patrick2377

bought a t2, but with a small problem: Cuts out when holding consistent throttle or under wide open. I assumed this was the TPS. This brings me to question number one:

1. Does the above describe a broken tps?

I drove the car for about a week, moderately, and was driving up a hill the other day at or around 55 when I noticed it wasn't pulling as hard as it had. Then I got to a stoplight and the car was shaking like mad. Having blown an NA car up, which did the exact same thing I got scared and headed straight home expecting it never to start. (Imagine explaining this to your wife: $4k on a car you promised to run forever and it won't start 6 days later) I waited for it to cool, attempted to start it, and sure enough....started right up but with a shake all the way to 3k rpms. Thought it was a fluke, waited a whole day and same deal. Drove it, still drives virtually fine, pulls about like an NA. All vacuum lines seem the same as they have been for the past six days. So second question:

2. Is there anybody who has had this experience, and if so will you tell me what the deal is?

I don't really want to pay for a compression check, and I am really desperate to get this thing right. I love it, pined after for years and now I can't drive it.

I will digress slightly to third issue. I am getting only 11-15 mpg and am wondering if this is typical for t2's. This is the average for both highway and in town, driving moderately. So the third and final question:

3. What kind of gas mileage do you get in your t2?

A sneaky post script question:

If I need a new engine, should I go with a s5 and why?

Forgive the ignorance here just new to forced induction rexes, and need some help....

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Dont pay for a compression test... do the ghetto one.

Pull one set of plugs, and put your hand by the holes. 3 even pulses = possible good motor.

Repeat on other rotor. If test = good, may start looking for a bad coil.

YakATK

Thats TERRIBLE gas mileage if the car is stock. I get about 14-15mpg depending on how I drive it on my setup. You should be around 18-20mpg on a stock TII? Not totally sure on that though.

If you gotta go with a new engine then an S5 engine will create more TQ cause its higher compression, but you can run more boost on a S4 engine. So its up to you really. They both have their perks. I'd say if your gonna be happy with like 10psi boost levels go for an S5 engine if it comes down to that. But if you really wanna boost the **** out of your engine then go S4, easier in the long run.

later
-Justin

YakATK

Thats TERRIBLE gas mileage if the car is stock. I get about 14-15mpg depending on how I drive it on my setup. You should be around 18-20mpg on a stock TII? Not totally sure on that though.

If you gotta go with a new engine then an S5 engine will create more TQ cause its higher compression, but you can run more boost on a S4 engine. So its up to you really. They both have their perks. I'd say if your gonna be happy with like 10psi boost levels go for an S5 engine if it comes down to that. But if you really wanna boost the **** out of your engine then go S4, easier in the long run.

later
-Justin

patrick2377

the car is stock, and it smells rich but no sign of black smoke or anything that makes me believe it is dumping fuel in at that level, i ask because 11 in town is a high estimate

Amur_

If you haven't been to this site yet, GO!


http://fc3spro.com/main.html


It's RETed's and it's all about the s4 TII.

patrick2377

well I was pretty sure that the tps was bad, thanks for the input Amur...his site is concise yet informative...

This is like the 6 or 7 rex I have owned, and am used to the electronic hangups, but really need to know whats up with the bad idle, I haven't seen the tps cause what I am talking about... the shaking...

So new question after a few hours of searches:

Has anyone had their car shake like mad at idle and it not be the motor?

Amur_

You're welcome.


Shaking? Only when I've forgotten to plug something in under the hood.


Have you looked around in there to see that everything's plugged in, especially vac lines? Have you searched for vac leaks? You may have a major one somewhere. The last TII I worked on (make that the ONLY TII ) had a big chunk missing out of the side of the TID. The owner had never noticed it.


Go spend the $20 and grab a compression tester, if only to get that question out of the way right now and save yourself from throwing good money after bad...

patrick2377

a $20 dollar compression tester will work with a rotary, or are you talking about looking for 3 bumps equal, searching for more info on this, but any quick tip here would be great, what should numbers look like if I can use this thing...

Amur_

An ordinary compression tester, yup. The thing is, ordinary ones are designed to 'catch' the pulses. The needle in the gauge will stop and stay at the highest reading. You don't want that. So while the motor is being cranked by your assistant, find the little button (it'll either be on the side of the gauge or beneath it on the side of the tubing) and push it in and hold it in. This will let the needle swing freely, which is what you want.

Mazda says that about 85psi is a healthy rotary. 65-70psi is cause for concern. But the most important thing here is that you get three even pulses from both rotors. If you do the test and the needle swings clean up to 95 over and over and over and over again, for both rotors - you're laughing! If it goes 45-95-95 on one rotor or the other, you've got a problem.
The '86 Factory Service Manual also states that there shouldn't be a difference greater than about 21 psi between rotors. So if she's blowing 95s on the front and 87s on the rear, don't sweat it.


The 'put your hand by the holes' test is okay in a pinch, but I'd prefer to do it properly and be sure...

patrick2377

cool, thanks again...