Well its not the greatest. but i can deffinatly feel a difference. cost me $20 for the tubing at autozone and a few minutes for removing the washer fluid tank. And a few more minutes for makeing a 3 inch hole

 

congradulations you did a CAI the right way, props, nice low budget upgrade, thank you so much for not putting the air cleaner down in front of the wheel like an idiot, lol

 

get some aluminum and heat shielding material and make yourself a shield to block out the engine heat to your filter.

 

That's not a true CAI, you're going to get a bunch of hot engine bay air still and that tiny duct really wont be supplying much air. Now if you enclosed the duct and filter entirely in a box, that'd be different, but right now it's very similar to just a cone filter in the engine bay.

 

and why is that stupid? why do idiots put it down there? you need to elaborate why this is "stupid" because alot of us think opposite ... im interested in what you have to say

 

i'll be puttin in in front of the wheel when i'm at the track. But it gets WAY to dirty being down there for daily driving.

 

Hmmm? I don't get how this is a problem? If you're talking generally putting the air filter OUTSIDE of the engine bay that is what true cold air really is, which is what almost NO people do. Having the filter outside the engine bay provides cooler air than you'll get inside, thus cold air. Now if you're talking about any time anyone puts it outside is stupid, well then I'll have to disagree.

I'm curious as well as to what you mean.

 

4k miles with mine right behind the headlight motor, wheel still blocked by the wheel well lining so not much gets kicked up, filter still perfectly clean. It's all about where you place it, and how high up you go to keep it clean.

 

exactly what he said... i put several thousand miles on mine with no problems.. just routine k&n cleaning and oiling..... again like i say on several other topics, unless you have personal exp then dont make any comments, and if you do have personal exp then make sure you even built it right... like ddub said you need to replace all the plastic linings under the car after installing this and viola no dirt can get up in there from the road

 

where can those vented headlight covers be purchased?

 

You should have done what I did with mine. Same concept except the filter sits where the washerfluid tank is and a aluminum 90 will connect it to the afm. Thats the coldest air you can get.

 

i built it myself

 

another reason you dont put in front of the wheel is so dirt and water ans **** doesnt get flung onto it

 

If the CAI box is ventilated well enough and sealed from the rest of the engine bay I don't see why it wouldn't be getting just as cold air as if it's in front of the wheel. Even if it is colder by 10 degrees or something like that, then whoop-dee-doo, an extra .25 HP! I'd rather have my CAI in the engine bay and know that it fares a much better chance of survival than in front of the wheel, especially in rain, dirt roads (still driving on dirt roads in the year 2005, jeez), etc.

 

since im not the body fabrication type of guy, is there any companys that pre-make those headlight covers, or is there anyone that could make one for me for a nominal fee.

 

Cork Sport Headlight Cover Duct

$89us

Been meaning to get one of those......

 

wow great that cold air i bet does next to nothing..
ive had my intake behine the passenger side gof light for a long long time with no problems and the filter was no even that dirty after i took it off after 6 months of driving.
i have it inside the engine bay for now ill i can build better piping

 

Has anyone ever built a sealed box? I have a hole cut right now and am cutting up a spare brake duct to route air up to the intake and was gonna build a two-walled box that just used the hood to seal on the top.

I was thinking a sealed box with aluminum covering the top would be a better idea as long as the pipe below (mine will be 3") is large enough to allow enough air volume to come through and not choke my poor engine.

 

well what if its hot out and humid? its not TRUE cold air. , and yes every one that i have seen(i havent done)has had there engine die or just cut out real bad from the water issue,dirt no(kits for there car). so thats why i made a sealed box(vented out side of course )and have my nice little alum. CO2 bottle hooked to a solinoid(with a rpm switch, duhh) and at 3000rpm wahla regulated(15psi) CO2 at a constant COLD AIR, now thats tru CAI , its an N/A and is torn down now to put a turbo on,i just bought the parts this week so hopfully it will be done soon.,but after i put the IC in front im guna tap off the same line and make a halo ring that mounts to the IC,so that indeed will be tru cold air too. oh and by the way i do have a normal switch between the rpm switch for shut off, other wise id be spending more on CO2 than gas.

 

Even if it's hot and humid outside, it's still cooler than the air under your hood

 

True.dat On a 50 degree day the temps near my air filter have been upwards of 105 degrees after 20 minutes of city driving (highway it drops down to ~70 degrees).

Here's another good question to throw out there related to this topic.

I have a shiny aluminum 3" pipe sitting here from a Prelude (rice kit, should give me +20hp vtec power ) and was thinking of chopping it off to fit and get some of those home depot 3" rubber pipe fittings (like the IC guys use) and connect it between the MAF and throttle body.

The only problem is that it won't have a nipple for the BAC's air intake thus robbing me of proper BAC function (it actually does work on my car!). I do have a little air filter that used to be on my air pump before that got yanked, so I was thinking of putting that on the end of the metal pipe that runs behind the UIM and feeds fresh air to the BAC. Any feedback on that idea. Good, or retarded? Keep in mind that this home-boy doesn't have any welding skills.

 

wtf are you talking about... do you even have a clue? look at the wheel and where the filter sits when you do this mod... there is no way for dirt or water to get "flung" on to the filter.... man when are people going to realize that your motor doesnt suck so much air it will vaccum up water..... ****.... take a glass of water and hold it right under the intake or on it ..... how much water are you missing after that? NONE because the motor isnt a wet/dry vaccum

 

i've been driving around all day in the pouring rain with no problems... Oh yeah and i moved the filter down in front of the air dam

 

Your halway there. Now take 3 inch piping that you can get at autozone and the proper adapters and run it from the backside of the AFM to the T/body elbow. Remember that oem air intake hose is ribbed inside to reduce air noise which impedes air flow. Also autozone has a heat protector to go around your filter to shield it from the engine bay side. Then reroute your Air intake Temp sensor to either the rear of the AFM by using a 1/8 pipe tap or run it infront of the AFM hwere the cone filter attaches to the AFM. What this does is tell the ECU that the air is coler or denser and will give a better fuel delivery.

 

That setup will be fine - once you build a shield or box around the filter. You have a source of cold air - not you just need to stop the hot air from easily reaching the intake.

And to address the filter location issue that has sprouted (as it ALWAYS does in these threads) I am going to quote myself from another almost identical thread: