.00...another $130 isn't gonna send me to the poor-house

 

When a P.D starts to leak, where does the fuel come out of? The screw hole or from under the cap?

 

Still, how much am i looking at spending for an s5 fuel rail?

 

That's certainly the best solution. I was pointing out a cheap solution. And a banjo bolt is certainly better than supergluing something to it and calling it fixed, correct?

On that topic, while my car's apart, anyone have a cheap unused PD they want to sell me?

-=Russ=-

 

But when the S5 PD leaks (and they do) then you have to replace the whole rail... much better choice to replace a $100 PD instead of a $200 PD rail combo.

For those uneducated people that think the S5 rail is better go down and take a look at it... see the little rubber stopper at the PD end??? That is the same as the screw on a S4 PD. As sson as that rubber snaps the PD fails... S5 fire fire fire

 

when i put the bolt in removed the rat's nest.

a good majority of that was solid lines (1ft or more). When you removed that you get about 3ft of rubber lines. from the filter to the start of the rail.

solid lines don't expand but the rubber lines do and it helps to do the job the pd did.

It's not the best solution but alot cheaper if your on a budget.

 

I just did the parallel fuel mod myself and used -AN fittings, SS braided line and a Aeromotive FPR. This does cost a bit more than just buying a PD though I'm pretty sure I'm well over a grand on just fuel system parts, and I still need to buy bigger primaries eventually..

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html

There is always going to be a raging debate on whether the PD is required or not.  I do not personally think it's required, and I'd rather take a chance of locking up my fuel injectors (which they haven't done yet) rather than risk another fire (which I have already gone through).



-Ted

 

I've replaced my PD with a banjo bolt. I have had zero issues. No decrease in gas mileage or flooding etc. Spend $20 bucks on a banjo bolt and replace. Or if you're rich buy a new s4 pd.

 

I have the banjo bolt in mine and have had no problems. I have also done a quick fix to others cars that has never failed. Another local rotary guy taught me it and he has been working solely on rotaries for 20+ years.

Pop off the plastic cover and make sure the screw is all the way in, than put a dab of silicone on there and put the plastic cover back on.