Thanks. I have ordered a replacement ECU. Once i have it in my hands, it goes to Rtek. Where I will have them install the socket and 1.0. I have Jaso Fc spec oil (several cases) that I cannot sell due to equipment now needing Jaso Fd rated oil for warranty. These bottles are for 50:1 at 2.5 gallons of fuel, so they will be perfect. 5 gallons fuel to 1 bottle if oil. This is how I intend to prevent reoccurance of MOP failure. These parts aren't getting any newer you know.

 

nope, but i do plan to dissect one to see if they may be repairable.

i often wonder why no one else takes up the stick on these projects.. there is money to be made in refurbishing these parts.

 

My post a few up mention that I had repaired my ECU. It can be done, but the used MOP I got on ebay took my repaired CPU out about 6 months later...these parts are just getting old. Rtek is the best route now a days unless you could get a brand new MOP....end of the day my old MOP lasted 20 years so a brand new one would probably last just as long...barring you want to pay Mazda $1000 for a new one...LOL!

 

i meant rebuilding the OMP, they are 90% the root cause of all failures including wiring and fried ECUs.

and a new OMP isn't $1000, it is $1600. all the electronic components are extremely expensive so a rebuilding service would definitely be something people would look for. if you could refurbish and sell them for under $400, they would sell, and i highly doubt it would even be that involved but i have been wrong in the past.

the biggest hurdle seems to be actually disassembling some of these parts. i attempted to rebuild an ABS unit but it laughed at my 500ft/lb impact gun.. so that has stalled for now. rebuilt ABS units are $1700, new they are $3700. the working parts actually rarely fail, it is the 10 cent modulator o-rings that fail that cause them to be junk and get ripped out! except that simple allen bolt that won't budge keeps it all together and not easy to disassemble even if you have the right tools for the job. i feel like the whole thing is going to explode under the stress of trying to remove that one simple bolt..


most of these parts are extremely easy to repair once you figure out how to disassemble and reassemble them properly and get used to it.

 

Speaking of OMP failure, how hard would it be to put in a fuse of somesort to keep the ecu from burning out? When it gets right down to it the reason the ecu fries is because a short happens in the omp and too much voltage goes to the ecu. Sounds to me like a job for a fuse or breaker.

 

transistors do not require a high load to burn out on the circuit they are controlling, so the trace may have actually burned on the low side of the circuit which is part of the ECU.

 

The OMP failing is only on the S5(1989 - 1992) years.The S4 used a OMP that was mechanical which from a longevity point of view probably is a better system, but burns more oil than the electric S5 OMP.

I believe you can use an S4 OMP on an S5. I seem to recall when my OMP failed the EE in me took it apart to see if it was fixable, I don't recall what I discovered, but seem to remember that it was next to impossible to repair.

But I agree with RotaryEvolution that if someone was able to rebuild these probably could make some money selling them...Premixing can sometime be a pain when all you want to do is stop and fill up fast and not worry how much 2-stroke oil you need to mix in! And as in my experience, buying a used OMP is just delaying what I think is the inevitable.

 

i've had known good used OMPs go bad simply by sitting on the shelf so it's going to be a big problem going forward for those with S5's.

they usually go into fail mode on hot days at full operating temperature. many work fine until that point and even recover until those perameters are met again so in my experiences the issue is generally heat related.

 

Not unless you change the front cover and the throttle body.

I have been toying with doing something with these T.P.S's when I get some time.

That's why I'm going the Rtek route.

1, Time is a rare commodity for me these days. 2, FC owners are notoriously cheap.

This is why I'm replacing the ECU. My time is worth money. I bought a Cali ECU for less than $50.

 

true but when given the choice, most FC owners would probably pay a few bucks to actually have the engine run/drive and not have to go through the hassle of the OMP blockoff and premixing.

 

hmm really? we got it apart, maybe try a different ABS unit, or longer wrench, or ditch the impact?

 

... and swap in the S4 ECU, and all the s4 sensors or modify the harness to accept everything.

 

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That with an air hammer, a 3/8" driver bit holder and whatever allen size you need ought to do it.

 

it's a 12mm allen, a large bolt but happens to have an allen head much like some head bolts in piston engine cars. with my Mac/IR 1/2" impact it doesn't even phase the bolt, the same one i use all day everyday to remove and install e-shaft main bolts with.

it may just be this unit, it's as if it has red loctite and is now a part of the assembly. the bolt runs down the center of all 4 modulators to hold them all in place, and of course the most important to get out. i contemplated using a little heat at the threaded end but that may damage the modulators, i suppose i could try a 3' cheater bar.

 

I love the "berate the entire community in an all out attention ***** fit" strategy....but i guess it worked as you are almost to page 3 now on your thread....carry on

 

considering it is one of like 3 active topics, gotta have someplace to go off topic on.

perhaps it is a note that i should work more on RX8 products or the 4 rotor turn key kit car project. but the strange thing is even though it's dead on this forum i still have plenty of work on the 7's.

 

i think what we did was have the unit in the car, and use a big cheater bar.

 

it would have to be in a vice, the FC ABS units are mounted by 3 rubber grommet plugs which it would slip out of and just begin to spin the whole unit under that kind of force.

 

Former DSM owner here. The ECUs and Auto Trans controllers had a tendency to fail due to cheap solder and electric components, so I've rebuilt a few.

You can replace electrical components so long as it doesn't affect the memory, just gotta find the correct components, which is the hardest part imo.

 

i dunno, remember we pulled apart the unit, measured the O rings, replaced them (there are like 44!), put it back, had it running for half a decade and lost all the O ring dimensions, already!

pretty sure we broke that bolt loose with the unit in the car, but a vice should be ok too

 

well this one leaks about a pint a day from the modulator o-rings(empties out the whole reservoir), if i can seal this one up then i should be on the right track.

 

once you get the bolt out, its really simple, and kind of neat in there.