fire prevention RX7 style
#2
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
the screw on the pressure regulator backing out. common. i have a 93 camry that i bought with an "exploded injector". it was that the screw backed out and was spraying gas all over the place. i threaded it back in and the car runs superb! your choice whether you want to thread it back in or replace it.
#4
Rotaries confuse me
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
the screw on the pressure regulator backing out. common. i have a 93 camry that i bought with an "exploded injector". it was that the screw backed out and was spraying gas all over the place. i threaded it back in and the car runs superb! your choice whether you want to thread it back in or replace it.
#6
As I progress through my upgrades I`ll be doing the "banjo bolt mod" to deal with this issue. Don`t start in on me over this method. I`ve read a shitload of posts concerning this and I believe I`ll side with Rotary Ressurection on this. The man has worked on many more of these engines than most of us ever will. Down the road I`ll most likely go with an aftermarket FPR and will select one that has a built in dampener.
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#9
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
problem with JB weld is the PD vibrates and expands/contracts so it won't stick and threadlocker will only hold it for so long. just because the screw is backed out doesn't mean it is leaking but it does seal it in case the diaphragm does begin to leak.
nothing wrong with the banjo bolt mod IMO, i use it in my car as well.
nothing wrong with the banjo bolt mod IMO, i use it in my car as well.
#12
Originally Posted by Karack
problem with JB weld is the PD vibrates and expands/contracts so it won't stick and threadlocker will only hold it for so long. just because the screw is backed out doesn't mean it is leaking but it does seal it in case the diaphragm does begin to leak.
nothing wrong with the banjo bolt mod IMO, i use it in my car as well.
nothing wrong with the banjo bolt mod IMO, i use it in my car as well.
#13
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
yeah, i did mean the damper, lol. i'm glad you posted about it. a lot of the newer guys here aren't aware of the danger of how its prone to leaking. perhaps someone could post pics and a step by step on how to prevent leakage. i personally am a fan of the jb weld idea. if its applied correctly and it dries properly, it should last a long time.
#14
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Originally Posted by fredster102
okay lol i dont want to sound dumb but where around the intake is the PD , on a 88N/a
#15
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The screw being out does not mean it has failed.
DO NOT put epoxy over it, that will tear the diaphram on a brand new PD. the screw moves in and out slightly while the PD is working.
reinstall the screw with red loctite, careful not to overtighten as this can tear the diaphram too.
or, Buy a new PD, they should be replaced every few year to be safe.
DO NOT put epoxy over it, that will tear the diaphram on a brand new PD. the screw moves in and out slightly while the PD is working.
reinstall the screw with red loctite, careful not to overtighten as this can tear the diaphram too.
or, Buy a new PD, they should be replaced every few year to be safe.
#18
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by My5ABaby
I've been told you can braze something over the hole (bronze?).
The fuel can leak through the crimp seams on the PD itself.
-Ted
#19
Originally Posted by fastrotaries
This is pretty much common knowledge. You can put threadlocker on that OR replace it with an S5 model
#20
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
yeah, i did mean the damper, lol. i'm glad you posted about it. a lot of the newer guys here aren't aware of the danger of how its prone to leaking. perhaps someone could post pics and a step by step on how to prevent leakage. i personally am a fan of the jb weld idea. if its applied correctly and it dries properly, it should last a long time.
DO NOT put anything that can stop the screws movement on the screw head.
Look guys, the screw moves in and out. If you JB weld or expoxy or even use a bugar from your nose, the screw can and will hit it, leading to the internal diapharam ripping all the sooner.
There is a reason the plastic cap is there. It is there to prevent dirt and hoses and wires and anything else from hitting the top of the screw.
#23
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by loskeezy
not ttrying to butt-in, but how can you tell if an S5 PD has failed since it's internal?
The rubber tab will fall out
The rubber tab will stay in, but gas will start leaking out only when driving
The rubber tab will stay in, and gas will spray out/around it when the engine is running.
#24
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
Originally Posted by Icemark
NO,
DO NOT put anything that can stop the screws movement on the screw head.
Look guys, the screw moves in and out. If you JB weld or expoxy or even use a bugar from your nose, the screw can and will hit it, leading to the internal diapharam ripping all the sooner.
There is a reason the plastic cap is there. It is there to prevent dirt and hoses and wires and anything else from hitting the top of the screw.
DO NOT put anything that can stop the screws movement on the screw head.
Look guys, the screw moves in and out. If you JB weld or expoxy or even use a bugar from your nose, the screw can and will hit it, leading to the internal diapharam ripping all the sooner.
There is a reason the plastic cap is there. It is there to prevent dirt and hoses and wires and anything else from hitting the top of the screw.
for the sake of asking, but not being doubtful mark, but how its it that the screw moves in and out when its threaded? i understand the concept that you're talking about, but i think i'd like more info on this.
#25
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
for the sake of asking, but not being doubtful mark, but how its it that the screw moves in and out when its threaded? i understand the concept that you're talking about, but i think i'd like more info on this.
In normal operation that plate moves up and down as needed and the plate moves up and down.
Then the S5/ S6 is simular:
Yellow (of course) is fuel
Last edited by Icemark; 01-28-07 at 12:23 PM.