I took my 87 n/a out to the drag strip to see what it would run. This was my first time racing with a tree and the whole track thing.

First run Second run
R/T 1.147 .399
60' 2.547 2.660
330' 7.089 7.189
1/8 10.816 10.889
MPH 65.78 66.35
1000' 14.036 14.081
1/4 16.754 16.779
MPH 83.01 83.49

I launched at 3000 rpms the first run and 2500 rpms the second run. I was disappointed, I thought I was in the 15 second range. Someone help me get into low 15s, high 14s.

My mods
Intake
Mindtrain Headers
A/C removed
550cc secondaries

I have a little under 5000 miles on my rebuilt motor with a stock port.

Even though I didn't get the time I wanted, the whole thing with racing at the drag strip was cool.

 

Your trap speed seems a little low if you ask me... maybe that's an average trap speed for an na with those mods... just seems kinda low to me

 

You need to work on the launch some. A 2.5 60' really isnt very good. You should be able to cut that down to damn near a 2.0 or even 1.9. Also you are running 550 secondaries without any type of fuel controller? Even with the stock 460s N/As run rich in the higher rpms. Those 550s are probably killing top end HP, which is like the only thing N/As have going for them. Are yoy still running the stock cat and cat-back?

 

Yes, stock cat and I have 2.25 pipes from cat to stock replacement mufflers. For a quicker launch, should I raise rpms for the launch. I had a little wheel spin of the line, even at 2500 rpms.

 

Looks like (and Id imagine you were) bogging on the launched. Rev to 5000rpm and slip the clutch next time you go. Dont dump it. Hell even taking with some of the other drivers (the fast ones, not the dumbass people in shitty cars cutting slower times than you ) and see if they have any advice can go a long way.

 

put the stock injectors back in you'll be faster

 

Lower rear wheel pressure to about 18-20 psi. Rev a bit higher and drop that clutch like a *****.... Make sure that you shift real real quick as well and be sure to redline it in every gear.....Most NAs will cross the 1/4 mile while redlining 3rd gear. My specific NA is more geared towards autox with a lightweight flywheel and I drop my clutch at about 5500 rpm hehehehehe and I take 1st gear in to about 7500rpm and then 2nd to about 7900 rpm and then I cross the line deep in to the redline around 7500 rpm in 3rd.

-Lee

 

Damn you people!
My N/a rx7's run 17.4=88SE and so far my 88gtu=17.0

I so have to do a compression test. That's the only thing I haven't checked.

 

Whats the altitude of your track? Plus how well run the track is plays a huge role.

 

Your 60' time is what is killing you. You could improve your 1/4 mile by almost a sec. with a better launch. Why are you running those injectors? You have no need for more fuel yet, so put your stock ones back on.

 

u shouldnt use any larger injector on the NA w/o an AFC or AFR for fuel control. rip that cat out

 

get some better exhaust, ditch the larger injectors (wtf you got those in there for anyway?), and practice.

 

a stock port N/A will NEVER need 550cc secondaries, neither will any sp (that i know of). I think the only time an N/A needs bigger secondaries would be likea BP, but you're way from that my freind. Sell them and put 460s around, you'll notice quite a difference. Leaner=quicker (well....... unless you start pinging).

 

I got the 550cc injectors in because my old 460's were leaking bad and the 550cc were just cleaned and I got them for cheap. I can't get rid of the cat until I get something to control the actuators for my aux ports.

 

Use your airpump to do it, remove the cat, put 440's back in, and be happy. Sound good?

 

I was thinking of activating them electronically like this web site
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/electrical/6_ports.html
That way I could remove the cat and the air pump, along with some other emissons crap, but I'm gonna have to put it back on every two years for smog.

 

Ahh, that way's kind of expensive though, and since you have to put it on anyway, might as well use it to your advantage

 

For that, all I do is connect the actuators to the air pump and have a valve control it. How do I test and adjust it for it to come on properly?

 

Ditto on the injectors. Kinda like saying my rotary engine was blown so I put in a powerstroke diesel cause i had one lying around

James

 

You can adjust the valve's rate, so you just turn it until they open when you want them to.

 

the thing that I found cut my time more than anything was working on my shifting technique, all I do when shifting is feather the clutch and just BARELY let off the gas so I dont overrev and throw the shifter as fast as you can, having a fresh clutch will drop at least a few 10ths off your time, I put in a new clutch and dropped over 2/10ths off my 1/8th mile time.

 

put in the stock injectors, launch better and you'll be in the 15's easy.

 

Can anyone show me what the valve to control the actuators from the airpump looks like, or what it is called exactly? I going to put the stock injectors back in tomorrow morning.

 

Basically you just want to get a simple ball valve from home depot or something, you can either get a two way valve with a reducer on one side hooked to your actuators, have one open vented, and close it about 2/3rds the way, then close the 6port one, get someone to rev the car to about 4K rpm and adjust them so that they just open fully at about 4krpm.

 

Ya I did that for awhile. In my studies though I read somewhere that you should have them open around 3200rpms instead of 4K, I guess after 3200rpms they are a restiction.