finally freakin idles... but no power after 2nd gear????
#1
1.3L is not that small
Thread Starter
finally freakin idles... but no power after 2nd gear????
i got my car to idle correctly now because i adjusted the linkage that tells the throttle body to stop (did TB mod and intake and somebody said thats what worked for them cause their idle was **** also and it seems to work for me)... i set the idle to 750 approx rpm's and reset my TPS to 1.0 volt... so after driving a few times and getting those to set to spec i go into second and the car just does not go anywhere until i back off... i did not look at the mph when it was doing this... in N the car revs nicely in all the power bands though i did not rev it too high cause im just paranoid right now after i got it running... so if it idles rock solid at 750rmps but no power driving what could it be? i know blown motors idle terrible right... or just no power but an ok idle? thanks in advance
christopher
christopher
#2
did you check to make sure that the injectors on top of the engine i.e. secondaires ar pluged in, i unpluged mine once when i was testing something thinking that they were the primaries but if they are unplugged your engine will rev fine in neutral becuase of a no load condition but under load i.e. accleatering the power will just stop, not enough fuel plenty of air.
#5
1.3L is not that small
Thread Starter
ok i have the air pump removed (gutted cats), ACV blockoff plate, hoses capped, cruise removed and hose capped, cone filter intake, TB mod (ported and thermowax and other thing removed)... thats all ... btw its a n/a... would it have anything to do with the emmision (air pump and crap) removal?
#6
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automatic? if its an auto, theres a vac line on the tb that helps determine the tranny when to ****. I went through 2 autos in two years... I wouldn't be suprised if its blown. Does it just rev when its in second, does it slip out to first?
or... if this a manual? Didn't really think manuals slipped gears...
or... if this a manual? Didn't really think manuals slipped gears...
#7
1.3L is not that small
Thread Starter
no its a manual... nothing should be wrong with the tranny though... i can get it into third... what i meant was around the speed and rpm's 2nd ends my car dies..... does that make sense?
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#8
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Is it still doing it? Power just cuts off in 2nd gear? Itdoesn't sound like a tranny problem, rather the engine can't cope with not having power after you let out the clutch in second and spend the stored vacuum/pressure wave. Try blipping the rpm's up before you go into second. It might give it a pressure wave enough to jump above your dead spot.
None the less the dead-spot is a problem. Caused by a vacuum leak someplace? Does it act like it cuts out completely? Might be a iffy TPS that spikes right when you drop into second...
None the less the dead-spot is a problem. Caused by a vacuum leak someplace? Does it act like it cuts out completely? Might be a iffy TPS that spikes right when you drop into second...
#9
1.3L is not that small
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the car just surges back.. so ya cuts out completly.. ive been adjusting the TPS a couple of times trying to find its happy place but it still does not rid me of this problem.... im stuck AGAIN aahhh so close yet so far
#10
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Using test lights or voltage at idle readings will get your idle setting done, but may not show a worn out TPS resistor.
Pull the TPS connector off.
Get an analog (needle type) VOM set to the 1K scale.
Connect it to the pins for the orange & green wires.
Open the throttle enough so you can test the TPS plunger through it's full stroke.
The reason is because as the TPS wears, it can give non-linear or inconsistent signals to the ECU.
You can see this as you work the TPS plunger in & out, the meter needle should swing smoothly from ~0 to ~5K ohms.
A worn out TPS may give 1K ohms at idle, but have a drop out or short further up the scale.
A drop out at mid scale will tell the ECU to idle at that point & give a fuel cut.
I had one go open at the top which made the S5 ECU go nuts, giving random fuel cuts.
Pull the TPS connector off.
Get an analog (needle type) VOM set to the 1K scale.
Connect it to the pins for the orange & green wires.
Open the throttle enough so you can test the TPS plunger through it's full stroke.
The reason is because as the TPS wears, it can give non-linear or inconsistent signals to the ECU.
You can see this as you work the TPS plunger in & out, the meter needle should swing smoothly from ~0 to ~5K ohms.
A worn out TPS may give 1K ohms at idle, but have a drop out or short further up the scale.
A drop out at mid scale will tell the ECU to idle at that point & give a fuel cut.
I had one go open at the top which made the S5 ECU go nuts, giving random fuel cuts.
Last edited by SureShot; 03-24-04 at 08:12 AM.
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