killmenow423

Im happy cuz i got my car on the road.
Except the car would get to like 2500rpms and just stop accelerating but as time went on the engine ran better and better and we got it up to 5500rpms.
Im scared cuz my engine is overheating now(kinda).
Cuz the engine isn't actually hot the anti-freeze starts to boil and then it starts shooting out of the overflow tank.
And i don't believe there are any leaks...
And i ordered a new radiator but i did a little research and im scared i might need to rebuild cuz of a blown coolant seal or something.

P.S. - i did install a new thermostat and the radiator cap seems to be okay
Please Help ME!

GTUDRIFTER

Buy a new radiator cap...and did you replace the thermostat with a mazda genuine part thermostat or a stant?

Also if yours is a S4 replace the water filler neck cap

killmenow423

well my car is a N/A 87' base and i just got the thermostat from autozone i have no idea what company makes it.
And what does the radiator cap haev to do with anything?...and where do i get a new one?

dr0x

Different caps will pressurize the cooling system to wrong levels. And some aftermarket thermostats dont open early enough causing you to run hotter.

Pinfield357

mazdatirx has both the cap and the thermostat you really should only use a mazda thermostat the aftermarket ones are junk.

you could also try having your cooling system flushed

killmenow423

But even with that stuff i should be able to run my car without the anti-freeze boiling! Even though my wngine isn't that hot im still afraid that the anti-freeze could be doing damage to my engine.

88IntegraLS

How new is the coolant (anti-freeze)? If it is old it might not do as well as fresh coolant. I think 55% coolant to 45% water mix is the best for high boiling temperature.

If it is actually overheating (temp gauge past 3/4), I would do a flush of the cooling system. If that does not fix the overheating, replace the radiator. Also replace any soft or spongy coolant hoses . . . you will curse those stock hose clamps when the heater hose on the firewall springs a leak due to the wire clamp.

killmenow423

i ordered my new radiator friday
just the OEM N/A radiator form www.Radiatrox.com

ViperKillerWannabe

Actually, it would. Go to the nearest mazda dealer and get the correct parts.

Amur_

Incorrect.

The anti-freeze in the mixture is there for two reasons. To prevent corrosion within the cooling system and to prevent freezing of the mixture. NOTHING carries heat better than water. I run with a 70/30 (water/coolant) mixture year-round in Canada (there are two bottles of Water Wetter in that, which I put on the water side of the ratio) with no probs.

The more water, the more effective your mix will be at moving heat from the motor to the rad.


killmenow - if you want to answer your blown-seal fears right now, go to your car when it's cold, open the hood, remove the rad cap and then start the car. If coolant geysers out, she's blown. If it farts out a little or doesn't do anything at all, don't sweat it - your problem is something else... Start by replacing the rad cap and thermostat like has been suggested.

Have you checked the front of your rad to see if there's any junk blocking air flow through it?

As for power, have you done this - after a drive, stick your head under the car and look at the cat. Is it glowing? If so, it's blocked and there's your power problem (the motor can't breathe.)

Have you checked the snorkle and air box for obstructions? How new is the air filter? Have you checked your voltage at the coils (see the FSM for procedure)? Have you checked your spark plug wires?

Also, have you done a compression test recently?

rotary>piston

also, did you air bleed the cooling system? If you have air bubbles everywhere it will overheat.

killmenow423

i got a new air filter, checked the sp wires and ive checked the coils...alll fine but i haven't checked compresion.
More Help please!

tintagel

What if you don't get geysering coolant, but you do get a small stream of little bubbles?

ilike2eatricers

I believe if you have a small stream of bubbles it means that you have air in your coolant system and need to bleed off the air. Little air bubbles may cause your coolant light to go off.

killmenow423

i got my radiator in with some minor adjustments cuz they sent me the wrong one i didn't want to pay more for another one. An dit runs but stills has a problem with accelerating past 2500rpms (only one in awhile) and idleing stedely but im not runnign it very long cuz i think i need a water pump and i don't want to overheat my new radiator.

P.S. - im not buying from www.radiatrox.com anytime soon...

Wankels-Revenge

Ya i have a problem similar to this on my 87 base n/a. I've changed the coolant filler cap and the thermostat. I noticed a slight improvement but it still runs hotter than i'm comfortable with. It goes up to about the half way mark on the gauge, and when it idles it creeps past half a bit, but it doesn't really go beyond that point. I drained the rad of all the fluid and changed the fluid in the overflow tank, but i didn't drain the block (lazy).
Before i changed the cap and the thermostat, the fluid would boil and spill out of the overflow tank...at this point it still boils but not as bad, and it doesn't spill out of the overflow tank anymore.
Is it normal for the coolant to boil, or at least bubble a bit?

By the way, killmenow423, sorry about horning in on your thread

rx7raca

one question i have for you is, do you still have your cats? if so check them after a drive, if they are glowing red then this could be a reason for both not reving high an your engine getting little warmer than usual. get back to us with your results.

rx7raca

NOOOO think about what you just said, im not tryin to be a dick...what does it mean when water is boiling? it means its reallly really hot, which your engine should not be, your going to end the life of your engine very quickly if you run it that hot. the cooling system is very important, most likely the most important thing on these cars, its what keeps the rotary alive.

the mazda cooling system is the best. so in order to get it to the right cooling temp, you need to replace everything with oem(mazda) parts. no aftermarket crap.

if that doesnt solve your problems then you might have a blown coolent seal.

trust me on this guys i know what it takes to blow a coolent seal an housing side wall when over heating.
correct me if im wrong on this.

Wankels-Revenge

No you're right..the boiling coolant did strike me as slightly odd
I dunno where the problem is tho, my cats could be clogged up...god only knows my exhaust is pretty effed up. Could also be my rad, but when i drained the fluid it seemed to flow out fine.
There aren't any leaks but i'll check again.
How much resistance should the upper rad hose give if i squeeze it? It could be that there isn't enough pressure in the system.

Let me state right now that i have no problems when running the car...whatsoever. Runs fine through any rpm, quick as hell, can squeal my winter tires pretty good. Just a slightly higher than normal running temp. All the parts i've used so far are OEM mazda parts (expensive like a ****).

By the way..the only problem i have is that damn surging idle. I've adjusted the tps already and played with the idle screw. The fact that i can't get below 1500 rpm tells me its a vacuum leak. Could this be related?

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

I'm wondering if he filled it with coolant, and went. Instead of filling it with coolant, running it until the thermostat opens, and topping it off.

Wankels-Revenge

Oh i topped it off. Thanks for lookin out tho

GEINN FC3S

im kinda a noob here, but ive read around these forums lately , and it says if u cant accelerate , then you should unbolt everything and run it from the headers, if you run just fine, then something is clogged up some where along the exhaust piping for sure. i dunno if im right about this but it doesnt hurt to try. =)

Wankels-Revenge

I've been doing some heavy research on cooling issues and i think i've gotten more confused (figures..).
I probably should start my own thread on this but thats a waste of a thread really. Anyway, my car runs perfectly except it seems like it runs hotter than normal. Its an s4 and according to internet wisdom i should be at about 1/4 of the temp. gauge. Right now, when i run the car for a good 5 minutes (running it fairly hard) it'll hit the halfway mark. When i let it sit and idle in my driveway afterwards it creeps slightly past the halfway mark. When i turn it off i can hear the coolant moving back into the rad and its boiling at this point.
Question 1: When i turn the car off should the coolant be boiling like that?
Question 2: If the water pump is bad will it steam when its hot?
Question 3: How do i know if i have an s5 enigine (maybe i have one and don't realize it )

Sorry for my ignorance but i just bought the car and don't know crap about its history.
(I gotta stop reading the damn archives..i think im getting paranoid)

Wankels-Revenge

Ok its fixed, everything is cooling as it should be.
Thanks all for the help

BrandonDrecksage

well...how did u fix it...i'm havin the same problems...i jsut read that it could be my clutch fan...that if that is gone, the car will overheat at low speeds or when it is stopped...also, what should my idoit gauge read normally?.....its is usually about 1/2